Screws question

[Mike Lyons]

I'm getting close to putting in the final patchbox, buttplate, toe plate, lock and inlay screws.  I've read for hours how to finish the screws etc. and it just confused me more.  I've been using cheap wood screws during the build and applying bar soap to the threads makes them glide easily.  My issue is with the final screws.  They act like they are made of lead.  They are real easy to booger up.  I have a good set of gunsmithing screwdrivers with many sizes.  Is there a trick to putting in the final screws?  Should I case harden them?  I plan to keep the lock plate in the white.  Should the screw heads match or be blues?  Is the answer, take your time?  I guess on a good note,  the original that I'm somewhat copying has horribly boogered up screws.  Maybe I should turn the power drill up to 10 and give them a whirl. 

[Bill Raby]

I harden the screws, polish, then temper to blue. Looks real nice with browned steel or brass. Looks OK against white metal. The color is not very durable, but it is easy enough to blue them again later on. If you harden the screws they don't really get boogered up, but you still have to be careful with them.

[Frank]

Buy some decent screws.

https://www.muzzleloaderbuilderssupply.com/mbs3cart/agora.cgi?cart_id=438107.583&product=Screws-Bolts&Swivels

[stubshaft]

+1 on getting decent screws.

[TommyG]

Never had any trouble with screws from MBS.  They have a decent selection of sizes as well. 

[Goo]

It is a concern, you could call Ryan at Muzzle loader builders supply and ask him about his product he will take the time and by the time you are done you will see the value in supporting his business.   If you dont already have some ask about proper screw drivers for gunsmithing it makes a big difference.

[Mike Lyons]

Thanks everyone. Ill place an order today. 

[Bob Roller]

Quality screws are nearly extinct. Quality screw drivers are seldom if ever
found in current hardware stores.MBS is a fine outfit and well worth patronizing.

Bob Roller

[David R. Pennington]

If you case harden the heads they will have a nice grey color that looks pretty good I think.

[Scota4570]

I got a bunch of screws from Blacksmith Supply.  They are soft.  How to case harden them?  Kasenite is hard to replace, and would be tedious to do individual screws.  Has anyone pack hardened them in mass?  I'm thinking bone meal and a box made from pipe fittings.  Then reheat and quench?   

[jerrywh]

 Even decent screws will bugger up. I case harden all my screws.

[P.W.Berkuta]

I also case harden all my screws and it does not take long . I have purchased my wood screws from either Blacksmith supply or one of the muzzleloading supply houses or Dixon's. I have stocked piled 3 cans of the old formula Kasenit so I'm set there . I hold the screw with forceps - heat - coat - quench in water - temper - color - done. There are not that many screws on a rifle that this process will consume up to no more than an hour to do all of them .   

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

I too use the screws sold by Blacksmith's Supply.  I replace screws that I used during the build with new ones that have been run in, polished, and case hardened.  I burnish the hardened screws with a wire wheel in my drill press...yields a pleasing matte grey.  The compound I use is called "Hard and Tuff".  It is green in colour.  I received the can from a millwright (now deceased) in the 70's and have enough to last for the rest of my days.  My grandson will inherit it I suppose.
I use bees wax on the threads and a bit that fits the slot exactly.  Even so, one has to run the screw driver perfectly in line with the axis of the screw, or it will slip out and ruin the screw.  Hardened screws are definitely the way to go.  Be careful with L & R lock screws though..they are tool steel of some kind, and already hardened and tempered.