Hard to load

[JB]

Whats the best way to apply the lube?  Just soak the Strip of material then ring it out?  My material will be in strips- as I want to cut them at the muzzle.  Then just toss the strip in a container in my bag?

JB

[Bob Roller]

IF THAT IS A European .50 THE BORE WILL BE .492 OR 12.5mm and that may be the problem,
incompatible dimensions.Have some one that knows how to use a telescoping gauge (snap gauge)
and get a correct dimension.

Bob Roller

[JB]

IF THAT IS A European .50 THE BORE WILL BE .492 OR 12.5mm and that may be the problem,
incompatible dimensions.Have some one that knows how to use a telescoping gauge (snap gauge)
and get a correct dimension.

Bob Roller

This is a Pedersoli pennsylvania Flint lock .50 cal.

[Semisane]

Dry patch - dirty bore - stuck rod - nasty chore!

[bgf]

Bob Roller has the right idea, I think.  I've seen several that seemed tight and/or have shallow grooves.  .480 balls are available, .485, maybe not.  I would try .480 with thicker patch if all the other suggestions don't pan out.  490 with a thin patch is also worth trying, but it needs to be tough stuff.

[little joe]

Some years back there was a test did and put in Muzzleblasts tap water, spit and if you are bold urine.None of the slick snotty stuff placed very high.Urine, I got a bold buddy.

[bgf]

Some years back there was a test did and put in Muzzleblasts tap water, spit and if you are bold urine.None of the slick snotty stuff placed very high.Urine, I got a bold buddy.

Been using tap water for years now, because I run out of spit .

Urine, no, but next time someone picks up one of my patches at a chunk match, maybe I'll talk about it just to see what happens..."Doesn't that patch look good!  Haven't had any burns or tearing since I switched from water to urine...".

[Waksupi]

Make your own Moose Milk. Ballistol is usually pretty available. One part Ballistol to 7-10 parts water.
I'm still working on a gallon of water soluble oil I got years ago at NAPA. With my mixture, that equals around 8 gallons of lube, if you don't count the amount I use for lube when drilling metals.

[Sharpsman]

BOTH elbows down atop the bench, chest squarely against the rear of the bench, buttstock/comb solidly into the shoulder and aside the neck, forward hand at forearm resting atop a rolled up shooting mat delivers a totally static hold!!

Untitled by Sharps Man, on Flickr

Untitled by Sharps Man, on Flickr

Untitled by Sharps Man, on Flickr

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

To apply liquid lube, soak the material in the liquid until saturated, then gently squeeze out the excess back into the vessel.  Your patch material should be very wet, not just damp.  When you start a ball at the muzzle, the lube should squirt in every direction.

Use your thumb and some 320 - 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper to polish your muzzle.  You need to break the sharp corners on both sides of the crown.

Use a Vernier's calipers to measure patch material.  A micrometer has too large an anvil and will give you a reading indicating thicker material than actual.  Think about how the rifling squeezes the material between it and the ball...that's the effect you want to measure.  And squeeze the calipers as hard as you can with your thumb and forefinger to get it as squashed as you can...then take the reading.

[JB]

To apply liquid lube, soak the material in the liquid until saturated, then gently squeeze out the excess back into the vessel.  Your patch material should be very wet, not just damp.  When you start a ball at the muzzle, the lube should squirt in every direction.

Use your thumb and some 320 - 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper to polish your muzzle.  You need to break the sharp corners on both sides of the crown.

Use a Vernier's calipers to measure patch material.  A micrometer has too large an anvil and will give you a reading indicating thicker material than actual.  Think about how the rifling squeezes the material between it and the ball...that's the effect you want to measure.  And squeeze the calipers as hard as you can with your thumb and forefinger to get it as squashed as you can...then take the reading.

Thank you.  Thanks for the information.

[moleeyes36]

I also agree with Smallpatch, go to a liquid lube or spit patch. I personally like Mr Flintlock. The other thing to remember is to wash your patch material at least twice before using it. It comes loaded with starch and other things. Washing will make it a lot softer and absorb lube better.
Mark

In addition to washing it as Mark says, don't use any fabric softener in the wash or in dryer (i.e. dryer sheets) or the patches will resist absorbing the lube.

Mole Eyes

[satwel]

Go to a fabric store and buy a half yard of Pocket Drill. It's sturdy stuff and thinner than that pillow tick you're using.

This. I have used the Pocket Drill from Joanne Fabrics for years. It is the best patch material I have ever tried. Wash it first to remove the sizing. I lube it with jojoba oil. At shooting matches, where I fire immediately after loading, I've also had success using spit. Buy at least a yard. Once you discover how easy it loads you'll be shooting a lot more.

[Leatherbark]

Mr. Roller hit the nail on the head.  The Pedersoli 50's have a tight bore. I've had two over the years and a .490 ball and standard patching is a bear to start with any lube. But once started it will go down Ok with a wood rammer but not the wood rammer Pedersoli provides that's for sure. Plus a liquid lube really helps.  An American made 50 cal. with a true .500 bore and .524 groove like a green mountain is a breeze to load with a .490 ball and a .015 patch.  The Pedersoli bore might be sized correctly but the problem might be that since that Pedersoli only has .005 inch grooves there isn't a whole lot of space for a patch to squeeze into.   A .480 ball and a thicker is what is needed with the Pedersoli.

Bob

[JB]

Mr. Roller hit the nail on the head.  The Pedersoli 50's have a tight bore. I've had two over the years and a .490 ball and standard patching is a bear to start with any lube. But once started it will go down Ok with a wood rammer but not the wood rammer Pedersoli provides that's for sure. Plus a liquid lube really helps.  An American made 50 cal. with a true .500 bore and .524 groove like a green mountain is a breeze to load with a .490 ball and a .015 patch.  The Pedersoli bore might be sized correctly but the problem might be that since that Pedersoli only has .005 inch grooves there isn't a whole lot of space for a patch to squeeze into.   A .480 ball and a thicker is what is needed with the Pedersoli.

Bob

Thank you.  I ordered some of those .480 balls last week.  I hope to try them this week some time.  I hope your right.

JB

[EC121]

I use the .480 balls with a .022" awning canvas patch in my .50cal. Rice barrels.  Loads easy and fills up the deep rifling.  With the rounded muzzle the patches don't cut.

[hanshi]

My advice, for what it's worth, is to ditch the Bore Butter, polish the muzzle crown and use either Hoppes #9 BP lube (easiest) or mink oil (excellent as well).  My load is a .490" home cast ball, .024" canvas and either Hoppes or mink oil.  The crowns are smooth and the combo seats more easily than with thinner patch material.

[JB]

Well - I used some.480 balls and some .018 patches today.  This combo works great.  Loads easy and seams to be more accurate as well.  It was fun to shoot, and didn't hurt my hand to load.  I shot it about 25 times and was able to use the wooden ram rod that came with the gun.  For lube, I like my spit the best, but also used bore butter and neats foot.

Thanks everyone for all of the advise.
jb

[Booner]

What I have done to adjust my patch thickness is to add a few zig zag rolling papers to the patch.
Place the patch over the bore, add one, two, or three rolling papers on top and then place the ball on top of all this.
I found that 2 zig-zag papers really tightened up my groups at 50 yards.

I do get a strange look from the guys a 7-11 when I ask for rolling papers.

[Daryl]

The very first thing needing attention is the crown just as Taylor noted.
As Hanshi wrote, ditch the lip balm.(bore butter w/camphor)).
Hit the starter ONCE.If the patched ball does not go into the muzzle with one blow, either hit it harder or or "fix" the crown. Patches should not be cut by the crown.
You should be able to load a patched.005" undersize ball with a .0220" patch - easily - some of our women proper .018" patches.

[Mike from OK]

JB, how many shots have you made with that rifle?

I ask because I also shoot a Pedersoli. I bought it new and the new barrel had some noticeable drag during loading.

Try using an easier loading patch/ball combo and shoot the snot out of it for a while... 100 shots or more. I did this with mine and noticed it getting easier to load as the jagged sharp edges of the rifling wore in.

Mike

[JB]

JB, how many shots have you made with that rifle?

I ask because I also shoot a Pedersoli. I bought it new and the new barrel had some noticeable drag during loading.

Try using an easier loading patch/ball combo and shoot the snot out of it for a while... 100 shots or more. I did this with mine and noticed it getting easier to load as the jagged sharp edges of the rifling wore in.

Mike

I've shot it again today.  I've got about 100 -150ish shots so far.  I'm now using a .480 ball and a .018 and she is working great now.  Easy to load and seams just as accurate, and now I can load with the wooden ram rod that it came with.  Someone else suggested the smaller balls and they work good.  The.490 balls still load very hard, even with .015 patches.

This Sunday, I'm going to the Toledo muzzle loaders club shoot.  I hope to meet some guys and maybe going to join the club.  I look forward to learning more about these flint locks.  I really enjoy them.
 
Thanks for the advise.
JB

[Mike from OK]

Glad you're having an easier time loading now.

Enjoy the shoot!

Mike