Cold forging a simple trigger

[bama]

Well once again the shop monster has eaten another of my handmade parts so I got the opportunity to make it again. This is the second trigger I have had to make for this rifle. So, I thought I would take pictures of the different stages of fabrication. All forming was done cold, without heat. The material I am using is 22 gauge mild steel sheet.

I started with roughly 1 1/2" square of material. I was a little short on pin height and had to stretch the pin location a little to be able to drill a hole where I needed so a square 1 3/4" would probably be better.

The pictures can tell the rest of the story. I hope you enjoy the pictures more than I did making a second trigger.

[Pukka Bundook]

Don't lose it, Bama.  :-)

Good job.

[M. E. Pering]

Interesting, Bama... I have never tried this cold, but I have thought about it.  But I was afraid the metal might crack once thinned, especially since my triggers tend to be a bit on the wide side.  Good to see it can be done cold.

[Pennsylvania Dutchman]

That looks nice, Bama. Did you maybe use 12 gauge steel? As 22 gauge is only .029" thick. Here is one I cold forged from 14 gauge(.075") pickled and oiled mild steel. The shoe finished at 11/32" wide.





Mark

[flehto]

I cold forge triggers nearly the same as shown in the pics. ...and it's a lot of fun. I use a 3/8 dia hardened rod which is struck w/ a medium weight hammer. The steel is .100 thick and if the steel is mainly struck over the blade, a width of nearly 3/8" is possible which is then filed to a width of 5/16" when shaping the trigger shoe. I make the length of the shoe plenty long and then bend the curl using a torch to produce a dull red color.....Fred

 

[bama]

Duthy & Flehto those are some very nice triggers and thanks for showing them.

Here is a picture of the trigger installed.

This trigger is a copy of the trigger on the John Jacob Sheetz, Battle of New Orleans rifle. Not a real fancy trigger but a nice functional one. Oh, Dutch I did make a mistake on the gauge, the mild steel sheet I used measured .0725 thick, which is a hair over a 1/16". Thanks for catching that. I do have some 22 gauge plate in the shop that I use for making ram rod pipes.

[Davemuzz]

Nice post guys. I'm going to make a new trigger for my flintlock pistol after the Pa. flintlock season. I'm re-doing my first build, which is my pistol. After buying and reading "build books", plus following information on forums, I came to realize how bulky my pistol actually was.

The trigger pull on my original build was about 4,000-lbs. This much because I (not knowing any better) installed the trigger with the pin drilled thru the "hump" on the trigger plate. Consequently, that left the pivot point a good 1/2" or better away from the sear bar. Not the best setup.

So, about a month ago, I drilled a pivot point into the stock and located the pivot point about 1/4" away. Trigger pull....and accuracy were then a delight. However, I got two ugly holes drilled thru the existing trigger....and I know it can all be much better!!

[Pennsylvania Dutchman]

Flehto and Bama, Those finished triggers and rifles look very nice!
Mark

[SingleMalt]

I've made my triggers pretty much the same way but used a ball peen hammer to spread it.  Do you find it easier using a cross peen hammer?

[bama]

SingleMalt, I like using the cross peen, I seem to be able to control it better and get a wider spread on the shoe of the trigger. I see nothing wrong with using the ball peen though and if it works for you then hey who am I to say it's wrong. That is one of the things I have found out about different builders, each has their own way of doing the same job. I have had several of those, why didn't I think of that moments when watching another builder work.

Like Fred saying he uses a hardened rod and hammer to make his shoe. He made a dandy looking trigger so I'd say that might be a method worth trying. Dutchy didn't say so I don't know what he uses but I bet it is something along these same lines.

M. E. Pering, yes you can fatigue the metal to the point of cracking. This mild steel sheet is pretty forgiving to a point but it will crack if you try to push it to far.

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

This Verner trigger is cold forged from sheet that was about 3/32" thick.  The shoe is about 3/8" wide and it takes an amazing length to get that pig tail curl.  I use a heavy machinist's vise and a ball peen hammer.

[rich pierce]

I learned from somebody here to use an anvil and no vise. I like that way better.

[t.caster]

Hmm, I made one myself 2 days ago, using my 6" vice and ball peen hammer. It turned good for my first one, so I'll be making my own from now on. Made my own ramrod pipes to for my current barn gun build.

[Pennsylvania Dutchman]

I used this hammer that I reshaped from an old bricklayers hammer. I used light blows, as when riveting, for control. I did heat the end to make the curl and wrapped it around a 3/32" dowel pin to round it.








Mark

[longcruise]

I've made some pretty poor triggers from 1/8" bar stock and it never occurred to me that thinner sheet steel would be a better choice.

Thanks to all for who chimed in with their tips.

[oldtravler61]

  Thanks Kim for showing. Much appreciated...! Oldtravler

[bama]

Taylor, where's your picture buddy, inquiring minds want to know 

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

Sorry Bama.  I was just now perusing this thread and saw that I omitted the images.  So I just added them to my post.

[longcruise]

That's a pretty trigger.

[Greg Pennell]

Good idea with the hammer, Mark. I have an extra brick hammer that is unused...I think it’ll make a dandy light cross peen.

Greg

[Daryl]

That's MY rifle & the trigger feels every bit as good as it looks.

[yip]

 oh yummy, that looks fine