Percussion lock on a 45cal. 13/16 barrel.

[patchbox]

Hi Guys: Im a newby building my first rifle and I wonder what your thoughts are as to the safety of a percussion lock with a 45 cal. in a 13/16 barrel ? I plan to build it as a flinter but was considering an inter changable lock system. any advise you could give me would be greatly appreciated .

[Don Getz]

My recommendation would be....DONT.     In order to do an interchangeable system, you will have to install a drum into the barrel.   In a 45 cal. barrel,  13/16" straight, you only have about .170 barrel wall......this is not enough to safely do it.
Besides, in an interchangeable system, you will be removing and changeing parts....they will eventually become worn and
unsafe.   I would recommend you build it as a flintlock, save some money by not buying that percussion lock, and buy a
Chambers small siler flint lock, this would be the best way to go...........Don

[t.caster]

I agree with Don, as usual. I've done what you are contemplating with same barrel size on my first rifle. Not that safe, although I never had any safety issues, let common sense rule here. Now that I think of it....it was hard to keep the nipple in proper alignment with the hammer, due to loose threads! Causing numerous misfires.
BAD SITUATION!
You NEED to build TWO rifles.

[chapmans]

Patchbox,
  It could be done safely if you were to use a longer breechplug with a 3/16" counterbore in the center of the breechplug then screw the drum through the barrel and breech plug to the counterbore, this is the way the CVA Mt. Rifle breeches were made, they are prone to fouling but if cared for are realiable. The other option is a mule ear lock but it would have to be custom made, all you have to do to convert is remove the flintlock and touch hole liner, replace liner with a nipple and install mule ear lock. Just my opinion.
   Regards, Steve Chapman

[Roger Fisher]

Ok::  I'll stick my big schnoze in here also.....   The boys are right on with their recs. Now understand me - I have 'a few' such 13/16th Oct in percussion and used them a lot; but never used heavy charges (over 80 3f) Unless I forgot myself shich happens once in a while....   Over the years I decided to go with the 15/16th and felt better about it....!

Been down the road of an interchangeable rifle cap to flint.  Fitted two silers to her and she was going to be my secret weapon (Win both aggs)

Best laid plans did not work out.  When sighted in with the percussion system then convert to the flint she was v inaccurate.  I don't recall if I worked with her to find out what powder charge etc she needed in flint or not.  I simply left her in percussion mode and went to another rifle....!   Changing the locks over is a mild pain in the butt also (read lazy) and I simply go to another rifle.  If you do this, let us know how accururate she turns out to be in each mode....

[Dale Halterman]

I, too, have a perc rifle on a 45 cal 13/16" straight barrel with a drum and nipple, but I only use it for shooting holes in paper with a light charge, 40grs.

I wouldn't do what you are thinking because the threads would eventually wear and the nipple would get out of alignment.

Build the flintlock first, then build a percussion. You won't regret it.

Dale H

[northmn]

I never had a safety problem with a percussion 45 in 13/16 and a drum, but I took care in fitting and soldered it in place.  I tend to agree that converting could cause problems.  You would have to use a 5/16" min vent liner for the flint.  The 1/4 inch drums were notorious for causing problems due to breakage and were partly responsible for giving drums a bad name.  I always preferred the 3/8 X 24 threaded drums.  You can get a vent liner in this diameter also.  But I really do not recommend the interchageable system and am only commenting in case one insists on doing so.

DP

[erdillonjr]

Coverting a 13/16 from flint to percussion is a bad idea. If you want to make a switch barrel gun use two barrels. A 7/8 50 cal works great for this. I have a 13/16 45 cal percussion and never had a problem with it. 70 grains of 3F works great. Ed

[t.caster]

I forgot to mention the accuracy part of the equation. While the percussion was a 10x shooter, when converted to flint, it did not shoot to the same point of aim!
They would go 9, 8, 7 ring from 2 to 4 o'clock, with the same load. Maybe that was just ME, but at that point I knew a seperate flinter was in my future. And the rest is history.

[Roger Fisher]

I forgot to mention the accuracy part of the equation. While the percussion was a 10x shooter, when converted to flint, it did not shoot to the same point of aim!
They would go 9, 8, 7 ring from 2 to 4 o'clock, with the same load. Maybe that was just ME, but at that point I knew a seperate flinter was in my future. And the rest is history.

Yes, T, I had the same results and the same fix

[patchbox]

Thank you all for the advice. You prevented me from making a mistake. I hope some day my grandson will be shooting this rifle and safety is first and formost. I will use a small Siler flint lock as was suggested. Then I will build the other rifle as you suggested.
                                                     Thanks again.......Chuck

[Bill of the 45th]

LIKE THAT WILL BE YOUR ONLY BUILD. You're on a slippery slope my friend, this is only the beginning of the malady. Just give into the darkside, and all will be well.  Stick to rock locks, them Cussin guns are just a passing fancy.

Bill

[RobertS]

Why a small siler flintlock, rather than a large one?  I have the same barrel, and am starting my first build with a precarved stock, and I have a small and a large siler lock and have been agonizing over which I should use.   Anything you can tell me will be helpful and appreciated!

[stuart cee dub]

Hi Robert ,
Sometimes the smaller barrels have problems with the bigger locks .
Specifically the main spring on a large Siler can intrude into the ramrod channel.
Learned this the hard way.
Elsewhere check the thread on what are the ''best locks and triggers'' .
Small Silers rock locks turn out to be pretty darn fast which surprised me .
I started thinking about quick flinters I have seen and they were all small silers... Hmmmm.
It was eye opening.
There are little ohio patent breeches from TOTW you could use if you wanted a cap lock that would solve much of the safely issues.
But the thin staight profiled barreled flinter you are contemplating will make a gun that is not too nose heavy. Only a few long straight barrel and caliber combinations actually work well.
The rest become chunk guns
 
Regards
Cee Dub 

[northmn]

Check the thread concerning best locks and triggers.  As long as I can remember folks have been saying the small Siler is faster than the bigger one.

DP

[patchbox]

Hi Roberts: I chose the small lock for the 13/16"barrel after reading Dixons' book in which he states that "The size of the barrel and the lock should be in proportion, a barrel flat of 7/8" or larger should have a standard or large lock. If a 13/16" barrel is used a small lock can be used.It is important that the lock be proprtional in size with the barrel and stock."
         Are you going with a precarved stock? I am useing one with the lock mortis already cut out. I found that I needed to inlet the lock before I inletted the breach in order to get the touch hole to center on the pan. Lots of luck to you and keep us posted on your progress,,,Regards...Chuck.