Non-builder finish question

[hatman]

Hi all,

I have a really nice custom flintlock that even the builder said it didn't have the very best finish (to reduce cost/price).
The link below reasonably shows the current finish on this rifle although the shine around the wrist is flatter than the picture.



It seems just a bit 'flat' to me.
I've tried Shiloh Gun Glow and Renaissance Wax to find a nice 'sheen', but it still seems a little flat.
So here's my question or two:

What product could I use to add a little bit more sheen without being shiny?
Before I applied any recommended product do I need to remove the remnants of Gun Glow and the wax and with what?

Or maybe I should just be happy with it as is.

Thanks guys.                   

[Mark Elliott]

I think we really need to know how it was finished to begin with.   You are going to need more finish, and the wax will have to be striped off first.  That may take off some or all of the original finish.   Basically,  I think it would need to be refinished to some extent.   I don't think you can just apply some product to it to get what you want.   A good finish generally takes time and work, mainly in the prep before the stain ever goes on.

[EC121]

I had a rifle like that.  It was lacking a little in the finish department.  I put one coat of well rubbed in Tru-Oil (OH no!  I hear sirens coming.  Must be the HC police.    I'm not giving up my Tru-Oil!  They'll never take me alive!!! ) on it, and that was enough to add a little sheen and some sealing of the finish.  Try a small spot on the stock. 

[Mike Brooks]

Try Bri Wax. Dark Brown or Ebony.

[Davemuzz]

I was a true-oil fan.....until I met up with the Chambers products. Now True-oil is....well.....for those that don't know.

 

[EC121]

I was a true-oil fan.....until I met up with the Chambers products. Now True-oil is....well.....for those that don't know.

 

Or...know...and...really...just...don't...care.

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

TruOil wears badly.  I don't use it anymore either.  I prefer Circa 1850 Tung Oil Finish.

The op though, likely needs to start with bare wood.  Likely, the wood was not prep'd sufficiently, and so it will need scraping/sanding to remove fuzz, then re-stained, and finally, finish applied over many applications and rubbed out.

But a dose of BriWax allowed to dry well and buffed should give him the look he's after.  If it's too shiny, handling will dull it back.

[Flint62Smoothie]

https://briwax.com/product/briwax-original/
M

[shortbarrel]

I would leave the finish as is.

[rfd]

i think the OP is in for a LOT of effort that will require some amount of luck to boot if he wishes to go down the refinish path of perhaps no return.  lots will depend on his expertise, and since he started this thread, what's needed ain't there.

subjectively to each their own, but i rather like a darkish working man's gun and would leave it be in its own beauty.

[hatman]

Thanks for all the feedback guys.

I don't have the expertise to do a serious refinish, but I think I'll buy some BriWax and experiment with it on some other wood and go from there.

[Mike Brooks]

Thanks for all the feedback guys.

I don't have the expertise to do a serious refinish, but I think I'll buy some BriWax and experiment with it on some other wood and go from there.

Go ahead and put the Bri Wax right on the gun, you're not going to hurt it.

[Mr. Bubbles]

Mineral spirits will dissolve wax off the stock.  For re-finishing in the winter time, try Tried & True Varnish oil, which is a polymerized linseed oil varnish.  Rubbed super duper thin, each coat will cure in a day or less.  In the high humidity of the summer, it may take a week or more between coats.  The trick is to put it on thinly, wait an hour or so, and then go back over it to rub off what's left.  The result is a super duper thin coat.  Others prefer products like Permalyn, cut back 50:50.  About the same viscosity as water that way.  Much faster drying too.

[frogwalking]

(Fair warning:  Armature opinion!)  Any type of hard finish such as Tru-Oil or even Chambers oil caries with it the problem of how to put it on the wood, but keep it off the metal furniture.  I highly recommend the wax that has been suggested, which completely avoids this problem..  If you truly want a more shiny finish that really looks good, you will need to send it to one of the professional builders on this site.  Then, you will not only be looking at a cost of several hundred dollars, but shipping a longrifle itself is costly and there is always a (significant) risk of damage.

[moleeyes36]

...I prefer Circa 1850 Tung Oil Finish...


Taylor, you've mentioned your preference for this product a few times in the past.  Since I've never seen a picture of one of your guns that wasn't more appealing than a cold beer on a hot Florida summer day, I just ordered some from the maker, Swing Paints.  The product is very reasonably priced, but the shipping from Canada is stiff.  Still, $34 US, including shipping, isn't bad for a quart.

Mole Eyes

[hatman]

Just another thanks to all for the feedback.
I received my dark brown Bri-Wax today and emboldened by Mike Brooks' "just do it" recommendation, I did.
After three applications I'm really happy with the 'needed' extra sheen. 

I'm very grateful for this forum.