Author Topic: York County Kit Trigger Install  (Read 1253 times)

Online JLayne

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York County Kit Trigger Install
« on: February 07, 2019, 02:13:04 PM »
I am a first timer working on a Chambers York County Kit and am working on getting the trigger installed. It has a simple trigger that pivots on a 1/16" pin that runs through the lock mortice, coming out  underneath the side plate on the opposite side of the stock. I got the trigger pinned in the mortice and then moved on to getting it adjusted. That's when the wheels came off the wagon. 

Since the trigger bar filled up the hole in the mortice through which the sear bar passes, I thought it would be a good idea to first put some inletting black on the tip of the sear. I then positioned the lock in the mortice, allowing the black on the tip of the sear to mark the trigger bar. After that, I took a hack saw and cut the trigger bar just below the black mark and reinstalled the trigger and lock. Long story short, the trigger worked, but the pull ended up being far too long with a lot of free play and too light for my preference (less than 2 lbs. of pull).  I've since ordered a new trigger. Does anybody have any advice or know of any tutorials on how to properly adjust such a trigger on the second go-around? 

Thanks,
Jay

Offline TommyG

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Re: York County Kit Trigger Install
« Reply #1 on: February 07, 2019, 08:46:51 PM »
I don't know how others do it, but this is what works for me.  I make a trigger template out of thin card stock.  I fill the sear hole with some "silly putty", you could probably use another putty of sorts, but this stuff works pretty good as it is easy to remove when done.  I then insert the lock into position.  Remove the lock and the putty leaves a nice impression as to where the sear and sear arm are located.  I then lay my template on the side of lock panel and pencil in the shape to engage the sear.  Cut the template and make sure all is good, transfer that to the actual trigger and shape.  I'll use this to locate the pivot hole as well.  I put the hole on the same plane as the sear arm (which you will see with the impression), about 1/4 to 5/16 from the contact point of the sear.  If you want a harder pull, you can move this pivot location a bit further away.  Also, err on the larger side when cutting the trigger height, then when installing you can file to final dimension(or sneak up on the final dimension) to eliminate the freeplay.