Case hardening a lock.

[KILTED COWBOY]

Never case hardened a lock before.
On another thread some folks said that they use phosphoric acid to do the deed.
Is that the only way to do it at home with not a lot of special equipment?
Also what parts get this treatment? I assume the lock plate and hammer.
What about the face of the frizzen ? The springs , and pan.
Thanks

[rich pierce]

The phosphoric acid was to give a dull gray finish. It does not harden the steel.

You can choose to case harden the whole lockplate and hammer and bridle and screws if you wish. There are many posts on color case hardening. For me the cock does not need hardening. I have Kasenit from way back but nowadays it’s not sold and folks use Cherry Red hardening compound. I just harden the tumbler hole in the lockplate and bridle. Read up on it.

[KILTED COWBOY]

Thanks will do.

[ScottH]

Unless you bought a lock kit, all the parts that should be hardened, should have already come hardened.
Polishing the lock should not take off enough metal to get through the case hardening from the factory.

[G_T]

Unless I'm mistaken, they are not usually case hardened, but through-hardened to some degree. Sometimes that degree might not be exactly what you want though. But any case hardening is up to you!

Gerald

[Dr. Tim-Boone]

Re Chambers Locks (from Jim's website)   

Any lock that we assemble is guaranteed for the life of the original purchaser. Your only cost is the postage to return the unsatisfactory part or lock to us for repair or replacement. The only parts we cannot guarantee are the ones which have been altered or abused. We always welcome your suggestions, comments, or questions.

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Assembled Locks
Jim Chambers Flintlocks, Ltd. is proud to offer precision assembled locks for the discriminating gunbuilder or shooter who desires a lock which is a cut above other available locks. Each lock is carefully assembled from the finest carbon steels available and is heat-treated for long, reliable service. All bearing surfaces are polished. Tumbler axles are lathe-turned to exacting dimensions. All bearing holes are drilled undersize and then reamed for extra smoothness. All locks include a fly in the tumbler for use with set triggers. We offer a money-back guarantee if not 100% satisfied.

[smart dog]

Hi,
Your question requires a bit of unpacking. First, if you are not familiar with case hardening and not set up to do it, don't mess with your lock or you may ruin it.  I believe any heat treating like case hardening will void warranties such as those offered by Chambers and others. That said, I always case harden my lock plates, flint cocks, pans, and frizzens.  I do it because it improves the sparking on my frizzens and prevents the flint cock from peening the bolster of the lock plate. It also enhances corrosion resistance of the plate, flint cock, and pan.  However, I know what I am doing and am set up to do it without risking warping the lock plate or ruining the other parts. My regime significantly improves every commercial lock you can buy so I don't worry about any violation of warranties. Nonetheless, if you are not proficient or lack the set up to properly case harden (which requires a forge, or a gas or electric heat treating oven), I suggest not bothering. The commercial lock without heat treating should perform well enough.

dave   

[David Rase]

Take a few minutes and do a search on case hardening or color case hardening on this forum.  This topic has been discussed various times.  No need for those that have and do know how to case harden to spend time rehashing an old topic that has been covered in the past.   
David

[KILTED COWBOY]

Thanks for the advice smart dog
Thanks for the information from Chambers Dr. Tim-Boone.
Got what I need to move forward. All questions on this issue answered.
Guess I was confused on what case Harding was.

[Pukka Bundook]

Very good advice here K-C.

The lock plates have to be left fairly soft so they can be engraved etc,  so even the very best locks cannot come with hard plates.

Jim C's locks come ready to use and well treated, apart from the plates.  As Dave says, they will work well as is, but are better still if hardened by someone who knows how. (Dave again!)  :-)
I know Jim C. told me he thinks they don't look quite right if not hardened, but better a bit soft than done wrong!

All the best,
R.

[L. Akers]

I can recommend Classic Guns in Crete, Illinois to do any color hardening you want done.  Their turn-around is fast and they guarantee your satisfaction.  In fact they have told me that if I am not satisfied, don't pay the invoice.  BTW, they do their hardening using the pack method--not cyanide.

[rich pierce]

Some parts may fail if case hardened. Top jaw screws, for example, often need tempering. They may be made of carbon steel on some cases.

[David Rase]

Some parts may fail if case hardened. Top jaw screws, for example, often need tempering. They may be made of carbon steel on some cases.

All parts of a lock need tempered after case hardening.
David