LMF rust bluing

[KILTED COWBOY]

Howdy, did a thread search and I know the procedure for rust bluing with the LMF.
The only question I have not been able to find is how long can you wait after the final browning before starting the boiling? Do you need to do if within a few hours or an you wait overnight to do it

[hortonstn]

I would do it fairly quick what ever you do don't oil it until blued

[jm190]

From the LMF directions...here's the link   https://www.trackofthewolf.com/pdfs/lmfbrown/lmf-brown-instructions.pdf

After applying the first coat of brown, set aside to work for a minimum of three hours. The timing is not critical and depends to a large degree on the relative humidity and temperature of the area where you are browning. If the humidity and temperature are high, three hours will be long enough. If the humidity and temperature are lower it may take as long as 24 hours. If you leave any coat of Barrel Brown on for longer than 24 hours, the rusting process may become too vigorous and cause surface pitting. To be on the safe side do not leave any coat on, without scaling, for longer than 24 hours.

After the first coat of Barrel Brown has had a chance to work, a good coat of orange to red rust should appear. It may appear uneven and streaked with a greenish-black color, but that is perfectly normal and should not be cause for alarm. Once a good coat of rust has formed, apply a second coat of solution to the barrel.  The second coat, and all subsequent coats, is applied very sparingly to the barrel surface.  Only enough Barrel Brown should be applied to dampen the surface.  This will minimize the chances of pitting due to too vigorous action, or streaking due to unevenness of application.  Too heavy an application of solution can also remove the existing brown, lengthening the browning process.  After letting the second coat work for 3 to 12 hours, again depending on your application conditions, rub the surface of the barrel with a piece of coarse cloth dipped in hot tap water.  This step removes the surface scale that has built up and evens the brown.  After scrubbing the barrel, flood the surface with hot tap water and dry.  Repeat the cycle of applying Barrel Brown, letting the application work and then scaling the barrel, 4 to 5 times more until the desired color has been achieved.  Note: if you cannot get back to the barrel within 24 hours of applying a coat of brown, do not apply another coat after scaling.  Just scale the barrel and set aside until you are ready to resume browning.
 
Hope this helps...
John

[KILTED COWBOY]

Thank Jm190, yea I get it.
I am also having trouble finding a vessel to boil in.
Don’t want to spend a lot on something that I wouldn’t use much.
Was wondering if I could get a decent result adding boiling water to a PVC tube instead of boiling over a burner? Was going to try to fabricate something out of a rain gutter but can’t find anything.
Also heard some only boil after the last application.
Thanks for the help

[Daryl]

You could go overboard, for results close to perfection.

[KILTED COWBOY]

Yea nice setup if I was planning to go into the business. Just looking to keep it simple and inexpensive.
Still looking for some advice if pouring boiling water in a PVC tube would give good results

[Craig Wilcox]

KC, for most barrels, a 4 length of 1 1/2" galv pipe, with an end cap, works great.  Just heat up a pot of water, hang the barrel in the pipe, and pour the boiling water into it.
So far, I have noticed no reaction from the pipe.

[Richard]

I'm new to this, but from my readings there are as many variations in blueing as there are ways to cook a steak. Then add to this the metal preparation, the degreasing, rusting solution used, humidity, temperature, time, carding method, etc...etc..., all contribute to different results.
That said... I used a 2" PVC with a cap on the end. Suspended the barrel inside and dumped in the boiling water. Produced a nice blue/black. Worked for me.

[KILTED COWBOY]

Thanks northof54.
I got a 3” pipe figured it would hold more boiling water to keep hotter longer.
I like simple when it produces good results.
My first time to rust blue a barrel. I have done many modern rifles with birchwood Casey stuff.
Will attempt this week as I have a couple days off and humidity is high.
Thanks to all who responded to my call for help.
If anyone can think of anything else let me know.

[B.Habermehl]

When I scald my barrels for my boiled Browns/rust blues. I use a well secured pvc drain pipe with a end cap friction fitted to the bottom resting on the floor, with a reducer bell on the top tp act as a funnel. I place the barrel into the pipe and carefully pour boiling water over the barrel till covered. As it leaks down through the hand fitted end cap I keep the water topped off. I’ve used bout two good size pots full of boiling water, per barrel, in the past and have been happy with the rust conversion process. BJH

[Clark Badgett]

I'm one of those guys that seems to run into every problem while building these guns. At least from the finishing and fabricating small parts perspective anyway. I tried the PVC pipe for scalding my barrel to blue it and the breech end to about  2/3rds the length turned the most beautiful black you have ever seen. Unfortunately the muzzle end 1/3rd stayed a nice medium chocolate brown. I just worked it back down to medium gray and cold blued it. It now sports a nice blue with a hint of brown in the sunlight. I liked it so I kept it that way. I'm actually considering making a trough at work. Need to price the materials.

[phatton]

I found that I need a roiling boil to convert a browned barrel to a nice blued finish.  I use a 2 burner propane stove I got from Cabela's for around $120.  I made a tank out of mild steel to hold the barrel.  For just one barrel,  a 3"X3" tank about 6" longer than the barrel will work; although I prefer a 4"X4" tank.  Once I have the barrel evenly and deeply browned and the final carding done; I suspend the barrel in the tank on 2 U shaped pieces of steel wire so that the bottom of the barrel does not touch the bottom of the tank.  I then lite off the propane stove, bring the water (with the barrel in it) to a roiling boil and boil the barrel until it turns black.  I continue to boil the barrel for another 5 minutes.  I then take the barrel out of the boiling water, put it in a PVC pipe with an end cap on it and fill the PVC with oil, I use WD40 for its water displacing qualities.  You want the oil to completely cover the barrel.  I have a plug fitting on the other end of my PVC pipe and like to plug that end so I that when I  knock the pipe over, the barrel and oil stays in the pipe.  I leave the barrel in the oil for at least 24 hours then take it out and rub it down with an ultra fine scratch pad or a piece of OOOO steel wool.  The barrel will be green for about a month. I like to keep a thin coat of vaseline on the barrel until it is fully cured. 

[KILTED COWBOY]

Mission accomplished, barrel is now blued.
Thanks for all the advice.
Did 10 coats of LMF barrel brown, carded but not boiled between coats.
Good humid couple days 3-4 hours between coats.
Put in a 4 inch PVC pipe with 1 end capped hung pipe vertical.
Put barrel in with wooden muzzle plug in bottom to raise it off the bottom.
Filled with boiling distilled water for about 20-30 minuets.
Came out nice for a 1st attempt color is black and even.
Will post photos as soon as I can figure out how .
Thanks again to everyone.

[Don Steele]

Sounds like you got it Cowboy. Thanks to all for the details to make this work. I can see trying this on the next unfinished barrel I’m working with 👍

[jerrywh]

I might be wrong on this but it is my opinion that in order to achieve constant results one needs a regular tank for boiling. Every other method requires some degree of luck. I have three tanks of different lengths.