Fitting a different lock to mortise

[heelerau]

 Gents, look like I will replace the Russ Hamm with a late Ketland. I think this lock is slightly longer and guess there will be a bit of internal work to be done on the mortice.  I don't have any proper chisels for the work.  I have had a look at Tow selection, what do I need please? I have done crude inletting years ago just using regular carpentry chisels. Dont want to stuff this job up.  I fiqure the job will be mostly  slightly enlarging the lockplate part of the mortice.  Thank you gentlemen.

Cheers

Gordon

[Lucky R A]

    Before you start this operation, you want to look at several important considerations other than the lock plate covering the existing lock mortise.  1st locate the middle of the pan on the existing vent hole, now check to see if the lock plate will cover the mortise. 2nd check to see that the sear will engage the trigger at the correct location.  This is very important to have right, or you can end up with a non-functional double set trigger, or a very hard pull on a simple single trigger.  If you don't have the new lock in hand to check these measurements, you can cut out one of Track of the Wolf's full size photos from their catalog.  A measurement from the center of the pan to the sear will help to quickly determine if your proposed lock swap will work.  I think that L & R makes a replacement lock for the Hamm and similar sized locks, you may want to check that.  The Late Ketland lock is a superb lock, but may not be an easy fix for your situation.  If you are set on the Late Ketland, you may have to panel the lock mortise and move the triggers...
Bet I scared the h---- out of you, but better to be sure before you leap...
Ron

[Majorjoel]

As Ron said above,  changing out a lock on an existing rifle with one that wasn't originally designed for it is quite a difficult task!  Gordon, after reviewing your posts and looking at your rifle's pictures, my best advise would be to try and get the Hamm lock that is in your rifle tuned up and refurbished by an expert locksmith. In my opinion, the more a good rifle gets "messed with", it becomes just one more misstep to becoming a wall flower.

[moleeyes36]

    .....I think that L & R makes a replacement lock for the Hamm and similar sized locks, you may want to check that.... 

Gordon,

Here is a link to the L&R replacement locks page.  As Ron suggested, this is worth checking out.  If one of these will replace the Russ Hamm without much hassle it's probably the way to go.  Shoot L&R an email and ask them if one of these locks is a replacement for the Russ Hamm lock.  I used one of  these replacement locks in a TC rifle years ago and had no complaints.

http://www.lr-rpl.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=category&id=36&Itemid=62

Mole Eyes

[Bob Roller]

I have been corresponding with Heelerau on this Hamm lock replacement and used a Chambers late Ketland plate and the full size photo in the TOW catalog and it IS feasible to use this lock.I was concerned with sear placement but he told me that the sear on the Hamm lock was bent back to compensate for a misplaced trigger.
The only reason I was able to do this was because I am making two locks using the late Ketland lock external parts for a customer in Pa.I hope I can get these two done soon.I was diagnosed with age and wear related arthritis in my right wrist.These two factors plus a severe injury 50 years ago are forcing me to cut short my work hours in the shop.The future of shop work is not certain right now as far as bench work goes. I can still make transmission bearings for obsolete units and that is only bonehead lathe work,boring but useful.

Bob Roller

[heelerau]

Gentlemen, thank you for your advice,  I have been speaking with Bob re this job. My initial thought was for the L and R lock replacement, but having experianced the reliability of  Jim Chambers locks have decided to go with the Late Ketland, which also seems to fit the period of this particular rifle.    The scear bar in the Hamm lock is bent quite a ways to the rearl. Jim Chambers has told me how to measure up the lock, ie pan flash hole, scear, size of lock plate.  I will do more measurments when the lock arrives. If it looks like it wont be a go, I will fall back on plan b, the TOW L and R drop in .

cheers

Gordon

[FALout]

Check the main spring length for comparison, could cause problems for front lock bolt since you need to you existing holes

[mjm46@bellsouth.net]

heelerau, I just replaced a Russ Hamm lock on a rifle for a friend. I used a Chambers small siler for the replacement lock. The mechanicals and placement of pan and sear were perfect. The big thing was that I re-paneled the rifle lock panel to get a better fit to the lock. After reshaping and re-inletting the lock plate. A new stain and the work I did is invisible unless you know it's there.

As I said the placement of the pan and sear of the sm. Siler were a perfect match for the old Russ Hamm lock. If you check with Chambers about the dimensional difference between the sm. Siler and Late Ketland. I should give you a better idea if it will work well.

Hope some of this helps.

[heelerau]

Mica, thanks for the information. I did not long after I last posted on this thread purchase an L&R rpl lock which a chap in Michigan tweeked up for me before it was sent down under. With minimal messing around it fitted up nicely, and is a good reliable lock. Have shot a lot of rabbits with it since.