Soldering Ramrod steel ramrod thimble on old halfstock rifle

[KentSmith]

I got a request to see if I can solder a front ramrod thimble on a nice old percussion VA halfstock rifle.  Would post pics but not sure the owner would be ok with that.  Anyway I need to localize the heat to not loosen the barrel rib.  I figure to tin the thimble and the rib then clamp and using a fine torch and flux complete the job.  Should wrapping fore and aft with a wet rag help control the heat along the length of the rib enough? Will use low heat regular lead free solder.

[Curtis]

Instead of using a torch, to help preserve the finish and patina I would first try a steel, brass or copper rod slightly smaller that the ID of the thimble.  Bend a section of the rod slightly longer than the thimble 30-45 degrees.  Heat the rod red hot and slip the bent end into the clamped thimble, contacting the bottom of the thimble.  If the solder doesn't sufficiently melt with one application you may have to repeat the heats until the solder reaches melting temp.  Basically you are using a custom-made soldering iron.  Just my 2 cents...   

Curtis

[Taylorz1]

I have used “heat blocker” pastes  before for this type of thing and I wouldn’t trust it.  I would try Curtis’s idea

[jerrywh]

All you need to do is wire everything in place with copper wire so the rib cant move. then proceed as usual. The reason to use copper wire is it will not make any marks on the barrel or rib. Remember you need to heat the largest piece not just the thimble. You need to heat the rib. You will melt some of the solder where the rib is soldered on the barrel but as long as the rib can't move it will remain soldered when the solder cools. I have done repairs on double barrels this way and it works great. You could use tix solder that melts at about 275° if you wish. It is very strong also.