Frizzen to pan fit

[Tim]

I am finishing the Late Ketland Lock that came with my kibler
Mountain rifle. Using a feeler gauge I have determined there is
A gap of less than .0015 between the pan and the frizzen.
Will that much of a gap cause any problems keeping Powder
In the pan?? Thanks in advance.

Tim

[Dennis Glazener]

No I  don't think you need to worry. I assume you measured right and it truly is one and one half thousandth, that's not much.
Dennis

[FlintFan]

Did you mean .015 or .0015?  If it is truly less then .0015 that is an exceptionally tight pan to frizzen fit, and will cause no problems.

If it is .015, that is a bit more than I would like to see but would still be ok holding powder in place.

[Tim]

No I  don't think you need to worry.
Dennis

Hello Gentlemen

The gap was checked with a set of feeler gauges and the
.0015 gauge touched both the pan and the frizzen. I can still see light when held up
To a lamp but the gap is  definitely between .001 and .0015.

[Acer Saccharum]

This frees you up to worry about other things. 

[Tim]

This frees you up to worry about other things. 

Things Like am I gonna sand or scrape the stock...lol

[SteveMKentucky]

Not sure who 'lockbuilder' is but may be a member of this forum.  In any case this is a nice video on fitting a frizzen:

[T*O*F]

Will that much of a gap cause any problems keeping Powder
In the pan??

Measure a grain of powder and see if it's fat enough to stay inside the pan.   

[TommyG]

Put some intletting black or prussian blue on the bottom of the frizzen and snap her shut.  With .0015, you should get a good print on the pan.  Like others have said, with a .0015 gap, you really have nothing to worry about.

[G_T]

Checking the fit that way is worth doing. Generally the gap will be zero somewhere, where there is contact. The contact may be a point or it may be a line. Or you might be lucky and it is pretty good all around. But most aren't, unless you make them so.

Gerald

[WadePatton]

Will that much of a gap cause any problems keeping Powder
In the pan??

Measure a grain of powder and see if it's fat enough to stay inside the pan.   

Yes, because 4F will get away from you much faster than 2F.


Here's a test: fill your pan with your intended priming grade. Close it.  Put your thumb over the bbl side of your pan/lock assembly and shake it.  If powder escapes, rethink the workmanship or grain size.

No measurements required.

[Tim]

Will that much of a gap cause any problems keeping Powder
In the pan??

Measure a grain of powder and see if it's fat enough to stay inside the pan.   

Yes, because 4F will get away from you much faster than 2F.


Here's a test: fill your pan with your intended priming grade. Close it.  Put your thumb over the bbl side of your pan/lock assembly and shake it.  If powder escapes, rethink the workmanship or grain size.

No measurements required.

I am a newbie and don’t have any black powder so I tried powdered sugar.
There was no leakage at all. Do you think powdered sugar was a good test medium.
Thanks.

Tim

[Joey R]

It ought to shoot sweet! 

[smart dog]

Hi Tim,
You have no worries at all about powder spillage. Just finish and shoot the gun.

dave

[Tim]

Hi Tim,
You have no worries at all about powder spillage. Just finish and shoot the gun.

dave

Thanks Dave and everyone who replied to my post.

[bob in the woods]

I noticed that you said that you didn't have any black powder , being a new BP shooter.  It's worth mentioning that you learn about powders,  grain size, [ 4 F , 3 F etc ]  and their appropriate use . Make certain that you purchase true BP and not a substitute , this being especially important when shooting a flintlock .

[Tim]

I have lots of experience shooting my TC in line muzzleloader using both pyrodex  loose powder and pellets. Several months ago I thought it was time to get me a real muzzleloader so I decided to buy a Kibler SMR and only shoot the real deal black powder, not those crazy substitutes.
I wouldn’t dream of putting pyrodex or any other substitute in my flinter.

[Daryl]

I would make it fit closer, but that is just me. I use 4F for prime.
If I used 3F, I would not worry about it.
After firing 15 to 30 shots, there is enough fouling here and there to allow prime to disappear from the pan
but not if primed ON THE FIRING LINE. So - nothing to worry about, unless it has to be RIGHT!

[WadePatton]

I am a newbie and don’t have any black powder so I tried powdered sugar.
There was no leakage at all. Do you think powdered sugar was a good test medium.
Thanks.

Tim

Sure, but change the test procedure.  Load the pan, then BLOW at the edges from all around, there might be a breeze in the woods.  If you can't blow any powdered sugar out of the pan-it's pretty tight!

This is how I lost my charge of 4F the first time out.  It was a windy day.  Of course I've never lost a pan charge since, but also I don't prime with 4F when hunting anymore (I prime from my main horn-whichever grade it is). Also I now "seal" my pan with grease (tallow) if there is any humidity or breeze working. I check it now and then too. The tallow is kept in the grease hole.

Folks have twenty-dozen different ways of doing all these things.  You'll have to find your own--just never expect full consensus on any of this stuff. 

ps. If you want to test sealing the pan against your breath/breeze, maybe try some hydrogenated shortening-like Crisco, if you don't have tallow handy.