Touch hole hitting the breech plug

[Ohioan]

Well, due to poor planning on my part, newbie mistake about 1/3 of my touch hole liner will hit on my breech plug. 

Rice "B" Weight Golden Age Barrel, Chambers White Lightin' liner that is 15/16th that's not right, that's too big.. maybe it's 5/16ths.. I just checked on Chambers webpage, it's 5/16ths 

What should I do?

I know that I'll have to cone the face of my breech plug (uhg)

     I'm worried about messing up the threads of my plug, or liner.  So, I'm calling on more experienced builders for their great knowledge.

How did the world function before the internet? 

[flehto]

Don't fret...I intentionally do this same thing and haven't had any ill effects. I scribe the liner hole infringement on the plug and use a Dremel to grind the cone. If the White Lightning is already installed, it's more of a guess as to the location of the cone. ....Fred

[LynnC]

You've done nothing wrong.  Thousands of guns - antique to modern - are built this way.  Mark the side of the plug and take a 1/4 or 5/16 round file and cut a notch as deep as you need at the side and tapering to nothing at the center of the plug face.  I've done this to get the pan fence even with the breech......Lynn

[northmn]

About everything is said that can be said.  I do that on purpose for the same reason others do.  To get a better position on the lock.  Counter bore the face of the breech or grind it out or whatever.  Many state that the counter bored breech plug can give slightly higher velocities.  Use Prussian Blue or what ever to determine the contact with the barrel step and drill a slightly smaller hole than the bore about 1/8 to 1/4 inch deep.

DP

[J Shingler]

As said above nothing to worry about. You will just have to be a little more attentive to your cleaning procedure is all. I have several like that myself.

[Ky-Flinter]

For Ohioan Zach's benefit and mine, if I ever find myself in his position.....  And forgive me if I am stating the obvious.....

So, the proper procedure would be to measure, mark, etc. the area of the notch to be filed, then remove the breech plug, file said notch, clean up the threads and reinstall the breechplug.  Correct Master?

-Ron

[northmn]

You can drill out the face of the plug and then drill the hole for the liner or you can drill in to mark the plug to the depth of the barrel wall  and then remove it to grind out the area to permit flash.  Tap when you reinstall the plug.  Many originals had a notch cut in the breech face to permit better ignition as it was thought that bottom ignition gave better accuracy over on the side and up a ways.

DP

[Birddog6]

Don't worry about it. Most of the old ones I have taken apart & seen apart were built this way. The first couple I built I did the same cause I thought it was the way it was supposed to be. Now I don't do it that way because it causes a cleaning issue.
So.......

DO NOT try to drill thru the barrel & drill part of the breechplug edge out. That will be a disaster & you will end up with a oblong hole & only half the required threads you need to safely secure the vent liner. With the 5/16" liner of a B weight barrel, you don't have any room now for a screwup.  If you have not drilled it at all, I suggest ya go with a 1/4" vent liner just in case you do make a mistake, you can always go up 1 size to remedy it.  Also if you put that 5/16 vent liner in a small bore, you will feel it every time the jag gets to that vent liner hole. If you use a 5/16 vent liner you also need a larger groove in the breechplug face, so if you have not drilled yet, I would go with a 1/4" vent liner.  That being said..........

Take the breechplug out of the barrel, lay it beside the barrel with the tang edge up against the bottom barrel flat & positioned exactly like the plug was in the barrel, but against the bottom flat just as it was installed. Take a marker & mark on the breechplug,  like the hole is in the barrel.  I put a straight edcge across them so I don't mark out too much on the plug.  Now grind that out  & take a thread file & clean up a little & go back in with the plug & see how the clearance is. Remove & take a lil more if necessary. I suggest taking a dremel & polishing that groove with some polishing rouge & get it shiney & slick as I could.
You will most likely have to shorten the vent liner a tad so you get it in all the way.

As far as cleaning the groove, you won't be cleaning it very well. You may flush it but I have seen nothing yet that will clean it good, other than a bore brush from MBS does fairly good on one.  Kinda like cleaning your car in a brushless car wash. It may clean off the top coat of dirt & dust, but the scum is still there.  A bore brush from MBS is the only thing I know what will get into that lil groove pretty good & they don't hold up too well if you put pressure on them to get into that groove..  Most guys clean them the best they can or call it clean anyway & never admit about the fact they cannot get a patch into that groove.  And flushing it doesn't mean it is clean, maybe the most of it gone but not clean down to barel metal.
But even at that, if you get it flushed out good & dry & a rust inhibitor in it, you will be OK & the barrel will outlast you & several others.

Good Luck ! 

[rick landes]

I ran into the same thing with th one of Jim's Lancaster builds. He told me that there is no problem and many originals are done the same way...As has been said no fret...ya done good!

[Roger Fisher]

Yes, the fouling build up and cleaning issue = misfires which I detest!!  A lot of stockers like to line up that fence with the barrel end.  With todays longer plugs that involves frequently cutting back the plug length and barrel breech or going to that 'groove' the groove being the easier method.  I see nothing wrong with having the vent just forward of the plug face.  Better to clean and better to shoot!!

Just my own feelings on the matter, right or wrong that's my story and I'm sticking to it officer

[northmn]

Yes, the fouling build up and cleaning issue = misfires which I detest!!  A lot of stockers like to line up that fence with the barrel end.  With todays longer plugs that involves frequently cutting back the plug length and barrel breech or going to that 'groove' the groove being the easier method.  I see nothing wrong with having the vent just forward of the plug face.  Better to clean and better to shoot!!

Just my own feelings on the matter, right or wrong that's my story and I'm sticking to it officer ;

To each his own, but have you ever noticed that some flintlocks seen to have a minimum charge such that they tend to blow the vent hole clean?  I noticed in a 45 that I seemed to have more problems if I went below 40 grains of 3f.  Most position the face as much for proper symmetry as anything else.

DP

[Dr. Tim-Boone]

Well sometimes its a poor planning issue re location of the lock.......but many originals do not have the pan fence aligned with the breech end of the barrel.  It does look nice that way and I like Chambers English lock cause it does!!  I put a Wilson Trade lock on my fowler and the location of the fence simply would not allow it to be aligned with the breech. Dang good lock though!  If It looks right with the rest of the architecture for the gun you are building then do as several have explained and file a notch on the plug. Otherwise its simpler to just locate the touch hole just in front of the plug.....That's my novice take on what I have experienced and read.......