Escutcheon Inlays

[JLayne]

All,

I am getting close to the final shaping portion of my first pre-carve build, and am thinking I would like to add some nickel silver escutcheon inlays along the forestock.  I have read that using small pins to hold them in place, along with some epoxy, is the recommended procedure for fixing them to the stock after inletting. My question is can any of you provide advice as to what sort of pins you would use for this? Can they be purchased or do they have to be made? And if they have to be made, from what material, cut to what length etc.? In other words, I would like to know if somebody out there can elaborate on the materials and process for making the pins in the event that they are something that can't be bought ready to use.

Thanks,
Jay

[flinchrocket]

You can buy german silver rod in 1/16 from MBS or TOTW to make pins.

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

Use GS wire or copper or brass.  Make a forming die:  drill a 1/16" hole through a piece of steel, countersink it, and use that to form the heads of your nails.  Use a sharpened pair of side cutters to press teeth into the shanks of the nails, drive them in, file off the extra with the inlay, and BYU.  Here's a few images of how that looks on a build.

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

Here's another one, this one my Chambers' Virginia rifle.  I used pure silver for both the inlay and the nails.  I forged the nails from sheet stock and upset the heads as described above.  No epoxy used or needed in either of these pieces.

[smart dog]

Hi,
There are quite a few ways to skin this cat and Taylor shows a very good way. Sometimes the method depends on your objectives. Taylor showed how to pin inlays and have the heads flush and disappear. On many original guns, the head of the nail is slightly raised and shows. In my case, I use tiny brass screws to hold brass inlays.  These are very small and some have flat heads and others round heads.  I just peen the heads into a counter sunk hole and file flush or simply peen the head down and file the head a little to clean it up but leave it above the surface of the inlay.  For silver inlays, I thread a long section of sterling silver wire with a die.  Then, using a wire clippers, I cut out the individual pins. The clippers leave a sharp end at the cut and the threads grip the wood. I simply tap them in the holes in the inlay.  If the holes are counter sunk, I peen the extra length down into the counter sunk holes and file flush.  If not, I peen the extra length down and clean it up a bit with a file.  I always put a little epoxy into the holes before the pins for good measure.

dave

[StevenV]

Jay , I just performed this procedure yesterday on a flintlock, thumb piece and hunters star, installed with pins/brads. I do it almost exactly like Taylor ( Taylor your work is AMAZING). I make my pins from the material I make the inlay out of. If you buy inlays already cut this won't work. I put barbs on my pins and before I start taping (LIGHTLY) I put some water or alcohol in the hole, helps slide in and when dry even tighter.
1.) make pins
2.) counter sink inlay
3.) anneal inlay if non ferrous heat to dull red quench in water
4.)drop some water/alcohol( just a few drops) down pre-drilled hole
5.) start taping lightly til into your counter sink
6.) file a little off and tap a little more
7.) file flush





if your going to engrave the inlay , very important that good contact all around in Inlay cavity, engrave lightly, or inlay can pop up a bit . Don't over tap brad into( just make it flush , don't drive it thru the gun) gun, can pop inlay up a bit. Ask me how I know.    Steve