Which gouge to use on lock panel

[Terry Reynolds]

Starting to shape the lock panel and was wondering if a gouge would be best to shape the front part of the panel? The curve has always given me trouble shape with files.

If a gouge would be better which one would be best, deep round or shallow round and what width? I’m looking at the 10mm width but not sure.

Thanks once again.

[deepcreekdale]

Probably about a 7 sweep 10 mm would be about right to get you started, depends of course on how much curve you are looking for. Also, I like to get the panel as close to the lock plate as possible, most original rifles didn't have much of flat area between the lock plate and where the curve starts. Some of them didn't really have any at all, except maybe at the front and rear.

[Bob McBride]

If you use a round file vertically right in front of the panel and cut a groove to depth and rough shape the stock in front of the panel first it will give you some elbow room and then you can start angling the file to bring it in closer to the panel at the top and bottom. You will then have an angle and very little wood that is easier to deal with with the gouge. Of course, that’s just the way I do it, and I’m very far from being as experienced as some who will chime in. 

[Stoner creek]

I use these 2 tools. Much faster than a gouge and will give you a more controlled cut.
Also, I believe that your panels are too fat. Take them to around an eighth of an inch from the bottom of your lock plate and you’ll end up happier with the end result.

[FALout]

Using a gouge is a good starting point but a file and then the dreaded sandpaper does the best to finish.  Besides, there is no one gouge that is perfect for all guns.

[rich pierce]

Dave Person! To the rescue please!

I think most makers would tell you to shape the area using flat tools of choice such as drawknife, rasp, spokeshave, etc. Then only later do your modeling. Only place to use a gouge (and not necessary there) is at the front of the lock molding.

[tallbear]

Terry
I use a 7x10 gouge and files.

Mitch

[Ed Wenger]

I’m pretty sure Terry is referring to the forward part of the molding here.  If that’s the case, as shown here, everyone has their methods.  Personally, I like to use a gouge in this area to start, then transition to a round file.  Architecture of the piece will dictate the type of gouge, deep or more shallow.  I like a gouge primarily because it’s easier for me to get a crisp edge, but that’s just me.  As Rich pointed out, the other areas of the panel, to include the top, above the nose of the lock plate, is formed with flat cutting tools.  Best,


          Ed

[Ky-Flinter]

All good info above.  If I may make a suggestion.  I would make the panel about 1/8" to 5/32" wide along the bottom and top (horizontal) edges of the lock, but stretch the width out a little more at the nose and tail of the lock.  How much depends on the style rifle you're building, but varying that width gives adds some interest to that area and makes it look more slender.  Then some have a molding around the lock panel that looks kinda like a second panel.



-Ron

[smart dog]

Hi Terry,
It appears your stock is still pretty square so I urge you not to do anything about the lock moldings until you shape the stock.  The panels form naturally as you round the wrist.  For the front, I use a gouge that fits my objectives. If I want a carved apron, I start the shaping just with half round files. Then I may use round scrapers or a gouge to shape some details.




If I want a tight small radius, I use a fairly deep gouge.




If I am building a British fowler, I use a deep gouge just for the very front but a shallow sweep for the are between the lock pan and the round nose.






The key, however, is wait until you shaped the stock almost to finished dimensions and contours before cutting any lock moldings.

dave

[Terry Reynolds]

Went back and played with it a little and like what I’m seeing. Narrowing the border does look better.

Dave, you’re right, I need to do more shaping first. Thanks everyone for your time and suggestions.




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[smart dog]

Hi Terry,
These photos may help you see the contours that should be in place before cutting moldings:

[longcruise]

Smart Dog, I really like that side plate with the dragon munching on the bolt head.  Is there any historic reference for it or is it your own idea?

[Clark Badgett]

Smart Dog, I really like that side plate with the dragon munching on the bolt head.  Is there any historic reference for it or is it your own idea?

Looks French to me.

[smart dog]

Smart Dog, I really like that side plate with the dragon munching on the bolt head.  Is there any historic reference for it or is it your own idea?

Hi,
It is French inspired.  For that gun, it represents what a rural New England maker might have made from sheet brass trying to copy traditional French cast side plates.  I like dragons and weird monsters and try to use them wherever I can and it is appropriate.

dave

[Stophel]

Flat chisel.   

Any hollowing out can be done with the chisel, or with a round file or something.

I think a LOT of people try to make the area around the lock panels WAY too drastically concave.

[A.Merrill]

   I like using file's and i have a wide assortment of them. I knock the wood off fast with many different types of bastard file's. To shape the front and rear I use half around file's.  I will try a few till I find what size is working best. You are a long way away from shaping lock panels down to finish. Once the wrist and forearm  is  "near" done you can rough out lock panel's  but still not down to final shape. You have a lot of work to do and a dropped tool on a shaped out lock panel would be a nightmare.  Mistakes happen when you get ahead of yourself.  Do things in the order they should be done. Good luck.   Al

[Waksupi]

I use an old screw driver. I heated and bent it to about 90 degrees. Forged the tip a bit thinner,  added a bit of curve, and sharpened. I've used this on over 150 guns, works for me.

[Goo]

I think you should move the pencil line in front of the lock and side plate forward towards the muzzle.    What's drawn looks a bit too close to the lock plate and side plate.