Author Topic: Making cutter for patches  (Read 5477 times)

Bioprof

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Making cutter for patches
« on: July 10, 2009, 12:23:48 AM »
I'm wondering if you can make a cutter to cut out patches from mild steel tubing or do you have to use tool steel.    ???

Offline RobertS

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Re: Making cutter for patches
« Reply #1 on: July 10, 2009, 05:17:08 AM »
I haven't done it, but I'll bet you could make it from mild steel, and use Kasenite to harden the surface.  I'm sure others more knowledgable than me will show up soon.

Offline davec2

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Re: Making cutter for patches
« Reply #2 on: July 10, 2009, 07:08:55 AM »
Yes, you can make a punch out of mild steel tubing and even harden the edge if you like.  Or just leave it soft and resharpen when you need to.  Or, look up item number 3427A31 on McMaster Carr's web site.  For $31 you can buy a hardened tool steel arch punch and bang out all the patches you want for the rest of your life.  (This item number is for a 1 3/8" diameter punch but they make them from 3/16" to 4 inches !! Or in metric sizes, if you prefer.)
« Last Edit: July 10, 2009, 07:09:40 AM by davec2 »
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BrownBear

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Re: Making cutter for patches
« Reply #3 on: July 10, 2009, 07:26:24 AM »
I just use one of those "pizza cutter" style fabric cutters to turn out square patches as needed it.  In truth I'm only doing that for cleaning patches now, as almost everything else is cut from strips at the muzzle.

Offline C Wallingford

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Re: Making cutter for patches
« Reply #4 on: July 10, 2009, 02:20:27 PM »
You can also use an old hole saw. Grind off the teeth and sharpen. Works great.

Daryl

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Re: Making cutter for patches
« Reply #5 on: July 10, 2009, 04:24:46 PM »
You can also use a bearing race with a large ball bearing, available for the picking up at very large equipment repair shops - or if you know someone who works in one.  A ball 1 1/2" to 1 3/4" works well for most patches, even for the Bess.
Bearing races are also easy to come by - they don't have to be new.

We've been using this system for many years - many of us and they work well. NEVER had a race or bearing break, BTW - you only cut one at a time, but with thin material some guys use, ie: up  to .015", you could probably cut 2 at a time. It only takes a few minutes to cut 100 patches.

Guess a picture or two would be a good idea.  here are a variety of punches- on the left, arch punches, 2 commercial and one home made, welded up one for .36 and .38 cals. The races are a variety of sizes and include one large diameter U-joint cup which also works.  You can see the cloth patch, ready for cutting- with a smack of a hammer- but not on the counter. I use the anvil of the bench vice for backing, while Taylor used an anvil attached to a 'round' of Pine or Spruce. The backing should be solid.  AND - NO - None of us had ever split a ball or bearing race- no flying metal chips- will not happen for those overly concerned with safety.  Do wear glasses - just in case, but I repeat, none of us has ever had a bearing break - it doesn't  take much of a smack with a hammer on the ball to cut a perfect patch, every time.  We've cut thousands and thousands of patches this way.  The Arch punches work best with a backing of UHMW (HDPE - USA).  I picked up a couple at a specialty plastics shot where they make them for chain bearings for lumber yards, benches for butcher shops, etc.  Scrap 2" thick piece 6" X 12" cost me 10 bucks.  It will never wear out - well, not for a long time, anyway.  I've already cut a thousand patches for the .69 using the large 1 1/2" arch punch on the left. The next smaller one is 1 1/8", OK for .54's and .58's. The next one is for the .36's to .38's. It's a bit small for the .40.  The larger balls int he picture are 1 5/8".
I should add that I sharped the ege of a new race by holding the bearing race hole against the 8" grinding wheel. Light pressure works just fine and the race spins itself as it sharpens the edge, making an even grind.  It needs touching up periodically, maybe every 500 to 1000 patches due to slight peening.  A race and a ball are easy packing for going on a trip to a rondy just in case you run out of pre-cuts. Depending on the thickness of patching, you can cut from 8 to 20 patches before having to stop and push them out of the race onto a pile.  Taylor cuts his cloth strips 5 or 10 patches wide, so he can make piles of 10 to keep track of the number cut.  It takes very little time to cut 100 patches as I noted.

« Last Edit: July 10, 2009, 06:02:28 PM by Daryl »

Offline Brian Jordan

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Re: Making cutter for patches
« Reply #6 on: July 11, 2009, 03:20:08 AM »
I have made, and sold a bunch of these over the last year or so. They are made of A2 tool steel, hardened and tempered to 58Rc. The sizes I have are .750", 1.00", 1.125",  for pea .250" 1.500" & a  2.500" for cleaning patches. The tools will cut through 8-10 layers with no trouble.




Here is a .750" & a 2.500" for comparison

« Last Edit: July 11, 2009, 03:24:57 AM by melsdad »
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Offline Roger Fisher

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Re: Making cutter for patches
« Reply #7 on: July 16, 2009, 06:20:09 PM »
Holy Kats I got all I can handle to keep the shootin box stocked and the rifle/guns clean.   

Use scissors cutem square work just fine for cleaning patches.  Cut the shootin patches in strips tuck under your belt and cutem at the muzzle.  Slick as goose $#@* on a door knob ;D

Offline Bill of the 45th

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Re: Making cutter for patches
« Reply #8 on: July 16, 2009, 08:04:35 PM »
OK Roger, how did the goose $#@* get on the door knob, and how do you know it's that slick, compared to what? ;D ;D

Good ideas thanks, well except for the goose stuff.  Hey, would it be any good as a patch lube if it's that slick? ::) ::)
  Couldn't resist, feeling silly today, five days til I leave for dixon's.
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jmforge

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Re: Making cutter for patches
« Reply #9 on: July 22, 2009, 11:20:47 PM »
You can also use a bearing race with a large ball bearing, available for the picking up at very large equipment repair shops - or if you know someone who works in one.  A ball 1 1/2" to 1 3/4" works well for most patches, even for the Bess.
Bearing races are also easy to come by - they don't have to be new.

We've been using this system for many years - many of us and they work well. NEVER had a race or bearing break, BTW - you only cut one at a time, but with thin material some guys use, ie: up  to .015", you could probably cut 2 at a time. It only takes a few minutes to cut 100 patches.

Guess a picture or two would be a good idea.  here are a variety of punches- on the left, arch punches, 2 commercial and one home made, welded up one for .36 and .38 cals. The races are a variety of sizes and include one large diameter U-joint cup which also works.  You can see the cloth patch, ready for cutting- with a smack of a hammer- but not on the counter. I use the anvil of the bench vice for backing, while Taylor used an anvil attached to a 'round' of Pine or Spruce. The backing should be solid.  AND - NO - None of us had ever split a ball or bearing race- no flying metal chips- will not happen for those overly concerned with safety.  Do wear glasses - just in case, but I repeat, none of us has ever had a bearing break - it doesn't  take much of a smack with a hammer on the ball to cut a perfect patch, every time.  We've cut thousands and thousands of patches this way.  The Arch punches work best with a backing of UHMW (HDPE - USA).  I picked up a couple at a specialty plastics shot where they make them for chain bearings for lumber yards, benches for butcher shops, etc.  Scrap 2" thick piece 6" X 12" cost me 10 bucks.  It will never wear out - well, not for a long time, anyway.  I've already cut a thousand patches for the .69 using the large 1 1/2" arch punch on the left. The next smaller one is 1 1/8", OK for .54's and .58's. The next one is for the .36's to .38's. It's a bit small for the .40.  The larger balls int he picture are 1 5/8".
I should add that I sharped the ege of a new race by holding the bearing race hole against the 8" grinding wheel. Light pressure works just fine and the race spins itself as it sharpens the edge, making an even grind.  It needs touching up periodically, maybe every 500 to 1000 patches due to slight peening.  A race and a ball are easy packing for going on a trip to a rondy just in case you run out of pre-cuts. Depending on the thickness of patching, you can cut from 8 to 20 patches before having to stop and push them out of the race onto a pile.  Taylor cuts his cloth strips 5 or 10 patches wide, so he can make piles of 10 to keep track of the number cut.  It takes very little time to cut 100 patches as I noted.


Interesting.  Those arch punches actually look kind of like a beefier version of the patch cutters that came with the high grade English sporting rifles.

Offline Dphariss

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Re: Making cutter for patches
« Reply #10 on: July 27, 2009, 07:08:27 PM »
I'm wondering if you can make a cutter to cut out patches from mild steel tubing or do you have to use tool steel.    ???

You will need to case harden the edge. I have one and it works OK but I like a steel I can through harden and temper.
You can make one from a hole saw if you have a belt sander or grinder and an electric drill to turn it.
All that is needed is that a bolt, nut and washers be used as a way to adapt the hole saw to the drill. Better grades of hole saws may not need this.
Spin the hole saw and use the belt sander/grinder to remove the teeth and sharpen the cutter.
It will work but has a shorter life than a purpose made punch.
Dan

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