Frizzen question

[Dennis Daigger]

Is it possible to nitre blue a frizzen spring without destroying its utility as a functional spring?

[smart dog]

Hi,
If you don't heat it above 750 degrees or so you should be fine.

dave

[fahnenschmied]

Yes, it'll be fine.

[Dennis Daigger]

Thanks, Dave and Fahnenschmied.  My nitre bluing is done around 650.

[jerrywh]

Yes.

[Dennis Daigger]

Got the frizzen spring, trigger and screws blued.

Still trying to get a shell layout done for the carving and the gun is nearly done.

[Waksupi]

Just a tip.
If you have a controllable lead pot and a thermometer, you can do nitre blue without the nitre. I find it easier to control the temperature with the lead pot. Just drop in the parts, and they will float as you watch the color change. I seldom heat up my nitre anymore.

[Dennis Daigger]

Just a tip.
If you have a controllable lead pot and a thermometer, you can do nitre blue without the nitre. I find it easier to control the temperature with the lead pot. Just drop in the parts, and they will float as you watch the color change. I seldom heat up my nitre anymore.

Thanks, Waksupi.  I've heard about using a lead pot but have never done it.  Do you ever get lead adhesion on the parts?  What temperature are you using?

With the nitre salts I was able to start at around 610° and was at 650° when I finished.  Just took longer at the lower temps.  For me the temps at the upper end can cause color changes quickly leading to overshoots.

[Waksupi]

Just a tip.
If you have a controllable lead pot and a thermometer, you can do nitre blue without the nitre. I find it easier to control the temperature with the lead pot. Just drop in the parts, and they will float as you watch the color change. I seldom heat up my nitre anymore.

Thanks, Waksupi.  I've heard about using a lead pot but have never done it.  Do you ever get lead adhesion on the parts?  What temperature are you using?

With the nitre salts I was able to start at around 610° and was at 650° when I finished.  Just took longer at the lower temps.  For me the temps at the upper end can cause color changes quickly leading to overshoots.

I've never had adhesion as the part and the lead temps match. Temperature depends on the desired color. Overshooting is why I like a controlled lead pot. If you have one with a PID set up,  it will stay in a 10 degree + or - range. If you have trouble getting your lead to liquefy at lower temperatures, add some tin. Alloys will melt at a lower temperature.

[JCKelly]

Nitre blue will be more durable than the pretty temper colors you get just from heating, as in lead.

Temper colors are very very thin, the color comes from that thin oxide being the same thickness as the wavelength of the color you see.
Same as a little oil on water shows pretty colors. Neither the water nor the oil has those colors themselves.