Bright vs Dark Escutcheons

[Smokey Plainsman]

I’m trying to decide between bright, German silver (or even in the white) key escutcheons for a Hawken or dark blued or brown ones. Such as these:

Bright:


Dark:


Nobody apparently can give a straight answer as to how the originals really were, and they well could’ve been offered with both as an option during the period. So which would you all choose? Yes, I know it’s “my rifle my choice” but what would YOU ALL choose?

-Smokey

[KC]

If it comes down to a personal preference thing, my preference would be for escutcheons that are finished like the barrel. Both look good to me, though.
K.C.

[One Shot]

Could be bright to match the cap, dark to match barrel and lock. It comes down to your personal preference. There is no set rules that I know off. If you are building a HC rifle from an existing original one then (IMO) it should match that rifle you are copying.

[Clark Badgett]

As Taylor pointed out in a previous discussion. File them to fit and leave them alone. Each is unique to where it is fit. Take them off to color them and you may never get them in the right spot or the equally custom tiny screw to ever line up again, They will color themselves in time.

[adam h]

I was gonna do mine colored in my original plans however the more I see plain
the more I like the plain . its your rifle so you  need to get what you want. neither
is a bad choice.

[Scota4570]

The rifles varies a lot.  Kit Carsons rifle has bright escutcheons.

https://frontierpartisans.com/5123/the-mountain-mans-rifle/

[oldtravler61]

  If I'm hunting with it. I would leave it dark. Range an rendezvous shiny....or hanging on the wall....Oldtravler

[Ridgerunner1958]

I have a Lyman GPR and a Plains Pistol that came blued.  I stripped the blueing from the nose caps and escutcheons and left them white but I left the screws and wedges blue.  I don't think that there is a right or wrong way

[Daryl]

This one worked while hunting.
The escutcheons are bright.

[rsells]

I make mine match the barrel and nose cap.  I mark the back of each inlay as I remove them on their back side telling me which inlet and direction they go back in when assembled after browning.  I also take a card board and make four sets of two holes and identify each inlet and screw location so that they will all go back as originally assembled.  I have a Hawken I made in 1979 that has been shot a bunch over the years and all the browned metal parts now have a nice antique patina from use.  Also, the stock shows the wear locations as well.  I love the look of the rifle now and wish I could duplicate how it has worn due to handling, but only time and use will give that look to the two Hawken rifle I have currently in process.  Good luck with your build and do what your heart tells you to do about the inlays.
                                                                                               Roger Sells

[steven baker]

One tip,I have made some hard and simple decision with a toss of a coin ,best of 3 and in God we trust , take care Steven.

[Goo]

If you had gone to Hawkens gun shop back in the day they would have put the ones you liked on the gun and it would have been "original"  followed by " that will be .75cents extra sir" 🧐

[Craig Wilcox]

Smokey, I am building a full stock St Louis Plains rifle by J&S Hawken.  I am dark bluing all the steel parts.  They really look great.

Follow the instructions for keeping them in good order.  I use a metal scribe or a graver and mark 1R, 1L, 2R, 2L, etc.