Bruton Rifle - Gillespie

[AZshot]

Well I have a Don Bruton rifle coming, I'm happy to say.  The timing was good, even during this pandemic. 

I am related to the Gillespie and Sitton families, and my Mills River ancestors likely carried and saw rifles like this every day.  The family lore is one of my relatives worked on rifles there.  So I have had a low simmering interest in a Gillespie rifle for a long time.  The other day, it became a boil, when I talked to Dennis.  It turns out Don was just finishing a Gillespie patterned rifle.  It's now coming to my home, many miles from NC.  I'll post more pics when it arrives. 

[BOB HILL]

I'm sure you will love it. Don is an outstanding gunmaker and a fine gentleman.
Bob

[Cades Cove Fiddler]

  .. great looking rifle,... fortunate to own one of Don's rifles,... don't think he is building many these days,... wonder if he used Dennis' Gillespie hardware....?

[Eric Kettenburg]

Hope Don is well!  He's a heck of a guy and one heck of a fine gunmaker.  Congratulations on a perfect choice of rifle.

[AZshot]

I enjoyed talking to Don several times and I liked his way of describing the rifle and everything he said.  I'm glad to be getting it.  I'm also thankful Dennis made the introduction for me.  Here are some details:
•   42” swamped Colerain barrel.  45 cal.  Round bottom grooves.
•   Lock – Chambers Late Ket. 
•   R E Davis triggers
•   Guard is hand forged
•   Buttplate is styled from Harvey Gillespie buttplate.
•   SC walnut
•   2 ramrod pipes
•   Nose band like Gillespie, no front. 
•   13”  Pull.  Drop 4 Ό. 

[AZshot]

Excellente! I just went for a walk with my dog, and found a nice white limestone rock that would be a good yardrock.  I decided to carry it to the truck to toughen up for carrying it!

[Three balls]

Don built me rifle two or three years ago. He's a perfect example, of a fine southern gentleman. I couldn't recommend him
highly enough!
Earl

[wattlebuster]

Im lucky enough to own 2 Don Bruton rifles. A 62 an a 40. He builds strong dependable plain working man flintlocks. Hope you enjoy yours as much as I do mine.

[Marcruger]

Don's a great guy, and does some really nice guns.  That one sure stands out.  You're getting a top choice, accurate barrel and a fast, reliable lock.  You'll love it.  You picked a good one sir.  I'd encourage you to make the time to go meet Don.  You'll be glad you did.  God Bless,   Marc

[AZshot]

Thanks all, this is a friendly forum, and I appreciate it.  May we all get back to being able to socialize in person soon, I'll be ready to show off this rifle at the range.  And would like to meet Don one day, but I'm thousands of miles away from NC/SC in Arizona.  Next time I'm home perhaps.

[AZshot]

I received the rifle and I'm well pleased.  Been spending a couple days rubbing a little more linseed oil on the stock. I want a bunch of coats on there, I know it's much thinner than Tung, which I usually use on more modern guns (1920s-1950s).   Just about ready to go fire it too. 

[BOB HILL]

Great example of Don’s forgework in those last shots. I love forged furniture.
Bob

[AZshot]

I shot it yesterday, and had good results.  The more I handle this rifle, and research the Gillespie rifles, the more I'm pleased.  I bought the Bivins book on NC Long Rifles and was excited to see 3 different Gillespie rifles, from Phillip, Matthew, and one other.  Their features jibe nicely with this one. 

[Elnathan]

Modern linseed oil is not a good stock finish, as it doesn't dry very well. The old stuff had substantially more lead drier in it than the modern stuff, and the old guns used oil varnish anyway. I wouldn't add any more linseed oil to your stock, and I'd leave it where it can get some UV rays to ensure that what is currently on it will dry properly.

Do a search of the archives if you want to know more.

[Marcruger]

I too was wondering why you'd add linseed oil to a finished gun.  I worry about incompatible finishes, and drying as well. 

[AZshot]

Opinions on stock finishing are as varied as on patch lube, or the best pizza toppings. 

Don told me he uses Linseed oil and had time to do just a few coats. This is freshly crafted wood. He sent me a bottle of what he uses, and instructions.  Knowing how he works, I wouldn't be surprised if he made it himself.  I'm very familiar with wood finishing, and know all about Linseed vs Tung and so forth.  If I'm not mistaken, it's what was used for generations on these rifles, originally.  I'll follow the old:
 1 coat a week for a month
 1 coat a month for a year.
 1 coat a year for the rest of your life.

Not to worry!  I know what I'm doing, I've finished a lot of gun stocks.  It's very dry here in AZ, even notoriously slow to dry finishes dry in record time, here.  I will not put any finish on the gun that has artificial polymers, or plastic urethane. Minwax, Linspeed, TrueOil, and all the others often recommended have that.  While most bemoan how long Boiled Linseed Oil takes, and how many coats, I actually enjoy the long process.   If it was good enough in the 1700s-1800s, it's good enough for me.

It's kind of ironic to shoot archaic flintlocks with black powder (no Pyrodex here), made with hand forged iron parts, but not to use traditional finishes. 

[Elnathan]

Don told me he uses Linseed oil and had time to do just a few coats. This is freshly crafted wood. He sent me a bottle of what he uses, and instructions.  Knowing how he works, I wouldn't be surprised if he made it himself.

Good to hear (or read, as the case may be). I thought you were using hardware store stuff...I've used that quite a bit on things like axe handles, chisel handles, and anything I need a cheap, non-slick finish which isn't going to be exposed to the elements much, but I sure wouldn't want to use it in a valuable rifle, particularly over another finish.

If it was good enough in the 1700s-1800s, it's good enough for me.

It has been awhile since I looked at the question, but if I recall correctly the evidence seems to be that it wasn't good enough then, either, and that oil varnishes were the norm, with the occasional use of a spirit varnish. I don't think that there is much evidence for the use of linseed oil itself for gunstock finish back in the day. That is why I was suggesting that you read through the archives on the subject here on ALR.

Another link on the subject:
https://www.muzzleblasts.com/archives/vol5no2/articles/mbo52-1.shtml

That is a nice rifle, BTW. I've always liked Bruton's work, and Gillespies are of particular interest since I grew up and still live not too far from their old shop.

[AZshot]

No worries.  I'm sure if I wanted to I could add something else to the Boiled Linseed Oil that I'm using.  But it's doing such a great job, I probably won't.  I've got a weeks worth on it now, and will slow down.  The difference is noticible (but hard to photograph).  The contrast of the grain is higher, the deepness of the lighter areas is something to behold.  There is a little bit more sheen, but mostly on the "normal wear areas", as this is how Don finished the rifle - to show some age.  Similarly, if I get a few knocks and scratches, that's going to make it look better.  Not worse, as a hard varnish would do.  And the great part is I could add something over this anytime I want.  IF I chose to go "high protection".  Again, I'm in the desert southwest, we don't get rain....

Here is an interesting history of Linseed Oil in America (production here was started in the 1790s).  https://www.ag.ndsu.edu/agnic/flax/Eastman/ch%205.pdf 

As we know the US Arsenals used Linseed Oil on martial arms for as long as they had wooden stocks, from the Lewis & Clark rifles up through WWII.  https://archive.org/details/ordnancemanualfo00unitrich/page/174/mode/2up/search/linseed

On civilian arms there were various formulas, hardeners, dryers, and sometimes mixes with other oils or varnishes. But the main ingredient was Linseed. (I have some Sanderac on hand, as well as Lavender Oil, and make my own varnish for other things).  I've studied finishes for years, I built my first muzzle loader in about 1978. 

Linseed Oil may be the "bare minimum" on a 1790s-1830s Southern Rifle.  But I'm sure it was used quite a bit with little else. My family is also from Mills River, we're related to the Gillespies and Sittons, but the answer to what they used when making rifles is unclear.

[scottmc]

First, I'd like to say I like your rifle!  I've always liked the gillespie guns and one of my first builds was a form of gillespie in 1990 based on an article that was in muzzle last in 1989 or 88.  I have Dennis's book and look through it often and plan on building another soon.

Second, I can support your thoughts on pure boiled li seed oil as my mentor, Paul Allison, is closing in on number 325 and has only used pure linseed oil on all of them.  I lot of my friends own his rifles and i have seen his personal rifles with many hours of hunting on them and have held up well.  He will argue with any builder that linseed is as good and durable as any other finish and I can't personally dispute it.  I personally, use other finishes since I dont have the patience to do it his way with finish but within 6 months, his finish is hard and impenetrable as any other under normal hunting conditions, rain included.

[Smokey Plainsman]

That thumbhole-shapes grease hole is very fetching!