silver soldering metal to a tang

[borderdogs]

Hi Guys,
I am sure this is a pretty basic question but I have to add some metal to the tang on the Hawken rifle I am building. I want to add a piece to thicken the tang under the screw hole near the top of the tang. The tang is fitted and already drilled. Actually when I bent and filed the tang and installed it in the stock I took a lot of metal off the surface when it was installed. But once I drilled and counter sunk the screw I realized I needed more metal under it. The rifle is pretty much together but nothing is finished yet. I did a once over and found some areas I want to tweak the tang is one of them. The other is where the tang meets the breech there is a slight space between them as small as ,007" at the top to .011" at the bottom. It isn't all that noticeable really especially where the largest space is at the bottom and isnt seen. But I had the though that if I am going to add that extra metal under the tang I might as well add some to the face of the tang.

So, I have done silver soldering before but not on a thin piece of metal plate I figure I could put a plate that was say .020" and once installed file it to the breech. But I am not sure how to do it with a thin plate or even if I should.  This is the second tang for this rifle the first one I broke when cold forming the tang.
It kind of nags me to leave it and I dont really want to peen over the top to close the space. Any suggestions or ideas I would very much appreciate.
Thanks,
Rob

[Curtis]

If you get good metal to metal fit, clean the steel well and use the proper flux you should have no problems silver soldering the two pieces of metal together.  You could even use borax for flux and braise them together with some brass scrap or filings.

Some photos of the other issues might help with getting some advice or suggestions of fixes for the problems. 

Curtis

[Craig Wilcox]

Rob, apply most of the heat to the tang, as it will soak it up more than the sliver you are soldering on.  There are plenty of silver solders that melt at lower temps - check Rio Grande or other jewelry supply stores.  They also come in a paste form, which combines the flux and the soldering metal.

Cleanliness is about the most important thing, and achieving a good fit is paramount.

[borderdogs]

Sounds good Craig I kind of thought that I usually scotchbrite  the surfaces and clean them with Acetone. I havent used the paste type before I might try that. The last time I purchase supplies I got them from Gesswein I will check out Rio Grande. The piece I plan to add to the face of the tang is .012" I have never soldered a piece that thin before.
Thanks,
Rob

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

Be sure to heat the tang from the back side rather than applying the flame to the face you want to solder.  It is so easy to oxidize the very spot you want to solder and then the solder will not stick.  So bring the whole face of the tang up to bright red from behind.  Your shim will heat up too if it's in contact with the tang.  You might even want to attach the addition to the tang with a couple of nail pins (rivets) to hold it in place, after thorough cleaning and fluxing.

[borderdogs]

Ok Taylor, I was going to attach the tang to a brick with wire with the face up. I have never soldered anything this thin before I wasn't sure. I had planned to just rest the tang against the surface of the brick but I could lift it off the surface of the brick with wire so I could heat it from below. I thought of fluxing the surface and then rest the shim on the tang face then heat. I was thinking of whether I should try to keep it in place rather than just laying it on. I could put a rivet or two in I have some soft rivets at work. I wasnt planning on cutting the rectangle prior to soldering it in place.
Thanks,
Rob

[Not English]

If it was me, I wouldn't bother with silver solder. 50/50 lead solder should be more than adequate. Half stock ribsare usually soldered on with 50/50 solder. You may want to try a flux that is different than the usual brown colored flux that contains a small amount of acid. Rosin comes to mind. On the other hand standard fluxed solder will not come apart due to the acid in your lifetime or the next.

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

NE is quite correct.  Soft solder is all that is required to make a permanent bond between the two pieces of steel.

If lead solder is used, I would thoroughly clean booth mating surfaces, flux them and tin them with solder.  The lay the two together, bring up the heat, and when the solder flows, they will be joined.  Do not overheat!!

[borderdogs]

Sounds good NE & Taylor, I might try that tomorrow.
Thanks,
Rob

[Bob Roller]

NE is quite correct.  Soft solder is all that is required to make a permanent bond between the two pieces of steel.

If lead solder is used, I would thoroughly clean booth mating surfaces, flux them and tin them with solder.  The lay the two together, bring up the heat, and when the solder flows, they will be joined.  Do not overheat!!

Years ago on another forum I read that if it was really,really clean then an ice cube
could be soldered to Teflon. .Never had any teflon so I don't know for sure.
Bob Roller

[Daryl]

Bob - that happens in my drinks all the time, ice cubes soldering together. I think I'm drinking them too slowly, maybe?