Chisel and gouge angles

[borderdogs]

Hi Guys,
I had some thoughts on chisel and gouge angles recently when I was fitting a nose cap on my rifle build. For flat bench chisels I generally sharpen them from about 25 to 30 degrees and have been doing that for years. But when I was fitting a nose cap and had slight gaps where the end of the cap met the wood I had cut from the stock. I had chiseled around where I had marked a pencil line where the end of the cap would stop and using files I brought the wood down to the point where the cap slid on nicely. I purely by accident found that a 20 degree angle worked better for me to do that slight paring to seat the cap.

 So I wanted to find out from the forum what people are setting their bench chisels to? And of course, I would be interested in what guys were grinding their gouges for too?
Thanks,
Rob

[rich pierce]

I wing it pretty much and vary depending on use. Stabbing chisels I set with a very low angle to not compress the wood much. V chisels I set with a very low angle as well. Carving gouges, the same. Roughing gouges, a more stout angle.

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

I hollow grind all my chisels, on the roller at the top of my belt grinder, then stone them and finally polish on French rouged leather, both sides.  I have no idea what angle...just by eye and experience.  for that final fitting of the nose cap against the wood's shoulder, I use inletting black on a tooth brush, and a short sharp knife to remove the offending wood.

[P.W.Berkuta]

I do as the others have said. The wood tells me what angle I grind/stone/polish them at. I have chisels that I keep separate form the standard 25-30 degree chisels just for hard to chisel wood which I will do a "custom" angle grind on to suit the wood.

[heelerau]

What do stabbing chisels look like? I imagine they are quite narrow? Will be starting a matchlock project soon.

[borderdogs]

Thanks for all the replies! I have a Tormeck 2000 which I have had for 20 years but I have used just about everything over the years. I put a hollow ground on my chisels using the Tormeck its a 10" diameter wheel so not much of a hollow. I still own and occasionally use some Arkansas stones that I have had since I started seriously woodworking. When I was using those I wasnt too concerned about angle I usually copied what it was originally.  But for a quick edge at least for me the Tormeck works well with a nearly mirror finish. I have known a fair number of people over the years that could do what Taylor described free hand and by experience get excellent edges. I have never been able to do that.

Purely by mistake the other day I dropped the chisel I was using (a favorite of mine) to pare that shoulder the cap met and it was late enough that I didnt want to sharpen it. So I picked up a larger chisel that I had sharpen a while back and rarely used. That slightly figured maple melted away like butter it was so easy I checked the angle and it was 20 degrees. The one I was using was almost 30 degrees. That got me wondering if builders used specific angles in some conditions.
Rob

[flinchrocket]

What do stabbing chisels look like? I imagine they are quite narrow? Will be starting a matchlock project soon.

https://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=50421.0

[Jim Kibler]

This angle varies with application, wood being cut and the quality / hardness of the steel in the chisel.  This angle is ALWAYS a compromise between ease of cutting and longetivity of the tool edge.  A lower angle is great for pushing by hand during very light paring cuts, but a steeper angle is necessary for heavier cuts (especially end grain) driven with a mallet).  I sometimes use as little as say 20 degrees or up to as much as 25-30 degrees.

Jim

[borderdogs]

Thanks Jim
Rob