Alternative way to mark for stitch spacing?

[Brokennock]

What are some alternatives to mark for stitch spacing on leather? I have a couple overstitch wheels of different spacing, also a couple of Tandy stitching chisels, including the higher end line in a very fine spacing. I am trying to get away from using the chisels. But, I am working on a couple projects using split bison hide, so it is rough on both sides. One side is rougher and darker than the other, but the roughness is more even, the lighter side the roughness is more random, i believe this to be the original rough, or flesh, side. Even if first dampened, the marks from the wheel do not show up well on rough leather like this.

Any advice?

[thecapgunkid]

what happens if you lioghtly shave or skive the edges?  Will the surface show a lighter color you can work on and mark without all the fuzz?

[Brokennock]

Not sure. Will try it on a piece of scrap.

[James Rogers]

Run your wheel on an ink stamp pad

[Brokennock]

Run your wheel on an ink stamp pad

Hmm, I had wondered about a possibility like this.

[Brokennock]

It is interesting/frustrating how the holes disappear on Tue dark side of the leather when marked then poked with an awl from the lighter side.

There are other times when spacing marks can't be seen. Stitching webbing or fabric to leather for instance.

[John SMOthermon]

Sometimes I use the chisels for spacing , mark the holes location with a Sharpie.

Then I use a Dremel with a small burr ball bit too drill my holes.

[RoaringBull]

Run your wheel on an ink stamp pad

I'm gonna use this

[thecapgunkid]

If you haven't already, and the cross section of the edge shows a color variation, try this...

[Craig Wilcox]

Thanks for the shaving idea, Greg.  Being an oddball myself, I do like making things of suede.  But it sure does not have the versatility or mold-ability of finished leather.

[Brokennock]

If you haven't already, and the cross section of the edge shows a color variation, try this...

Thanks for the tip. I haven't had a chance to get back to that project, but will try this and the ink pad when I do.
I need to find a way to make a shank like yours one of these days, I can see how that size and blade curve and angle are perfect for such a job.

[Notchy Bob]

I use dividers.  They can be adjusted for any spacing you want, coarse, fine, or in between.  For most of the leatherwork that I do, I use five stiches per inch, so I set the points of the dividers 0.200" apart, and "walk" them along the seam.  It helps if the points are sharpened, and on rougher leather you need to exert more downward pressure to make a visible impression.

The dividers are infinitely adjustable.  If the length of the seam doesn't come out even at the spacing of your choice, the dividers can be adjusted in or out very slightly for marking the last four or five stitches, so you end up where you want the end to be, and the minor change in spacing is virtually invisible. 

I never could work with the stitching or "overstitch" wheels.  I simply could not get them to work satisfactorily for me.  I'm just an amateur, though.

Good luck with your project!

Notchy Bob

[Ross Dillion]

I use a four hole lace punch. Helps keep a straight line also.

[Brokennock]

I tried the idea of skiving off the fuzz along the edge to be stitched, luckily I tried it on scrap 1st. Need practice.
Also tried the overstitch wheel used lightly after running it across an ink pad. This has great potential,  but again, a little practice is needed. If one's hand is too heavy going across the ink pad, the result on leather will be a solid line, also need to control pressure in the leather. Also, the ink on the points of the wheel doesn't go far, it is tough to restart the same spacing after taking the wheel off the leather, without pressing too hard or holding the wheel against the leather too long in one place.

[thecapgunkid]

Broke, for now you probably need a punch.  With time and the little I know about you, you will master both skiving and inking your wheel.  You're one of those blokes who just gets better over time

I almost hate to admit it, but the hundred bucks I spent on this piece of junk is the only reliable way to space on the type of leather you are writing about without doing it stitch-by-stitch in the clamp.




Look close and you can see that I stripped anything having to do with thread off the machine.  I ground and polished a standard pegging awl blade and mounted it on the needle shaft and all this thing does is space holes for me.

On higher quality leather it works great.  It'll help on the fuzzy hides, but I tend to stay away from buying them anyway.

Keep at it.

[James Rogers]

I tried the idea of skiving off the fuzz along the edge to be stitched, luckily I tried it on scrap 1st. Need practice.
Also tried the overstitch wheel used lightly after running it across an ink pad. This has great potential,  but again, a little practice is needed. If one's hand is too heavy going across the ink pad, the result on leather will be a solid line, also need to control pressure in the leather. Also, the ink on the points of the wheel doesn't go far, it is tough to restart the same spacing after taking the wheel off the leather, without pressing too hard or holding the wheel against the leather too long in one place.

If you were using an overstitch wheel in lieu of a stitch marking wheel separating the marks will be more difficult using the ink pad method

[Brokennock]

This would be the tool I have, two different spacing sizes