Tennessee Rifle Build

[Marcruger]

I am no builder, had the same thought as Eric....slot the lugs. You may want to do that anyway.

[Eric Krewson]

I have a toothpick or two in most of my builds.

[Kevin Houlihan]

If it were me, I'd fix the barrel/breech plug gap before going any further.  You can also move the barrel back if you haven't already.  Don't worry about the barrel pins.  You can install new barrel lugs or slot the existing ones, plug the holes in the wood, redrill and move on.  If the looks of the toothpick plugs bother you, you can inlet an escutcheon at each pin location and you'll look like a hero    Just don't tell anyone what the escutcheons are covering up 
Good luck,
Kevin

[Not English]

Luverne,

I prefer non drying prussian blue as well. A little bit goes a long way.My first tube was bought in '88 and is kind of still going. i use an acid brush for application. If you have Recreating the American Longrifle, the pointy "thing" they use is indispensable when drilling for the tang bolt. It's after the fact, but I always clamp the barrel and stock together to prevent movement when I drill for pins. I use a drill press to make sure everything is set up and drilled precisely. The underlug closest to the breach should be solid, all the rest should be slotted. I use .0620 music(piano) wire for pins. It's tough stuff and tends to eventually eat smaller side cutters. The only one that will know about your mistakes is you. No one else will.

[LuVerne Schumann]

If it were me, I'd fix the barrel/breech plug gap before going any further.  You can also move the barrel back if you haven't already.  Don't worry about the barrel pins.  You can install new barrel lugs or slot the existing ones, plug the holes in the wood, redrill and move on.  If the looks of the toothpick plugs bother you, you can inlet an escutcheon at each pin location and you'll look like a hero    Just don't tell anyone what the escutcheons are covering up 
Good luck,
Kevin

I'm dealing with several dimensional issues at once.

I'm attempting to take care of the gap, but that is my third attempt, and each time the gap gets bigger. It won't be long until I just throw away the barrel, at this rate.

As I've moved the barrel back to correct the bad breech bedding, the touch hole is now too far to the rear, so I need put spacers behind it. At this rate, I'll need to throw away the stock.

I haven't screwed up the lock yet, but that's next on the agenda of parts to destroy.

[Eric Krewson]

It is a rare gun indeed that doesn't have a shim somewhere in it, shim that sucker.

[Marcruger]

Wouldn’t it be easier to glue in wood and re-inlet versus adding metal?

[mikeyfirelock]

I have had occasion ( more than once) to “improve” some of my inletting.   That’s why I save some of the shavings when I use a plane or spokeshave.  Just the other day I discovered that I had inletted the rear thimble a “skosh” ( or perhaps a bit more than “ a skosh”) deeper than necessary.  A couple of shavings and some titebond fixed it.   I’d recommend the solutions given here first, such as slotting the underlugs, but keep this in mind for the future, mainly for places that won’t show.   (Shavings from the same wood should also match bettter when stained)
Mikeyfirelock. ( the mistakes I haven’t fixed are the mistakes that cant be made)

[LuVerne Schumann]

Did some fixin' tonight.

Took less effort than the first time, because I was using a known flat surface to remove extremely small amounts of metal each time.



With a cameo from my right foot.

[LuVerne Schumann]

I finished inleting the lock; then located the trigger position. The trigger went in surprisingly well, and once I trimmed it to size, the lock actually fires when you push the bang switch.

I mocked up the trigger guard position just to see what it looks like.

[mountainman70]

Dude, you really need some red nail polish!!! hahaha. Keep at it, Dave

[LuVerne Schumann]

Well, I've done a little work on it since the last post.








I'm really starting to like this rifflegun. I had some assistance from Ric Lambert, who really helped me shape the thing.

I may actually shoot it this weekend.

[Kevin Houlihan]

Looks like you've made great progress. The rifle is looking awesome - good work!
Kevin

[mountainman70]

Good deal,man.Looking like a rifle now. Best regards, Dave F

[LuVerne Schumann]

Today I sanded the barrel to 200 grit and installed the sights.

It's an easier job than I thought, but just a mite nerve wracking. I was careful, though, and they fit quite snug.

[LuVerne Schumann]

I normally work four months overseas, with four months at home. I'm currently at the 3 month-ish mark, and they've decided I need to get my butt back over there to work, so I have spent the last few days putting in hours on this.










It was always intended to be a barn gun, so I haven't spent a ton of time on the finish.

I'll shoot it on Saturday, and see if it needs any more work for function, but I intend to let it sit for the next 4-6 months, and when I get home, decide whether to redo some of the things I don't like, or just keep it as a shooter and start another project.

This was a ton of fun, and I learned a bunch; am extremely eager to correct for my major mistakes on the next one. I'd like to build either a smooth bore (to hunt turkey) and an earlier rifle design.

[Bob McBride]

Looks a dandy. Get back safe and waller that barrel out with 1k roundballs!

[Marcruger]

That's a pretty piece of wood that really popped when you got the stain on it. 

[Robby]

Too much wood on the forestock which takes away from the lightness these guns invoke.
Robby

[LuVerne Schumann]

Too much wood on the forestock which takes away from the lightness these guns invoke.
Robby

I agree with you. I will probably exert myself on this task when I get back 4-6 months from now.

[Not English]

LuVerne,

One of the most common mistakes new  builders make is to leave the forestock too thick. The dimensions of the forestock are determined by the muzzle cap dimensions. They should carry all the way to the lock panel. The lock panel frequently has too much wood left above and below the lockplate. Don't be afraid to make the panel thinner. That also helps make the gun look slimmer.

[LuVerne Schumann]

LuVerne,

One of the most common mistakes new  builders make is to leave the forestock too thick. The dimensions of the forestock are determined by the muzzle cap dimensions. They should carry all the way to the lock panel. The lock panel frequently has too much wood left above and below the lockplate. Don't be afraid to make the panel thinner. That also helps make the gun look slimmer.

Funny thing I discovered; it's harder to build a barn rifle than one with a butt plate and muzzle cap. Deciding on muzzle and butt shape is relatively easy when you have a piece of metal to determine the shape and size they will be. But I digress.

I had a couple builders look at it last weekend, and they thought I got the wood about right above and below the lockplate, but left too much on the forestock as well. Though one guy liked the thick forestock, and showed me a couple pics of original guns that had that pronounced swell right there.

Once I get back, I'm going to attack that forestock. I was moving slow on it, and wanted it to at least have some finish on it when I took it to our club meeting on Saturday.

I also need to shape the butt.

BTW, it shot great on Saturday, and the non-builders thought it was cool.

[Not English]

LuVerne, I agree with your furniture observations. It's a good looking gun either way. One thing you may want to think about while you're away is to file a small bevel on the top back corner of your front sight. Pollish the bevel bright and it should show up easier.

[LuVerne Schumann]

So, I lied.

The wood bugged me, so I went after it with a passion.











I can't change the 3/8" ramrod, or the 3/16" web between the barrel and the ramrod, but I'm happy with it, now. Sadly, it gets to hang on the wall for the next 4-6 months while I go off and earn bacon.