I have used oil and pumice (then rottenstone) for final polish on varnished furniture and was very pleased. In those cases I used 0000 steel wool between coats of varnish then used the oil/pumice for the last coat.
I am currently finishing a Lancaster rifle using Jim Chambers oil finish and since it has carving I hesitate using steel wool. Anyone every used pumice and ? between coats? I may be dreaming but I would think using fine pumice on a piece of felt would work better than steel wool.
If no one has tried the pumice what is best to use between coats, 600 Grit? I always am worried about cutting through the finish on corners/carving etc with 600 grit.
Dennis
I would simply not allow the finish to build up in the carving.
A heavy oil (compared to the stuff they call BLO right from the can) will fill maple is 2-3 coats any way even if mostly wiped off.
I use 400 grit or finer for the final grain raising of maple, a couple of times.
I use a sissel (?) brush I got from a former photoengraver and rottenstone (wear a good dust mask) to polish carving that paper is not appropriate for.
I never use any abrasive on maple once its stained. Nothing more than cloth. Rubbing out maple even with something as fine as rottenstone is likely to give washed out color in places especially the edges.
Once well polished after the grain is raised it will retain some of this polish even after staining and neutralizing. Adding oil then removing almost all that does not soak in the adding another coat of two will produce a shine.
If stained a too dark very careful sanding with 1500-2000 grit will produce a very good polish once the oil is pretty well cured. I stocked a Win Hiwall in maple and then screwed up the forend the buttstock turned a very dark reddish brown. I had a second piece of hard maple that matched very well but would not stain as dark. I carefully sanded the buttstock with the fine wet or dry and finally got a match. The surface is VERY smooth and bright as well. I need to very lightly sand the forend one of these days to shine it too. But its mostly a gun safe queen now
I really think a lot of this "rubbing out" theory comes from the world of walnut. When the gunsmiths lost the ability to make a good stock finish or thought store bought linseed oil was stock finish, they started using paint store varnishes and various fillers. This resulted in a lot of hair pulling for filling black walnut.
This resulted in a vast array of work intensive finishes. Using bar top varnish then buffing it back with a rag wheel etc.
I used to go nuts wet sanding Sharps stocks with shop furnished store bought "tung oil" varnish etc. And I was doing about 1 a week or more. I tried about anything a person could think of. Wet sanding is a nightmare. You ALWAYS pull a little fill just as the last coat is almost done (if not before). The fumes are wonderful too....
Mad Monk saved me from all this though it took a little time. He really saved a co-worker when he cracked an original buttstock that required gluing and sanding to fix. I was able to fix it to a perfect match with some stuff Monk sent me. I have posted how I finish walnut a couple of times and I keep doing more experimenting. I really like the Grumbachers Oil Painting Medium III mixed with home cooked "boiled" LO.
I am sure that I could cook up a varnish that would work really well. But I can make it with the Grumbachers so??
I would like to make some of the dark varnish such as appears on rifles like the Bridger Hawken in Helena this will require some cooking I suspect..
I should do a pictorial of finishing a piece of old 2x4 walnut I have but if I feel like working that hard it should be something constructive.
Like printing some mailing labels so I can ship a couple of items today.
Dan
