Under The Heading Of "Back At It"

[Tim Crosby]

 It has been years since I finished a rifle but I have had a long barreled pistol in mind for awhile. Charlie Burton barrel, modified Chambers late Ketland. I cut the profile today from a piece of Black Walnut that is right at 2 7/8ths. I did not see the cracks when I started even though I had trimmed the end. I figure finished I will need it to be 1 3/8-1 1/2".
 Now the question; I'm wondering if it is going to give me a problem, it looks to me like most of it can be trimmed away but I'm not sure. Any thoughts, hate to waste a piece of wood. First Pic is from the back second inside the grip area.

  Tim C.

[Kevin Houlihan]

Tim,
 I would take 3/4" - 1" off the lock side and see what it looks like then.  The crack may not end up in the grip.  So...what cock is that on the lock...inquiring minds want to know 
Good luck,
Kevin

[Not English]

Tim,

I would lay out your centerlines and other reference lines and see where you stand. From there you can see where you can fudge it or move things around. Once it's laid out, you might even try and do some rough shaping and see what it looks like before you  start inletting. With a pistol, you will probably need to leave the lock area square  as long as possible for good vise holding.

Dave

[B.Barker]

Sheet copper and nails or screws. If it starts to separate a bit shoot some thin epoxy into it and clamp it down. Use the copper to make a "repair" to the stock and your good to go. 

[Tim Crosby]

Sheet copper and nails or screws. If it starts to separate a bit shoot some thin epoxy into it and clamp it down. Use the copper to make a "repair" to the stock and your good to go.

 Very cool idea, I hadn't thought of that. I thought about keeping the tang as long as possible and make the trigger plate long enough to put a screw through the tang and tap the plate for it to strengthen it. Got a couple of other things to do, this will be a Winter build.

    Timfor

[Tim Crosby]

Tim,
  So...what cock is that on the lock...inquiring minds want to know 
Good luck,
Kevin

  I got it from Jerry Devaudreuil  here in Ohio a couple years ago. I bought the last couple he had and he said he wasn't going to have any more cast, his heath was not the best. I tried to buy the mold but I thought the price to high.
 David Rase fit it to the tumbler and made the cock screw for me.

   Tim 

[rich pierce]

I’m not thrilled with the grain orientation through the grip. I’d get it close to final dimensions and see whether the crack remains, but strengthen the grip with a threaded steel rod from the butt. IF you’re going to use a buttcap.

[Tim Crosby]

I’m not thrilled with the grain orientation through the grip. I’d get it close to final dimensions and see whether the crack remains, but strengthen the grip with a threaded steel rod from the butt. IF you’re going to use a buttcap.

  Yea, I was wondering about that. That was about the best I could do with the piece I had. We'll see.

    Tim 

[Tim Crosby]

  Ok, I had to see what I had, trimmed it down to about 1 5/8ths. Looks like it's gonna be ok.
 I took the trimmed off piece and gave it a good wack on the floor on both sides and it did not break or crack any more. Tough old piece of wood, pretty dense too. 

  Tim

 What's left of the crack:



 Looks more like a stain than a crack:



 Almost invisible on the inside:

[rich pierce]

Looks good to go!

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

If the crack doesn't disappear while you are shaping the grip, lay a good app of CA (cyanoacrylate glue) to the crack.  Thin or extra thin glue will wick up into the crack and seal it, preventing further splitting.
I built an English warbow a few years ago from a billet of yew wood and after I removed the bark from the log, I found a number of drying checks running lengthwise.  I simply laid on apps of CA until the cracks were filled, and the bow has never suffered from the effect of being cracked.  It draws 100 pounds at 32".

[Greg Pennell]

I’ve also used the super thin CA glues to seal/fill checks in fancy walnut, with good success.  I have an exhibition grade piece of California claro on a Late 19th century unmentionable...lots of hidden checks showed up when the blank was profiled, and I almost tossed it. CA glue saved it, and it’s still in use after 20 years and thousands of rounds.

Greg