Barrel Browning Question

[QuanLoi]

Is it possible to brown a barrel using Nitrate of Iron?  I just realized that I'm almost out of LMF browning solution.

Thanks for the replies...

[Daryl]

I used nitric acid (from the pharmacy) in which I'd dissolved some nails for browning some barrels back in the 70's.  It worked.
Good ventilation would likely be a good thing. I do not remember what the %age of the solution happened to be.
Is this what you mean by Nitrate of Iron?

[577SXS]

Why not use Plum Brown from Brownells?

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

If you are referring to PB by Birchwood/Casey, it is a hot brown, and it bears little resemblance to historic browning, IMHO.

[Not English]

That should work. I made some up when experimenting with graying/antiquing a barrel. If I didn't wipe it off fairly quickly it will start rusting given enough humidity. Plum Brown is easy to use, but I don't like the color. I also  think that cold browning provides a much more durable finish.

[heinz]

I use a solution of 5 to 10% ammonium chloride aka "salammoniac"  It was in use by the late 18th century.  It was around old time shoops as a solder and brazing flux.  It gives very satisfactory brown.  The stronger the solution, the faster and coarser the finish.  I have some 45 year old barrels doing just fine.

[Craig Wilcox]

If you go the Nitric Acid route, you will want something between 5 and 10%  HNO3, but put the nails in the water, THEN add the acid.
At 10%, you will want 9 oz, of water, ONE ounce of the acid.
Mixing acids into liquid, or vice-versa, it will cause an exothermic acid - lots of heat generated.  So always remember Triple A - Always Add Acid.  Or base, also.  Like Sodium Hydroxide, same effect.

Sometimes the Nitric Acid will cause a lot of heavy orange fumes, so do your mixing outside, and wear rubber gloves and some sort of eye protection, even sunglasses will help if you haven't safety glasses.

[Eric Smith]

Buy a set of cheap goggles when using any harsh chemical. They are so cheap compared to new eyes.

[Scota4570]

Nitric acid and iron makes ferric nitrate.  That is what we stain stocks with. Nitric acid is dangerous to work with and is now a controlled substance. I choose to buy ferric nitrate crystals and mix them with water. 

Ferric Nitrate is not my go to for encouraging rust.  Ferric Chloride is more corrosive on steel. 

I have not tried this but it seems logical.  BC plum brown now contains nitric acid instead of mercuric chloride, this is good.  The solution is formulated to make rust.  It sure after rusts for days when used hot.   Try using it cold.  IF you live in a humid area I bet it would work great. 

[mikeyfirelock]

I think I’ve Posted this in the past........early in my pharmacy career I made up a couple of gallons of George Schoyens browning solution.   It’s poisonous as all get out due to the mercuric chloride.  After I had small children, I got rid of it on a hazardous waste day..... if you are using this stuff make sure you are avoiding skin contact and if you have little ones around, secure it. 

[flatsguide]

This reply is somewhat related to browning. When I was about 13 or 14, I’m 82 now, I think I remember my father was browning a barrel on an original percussion Fowler. After browning he rubbed the barrel down with linseed oil with a drying agent. It left a very velvety smooth finish, not glossy and not dull. This is a very vague memory so take this with a bit of skepticism.
Richard

[John Shaw]

Something I've thought about but haven't tried is using liquid solder flux as a browning agent. I know from experience that if I get sloppy with it the stuff will rust every thing in sight, including my oily lathe chuck. Have any of you tried it?

JS