Engraving Steel Lockplate

[mountainman]

Other than engraving my name in the barrel, I haven't done any ferrous metal engravings, my current build requires a small amount of engravings on the lock plate a "Chambers Colonial Lock", and I'm not planning doing any on the frizzen area, just the plate itself. I'm made a small attempt to do the border, and soon realized that it seemed harder than anything else, and im like something needs to be different, Question is what? does my graver needs to be on a different angle, or does the lock plate have to be annealed, or ?? any tips or help from you experts out there?
Any help would be appreciated! Thank!

[P.Bigham]

I’ve found they have hard spots. I would anneal it. 

[T*O*F]

does my graver needs to be on a different angle

We can't answer because we don't know what the profile of your graver is.
70, 90, 120 degree etc.?
face angle?
heel angle?

[Acer Saccharum]

Often cast lockplates are 4140, which can be engraved. But as it comes from the mold, it can be rather hard, and tough. It's a good idea to anneal the plate, unless you know it's soft.

For a graver, you will have best luck with a real high quality graver, such as Glensteel(from GRS). To your question about different geometry, yes, a steeper face angle of 50 degrees (instead of the usual 45 degrees) will help make a stronger point.

https://grs.com/product/glensteel-square-blank/

https://grs.com/product/hss-graver-blank/

[mountainman]

Thanks all for your replies, I had forgotten to mention that my graver at the time was at a 45 degree angle, and i will go where ever I have to be at a steeper angle.
Thanks Accer for that confirmation about the lock plate being extremely hard, so if I anneal it , and if Im not mistaken you heat red hot, and then air cool steel for a softer metal?  and after its engraved do you harden it again or is that not necessary??

[moleeyes36]

Often cast lockplates are 4140, which can be engraved. But as it comes from the mold, it can be rather hard, and tough. It's a good idea to anneal the plate, unless you know it's soft.

For a graver, you will have best luck with a real high quality graver, such as Glensteel(from GRS). To your question about different geometry, yes, a steeper face angle of 50 degrees (instead of the usual 45 degrees) will help make a stronger point.

https://grs.com/product/glensteel-square-blank/

https://grs.com/product/hss-graver-blank/


Tom,

Since the GRS graver blanks are listed as .079 inch and Lindsay 3/32 inch are .094, can you sharpen GRS blanks properly with the Lindsay system of templates?

Don Richards

[Jerry]

PM sent. Jerry

[Jim Chambers]

Our lock plates are made of 8620 steel and are not hardened.  I have engraved many of these without having to anneal them at all.

[Bill Raby]

Use a carbide graver. Those work on hardened steel just fine.

[smart dog]

Jim is right, Chambers lock plates should not need to be annealed and I urge you not to cook the plate to red hot because the surface will scale unless you bed it in ashes, charcoal, or perhaps sand to eliminate air contacting the surface.  Instead, bring it to 800-900 degrees and ideally hold it there for about 30 minutes and let cool slowly.  If you do not have an oven, heat it until it just turns dimly red at low light.  I find that I have to do that with parts from TRS and other locks makers because I run into hard spots that impede engraving and also ruin files when fitting the parts.  I don't think I've ever had trouble with a Chambers lock.

dave