How do I cover a flask with leather?

[Scota4570]

The flasks in cased pistol kits were sometimes covered in leather.  I put the flask shown together today from a junk box spout, copper pipe and brass sheet.  I think it would look better cased in leather.  How would I do that and not have a visible seam?

[Daniel Coats]

I like the looks of what you have as is.

But here's a link I found that might be worth looking at.

https://www.instructables.com/How-to-Make-a-No-Stitch-Leather-Flask-Cover/

[Scota4570]

Thanks,  I found that already.  The originals were covered with a thin hard leather skin.  I can not remember seeing a seam. 

I'm thinking of glue and a skived edge that overlaps.  Possibly wetting the leather with alcohol to make it lay flat. 

I have not had the opportunity to study originals so I don't know where to start. 

[Daniel Coats]

The link I sent doesn't look anything like the originals I've seen. I had an old spyglass once that had the thin leather you described. I also recovered another one by sewing a thin leather tube inside out then wetting and installing with glue to dry. It turned out ok but still not quite original looking. Good luck and please post more pictures when done.

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

If it were my project, I would use some garment weight leather, contact glue or ordinary wood glue, cut the leather to fit plus some overlap, apply glue to the leather/copper, wrap it 'til it overlaps, use a sharp blade and cut through the overlap and  the base leather, peel away the excess overlap leather.  The joint you have remaining will be the thickness of the knife cut. If you want to stitch it up, use a glover's needle and very fine thread, and an autopsy (baseball) stitch to close the seam.  Once sewn, burnish the seam gently with a smooth hard item like a small glass bottle, and the stitching will virtually disappear.
But prior to covering the flask, drill a 3/8" hole through the copper.  That is an escape port for the powder gasses should the flask be ignited when full of powder.  Otherwise, you have a pipe bomb that will kill you certain, and those close to you.  The leather will cover the hole, and the glue on the inside will seal it.

[Scota4570]

Good point on the blow out. I turned the the base plug to about 0.010" thick from the inside. 

Are the CVA-Italian cylinder flasks also consisted unsafe? 

Thanks,
Scot

[Marcruger]

I use a Treso brass flask with spring loaded valve at the range to hold powder.  After filling my measure, I put the flask behind and way away from me before firing.   No need to create a bad situation. 

[Scota4570]

I do the same kind of thing.  I do not shoot from and load at the same table.  I load on a one table and shoot from another. My powder measure goes over the flask spout unless I am actually pouring powder into the barrel.  I never pour from the flask into the barrel. 

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

Years ago, our dear departed friend Roger Fisher posted a thread dealing with the dangers of using brass/copper tubing for flasks and primers, siting several instances of disaster.  I have simply made it policy to vent my primers of this design, according to his well presented arguments.

[bob in the woods]

Good point on the blow out. I turned the the base plug to about 0.010" thick from the inside. 

Are the CVA-Italian cylinder flasks also consisted unsafe? 

Thanks,
Scot
I sure consider them unsafe.  They are made of a rather heavy gauge material as well.  Even the little brass pan primers are dangerous.  A mini pipe bomb IMO   I have used those spring loaded nozzles which dole out 3 gr of 4 F , but I install them on a horn or bone container. 

[Scota4570]

The Italian cylinder flask has a base that unscrews.  I will cut  a big hole in the base.  I will cut a disk of plastic milk carton to seal the hole from inside the bottom cap.   

I like using the cylinder shape flask because it stands up on it's own on the loading bench.  I find minimizing chaos and clutter on the loading bench is important for me. 

For the pan charger I think I can drill a bunch of holes in the cylinder and then cover them with shrink tubing. 

[Greg Pennell]

While this is not exactly a muzzleloading accoutrement, I recently covered a small whiskey flask with leather, and this is how I’d cover a powder flask as well.  The pictures are pretty self-explanatory, but if you have any questions I’d be glad to help, if I can.

Greg

[Joey R]

Really nice work Greg.

[FDR]

Great job on the flask! That Awl holster is very nice also.

Fred

[Greg Pennell]

Thanks guys!  I know it’s not exactly what the OP had in mind, but it was the closest project I’d done similar to what he was asking. This could be applied to a round powder flask pretty easily as well.

As for the awl sheath...it only takes one time rummaging through the tool box, and finding the sharp end by mistake, to rectify that situation... . there’s also a little pocket on the back side for the wrench that loosens the collet, and a spare blade.

Greg