mounting a rod pipe/swivel on a doublegun

[Too-Tall Hunter]

I recently created a post on the shooting section regarding an old Belgian Double that I restored and hunted with this fall.  The gun originally had two rod pipes soldered to the underside of the rib.  If it had an entry pipe, it was long since gone by the time I found the gun.  I would like to replace that missing pipe with one that has a sling attachment.  The trick is, the original ramrod for this gun is a skinny metal rod with a deeply coned end.  When I looked at replacement pipes on TOW, they are meant for wooden rods and not even close to matching the one remaining pipe on the gun.  My plan is to measure inside and outside diameter, as well as wall thickness and head to my local machine shop to see if I can find some steel pipe that is at least close.  I figure I can cobble something together out of that.

So here is my question to all you builders.  Obviously, the originals were soldered in place.  I can see the remnants of the solder where the one is missing.  I have never done any soldering in my life.  I've read about it and watched videos about it, but never done it.  One of the videos was by a guy who builds large bore double rifles for a living.  He had quite a jig that he placed the barrels in while he did the ribs, pipes, as well as regulation of the barrels and commented on how he wanted that jig so that as he heated things up to solder one thing, other things didn't move.  I obviously don't have a jig like that and don't want to screw up the regulation etc. on my barrels just to put on a rod pipe.  Any other possible alternatives for attaching that pipe besides soldering?Would love to hear your thoughts.  Thank you.

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

I have no idea concerning your skill level, but from your confession about soldering, I can see a disaster about to happen, unless you develop some skill and practice first.

Your first job would be to create the pipe with the swivel.  That's an easy job for someone with a lathe and a torch.  For example, if i were doing this work, I'd turn the pipe on my lathe, and file out a lug for the swivel, then silver solder them together, cleaning up with files and polish before attempting to attach it to the gun.

The issue with soldering the pipe to your old gun is going to be avoiding having all of the parts that are already soldered to the barrels come apart.  So securing the two barrels and the two ribs so that they don't move when you apply the heat, is critical.  A jig isn't necessary but wiring (clamping) everything tightly first, is essential.  Then it is a simple process to remove all of the old solder from the rib where the old pipe used to reside, tin it properly, as well as the new pipe.  Then clamp (wire) the new pipe in position, apply heat and solder the new pipe to the rib.  The precise amount of heat is required, no more, no less, and recognizing when the temp is correct is vital.
All this sounds scary, but it isn't that big a deal.  Soldering is the only way to accomplish this job if doing it correctly is important to you.  Do not consider using JB Weld, or any other epoxy, which although it would work, would always and forever look like a cobble job by an amateur with no regard for historical methods.  You will never be  happy with anything other than the correct method.  But maybe I'm speaking only for myself.

[Too-Tall Hunter]

I appreciate the feedback.  Thank you!  I have been working on firearms for a number of years now, but not at the level of a machinist, so no lathes or other machining tools.  What I have done has been with hand tools and has mostly been action work, inletting, some decorative carving, a tiny bit of forging, and that's about it.  Soldering and welding are things I haven't messed with ... yet.  I agree that were I to do soldering on this gun, I would want to practice first.

As to the historicity of this firearm ... not really something I'm worried about at this stage.  I doubt this gun was any sort of collector to begin with. Even if it was, once upon a time, it wasn't by the time it came to my possession.  I found it in a pile of junk in my grandparents' woodshed when I was 11.  It had been manhandled by several people before I ever placed my grubby little hands on it that day in 1983.  The replacement stock dad made is not historically accurate, but is very functional and fits me beautifully.  I enjoy carrying this gun in the field!  Some hack worked on it in the past.  I had to replace all the internal lock screws.  One hammer was already a replacement.  The trigger guard had been broken, bent into a new shape, and screwed down.  I could go on.  I want a sling on there to make it easier to carry in the field, but would prefer to do a good job so that it doesn't stand out horribly from the rest of the gun.

[rmnc3r]

You can possibly craft a rod pipe from steel ramrod tips (5/16 OD is the smallest, are about the right length and fairly thick). Use a poorman's lathe (drill press or drill motor) to contour the pipe or to file groves. Drive in a piece of round stock (Ramrod cut off) into the pipe to give the chuck something to grab on to. You can drill or burn out the wood when done.

Maybe a sling stud could be hi-temp soldered on.

Black (steel tie) wire and wedges would hold the pipe in place, tapping the wedges tighter as the solder melts to force the pipe into its bed.

[Long John]

Too-Tall

When Taylor speaks I take notes.

I would form a ramrod pipe from sheet steel as if I were making a pipe for a long rifle with a tab for a pin through the stock.  Once made, solder the tab together and file it to the desired shape. Flip the pipe over for soldering the the filler strip. 

I will never use iron wire to hold components together in a barrel set ever again.  I use stainless steel worm-gear hose clamps that wrap around the barrels and what you want to hold on.  To keep the filler strips under tension get some aluminum tube and cut it into short lengths that go between the filler strip and the hose clamp.  I used a bunch of old XX75 arrows in some spots.

I have had good results with the silver/tin solder from Brownells but I prefer the Canfield paste flux.

Remember that when your barrel steel begins to show the "straw" oxide color is above the melting temperature of your silver/tin solder.

Good Luck.
JMC