Who can?

[Bill of the 45th]

Anyone out there that can rebuild to working condition this antique hardware lock, that I'm guessing is around 1810, give or take 10 years.


Front, and back view, does not have a fly, and the full cock notch is quite deep, making it hard to set off.  I would also like a fly added if possible.  My plans are for a southern mountain, or kentucky fowler from Grinsdale's book on fowlers.

Bill

[billd]

Maybe it's not what you had in mind, but what about putting modern internals in and using the original plate and hammer?

Bill

[Acer Saccharum]

To restore it will cost you four times as much as a new one.

I presume it's not to save money, but to have something unusual?

[Bill of the 45th]

Acer, that's correct, it's definately not a Siler, or L7R, or Davis, and maybe restore isn't the correct word.  It 's a match to some of the locks used on a number of the Susquehanna guns.  It's all there, and I want to just make it useable, and it is in almost workable condition now.  I think I'll start with a disassembly, and ultrasonic cleaning.  None of the holes seem to be hogged out, and other than the deep notch at full cock it appears to be in good condition.  Could the notch be filled, and recut, or would it be better to get a new tumbler, and sear.

Bill

[J.D.]

The notch can be filled and recut, or a set screw installed to adjust the engagement of the sear.

A cheap alternative, that I will probably disowned by some members of the forum for mentioning, is to  build up the bottom of the notch with  weld bond and file it down to the desired depth.

Neither of these alternatives will alter the angle of the notch. Welding will require a skilled locksmith to get the angle right.

Just kinda thinkin'...typin' out loud, so to speak...type.

God bless

[rallen]

I would throw Stan Hollenbaugh's name out there. He has done restoration work for my father. He can certainly make parts if needed and tune the lock so that if operates crisply. Like new.
Ryan

[Waksupi]

Call Monte Mandarino, Kalispell, Montana.

[northmn]

You can almost always cut down the sear engagement so that it will work.  In a worst case situation and as an alternative one could possibly install a small set screw adjustment ala the old CVA locks.  Has it ever had a fly in the tumbler?  If not I would suggest looking at another possible tumbler to adapt as cutting out the insert could be tricky.  I would look at finding possible substitution parts.

DP

[LynnC]

Bill,

Nice Vintage lock.  You know as a collectors item or to a restorer it's worth a fair amount of $$$.  You could get 2 + new locks out of it..........

On the other hand, If it were mine I'd build a rifle around it too 

As to the notch, I'd use a carbide drill to drill thru the cased surface and press fit a small stud into the flat behind the notch.  file to desired engagement.

If you want to get a little fancier, make a stud with a square head to fill the surface behind the notch.

Just some thoughts..........................Lynn

[Dphariss]

Acer, that's correct, it's definately not a Siler, or L7R, or Davis, and maybe restore isn't the correct word.  It 's a match to some of the locks used on a number of the Susquehanna guns.  It's all there, and I want to just make it useable, and it is in almost workable condition now.  I think I'll start with a disassembly, and ultrasonic cleaning.  None of the holes seem to be hogged out, and other than the deep notch at full cock it appears to be in good condition.  Could the notch be filled, and recut, or would it be better to get a new tumbler, and sear.

Bill

If the tumbler is hard use a carbide drill and reamer to make a hole that will press fit a .060-.078-.092 piano  wire. Bigger is better Drill/ream 1/8 deep or so.
Press a piece of piano wire, this stuff is spring temper, then stone it down to produce the proper sear engagement.  Bigger is better so long as it does not weaken the tumbler. Second choice is to weld the notch up, risky with old steel/iron,  then re-cut re harden.
Soft soldering a shim may work. Gluing a shim will not work or at least is far more risky since the shock of the sear striking the shim my break the bond.
Or make a new tumbler.
Its decent quality export lock, you could have the lock duplicated, cock, frizzen and plate anyway. The market needs something like this for 1820-1830 American flintlock guns.
Dan

[ironwolf]

  I agree with Dan.  I would love to have a modern copy of that lock.

  KW