Author Topic: Crack Near Muzzle (Read 3366 times)

DHouse · « **on:** March 18, 2021, 05:28:04 PM »

Good Day All,

I am looking for sound advice on how to fix this crack near the muzzle. This is by far the most expensive toy I've ever bought. I just purchased this piece by a well known builder and upon receipt of the gun found that it had cracked in shipping and am just devastated. My game plan right now is to first remove the barrel(I'm terrified), then put adhesive along the crack in the barrel channel, let dry, then re-install the barrel, and finally rub beeswax or crystalline wax on the other side to conceal the hairline(see photo, ramrod removed). I need some recommendations on a tried and true adhesive to stop this crack and glue it back together forever. I especially do not want to devalue the gun in any way, but rather fix it the right way like a high end piano maker would or something. This is why I'm posting, as I've heard that CA glue was trendy but that people have backed away from using it? Also am curious about hide glue versus Titebond II, or even epoxy has been suggested. I've found several threads on different types of cracks but none on something that is already built and Finished, and different cracks might require different methods so just thought it wouldn't hurt to post a photo and ask. You can see the crack is about 7" long, running almost the whole length of the photo. I appreciate any help in this and am grateful for your time.

Thank You,
DHouse

Frozen Run · « **Reply #1 on:** March 18, 2021, 05:46:46 PM »

Quote from: DHouse on March 18, 2021, 05:28:04 PM

I just purchased this piece by a well known builder and upon receipt of the gun found that it had cracked in shipping and am just devastated.

I would contact the builder in private to politely explain the situation and let that person fix it.

Steeltrap · « **Reply #2 on:** March 18, 2021, 05:52:17 PM »

What Frozen said

Eric Kettenburg · « **Reply #3 on:** March 18, 2021, 05:54:11 PM »

Hey I just saw this, sorry I don't check my PM here as often as I should. Don't bother with USPS or UPS (I don't know how he shipped it, but don't bother), that's a very easy fix and the ship companies will just give you a runaround. I'd tell you to send it directly to me but then you're risking shipping issues once again. Was this shipped in a crate or in cardboard?

I'm going to PM you and give you my direct email, it'll be a lot easier to go from there than trying to message through this board system.

Frozen Run · « **Reply #4 on:** March 18, 2021, 06:31:51 PM »

Sorry, I think I misunderstood the post, did you buy it from the builder or from a collector?

Scota4570 · « **Reply #5 on:** March 18, 2021, 06:39:36 PM »

He said "Builder". Send it back.

This is another good case for Jim Kibler type shipping boxes.

Oil Derek · « **Reply #6 on:** March 18, 2021, 06:45:56 PM »

Careful guys. He said he bought this piece/toy "by" a well known builder, not "from" the well known builder.

Eric Kettenburg · « **Reply #7 on:** March 18, 2021, 07:00:06 PM »

Guys I built the fowler 20 years ago. It was purchased from the original owner who is a really great guy. This is a case of rough shipping and probably the box bouncing around on the muzzle end.

Very clean crack, easy fix with a little care.

DHouse · « **Reply #8 on:** March 18, 2021, 07:05:48 PM »

Yes guys exactly what Eric said. Bought the gun from a great guy and was boxed really well, it was simply an unfortunate shipping accident.

Scota4570 · « **Reply #9 on:** March 18, 2021, 07:28:48 PM »

Plan on every shipped package to have an "accident" and pack accordingly. They now treat all packages like a sack of coal. IF an accident happens most of the time, it is not an accident.

I just had an item sent our for repair. IT was valuable and irreplaceable. I packed it like it would be thrown off a building and run over by a forklift. IT arrived safe. IT came back to me damaged because the service man used his own cheesie packaging. He did not respond to my emails regarding the issue.

I use ABS pipe with drain clean out covers for lots of things, barrels and such. I would never ship a ML rifle in anything less than a wooden box today. Anything less is making damage or destruction likely. Keep in mind that the shipping insurance is impossible to collect from. They will not read the "fragile" sticker.

I have an antique radio hobby too. Buying an antique radio and having it shipped is almost a 100% destruction derby. Heavy and fragile things need very special packaging to have a chance in todays shipping environment.

Hope the repair goes well. Is the barrel bent?

Craig Wilcox · « **Reply #10 on:** March 18, 2021, 10:46:16 PM »

I have had the best luck lately with FedEx. Not to say they are perfect, but they are the ones, for me, that have the least damage done to them. The big brown trucks are next, then the yellow ones, then our friendly USPS. I do like my daily letter carrier, as he strives for on-time delivery through rain, snow, and wind. It is not his fault that damage to packages occur.

I told one shipper to pack the material as if it were being sent to a war zone.

Top Jaw · « **Reply #11 on:** March 18, 2021, 11:28:53 PM »

If you elect to do it yourself, Acraglass stained dark would be my first choice. (Watch Mark Novak on YouTube glue up all kinds of major gun repairs with it). But it’s a little pricey. A good less expensive 2nd choice Tightbond II or III in the “dark wood” variety. It would work well for this because if the location. Spread crack, glue, clamp in a 2 or 3 spots, clean up squeeze out after clamping. You can use compressed air to blow it up into the narrow portions of the crack as far as you can. Besides the barrel, you would also want to remove the upper thimble before gluing. Pinholes would likely need re-drilled when you’re done for the barrel pin and the thimble pin.

FALout · « **Reply #12 on:** March 19, 2021, 01:54:28 AM »

I’m sure Eric will explain a real good way to fix this.

duca · « **Reply #13 on:** March 19, 2021, 03:31:21 AM »

Lol, Mark Novak is the Man ..

Anthony

smallpatch · « **Reply #14 on:** March 19, 2021, 07:18:23 AM »

Choose your glue, there are many options. Inside the barrel channel, bury a couple of short screw, across the crack ina couple of places. A couple of 6-32’s threads only. Should keep it from happening again.

Jerry V Lape · « **Reply #15 on:** March 19, 2021, 07:45:36 AM »

SmallPatch
I am having trouble visualizing how to "bury a couple screws" across the crack in the bottom of barrel channel?

Eric Kettenburg · « **Reply #16 on:** March 19, 2021, 02:47:20 PM »

Gouge a couple of small grooves crosswise across the crack, with level bottom to each gouged mortise, and then glue. Pieces of machine screw set in the grooves will act as anchors as the glue will set into the screw grooves. That's one option, and a good one, although this gun has a very thin forearm so my preference may be for shallowly insetting a piece of fibered material. Some folks also cut wooden keys or "dutchmen" (I really don't know why they're called that) although these are more often used to splice forearms together crosswise rather than dealing with a crack running lengthwise.

Scota4570 · « **Reply #17 on:** March 19, 2021, 07:21:34 PM »

Since HC is not an issue with a new made gun I would use a sure fire modern fix. Epoxy in the crack. Epoxy with glass filler in the barrel channel. I would slightly scoop out the area that goes against he barrel channel and put Kevlar fibers across the crack imbedded in the epoxy. I would also cut little crosswise grooves across the crack and imbed thin music wire in them. I put black colorant into the epoxy (Black iron oxide powder or copier toner) . Wax the barrel. Apply resizing lube over that. Wax the outside of the wood. Use a rubber band chain or surgical tubing to "clamp" it until cured.

IF you don't have old bullet proof vests to donate material, thin fiberglass cloth will do. Hobby shops or suppliers are a good source.

This situation is much like Browning A5 forends that always cracked. They put fiberglass cloth across the thin are on later models.

I would not take half measures. Once a fix attempt fails the next attempt is much more complicated.

Not English · « **Reply #18 on:** March 19, 2021, 07:57:47 PM »

Scota4570 has very good suggestions,I did my repairs slightly different. I coated the metal parts that will come into contact with the epoxy with vaseline or petroleum jelly. Use an extra long pin instead of the original pin. That way heat can be applied to the pin to help release it from the epoxy. Underneath the thimble you can widen the edges of the crack with a veiner. It will not be seen. The main difference is the use of coloring. I use brown poster paint powder to color the epoxy, but any dry pigment will do. The only other difference is the type of release agent used.

This is just a thought, and I have never used it on a gun. Before retiring, one of my jobs was maintaining fiberglass research boats. West Systems makes a filler/additive for their epoxy system that is finely chopped strands of fiberglass. When added to epoxy it is very strong when used for repairs.

Dave

Eric Krewson · « **Reply #19 on:** March 19, 2021, 10:01:20 PM »

Yep, that one goes way beyond superglue.

jerrywh · « **Reply #20 on:** March 19, 2021, 10:17:38 PM »

I am going to second Eric Kettenburg's method. I can't think of a more solid fix than his.

Scota4570 · « **Reply #21 on:** March 21, 2021, 07:05:09 PM »

I just had an idea. Lay braded kevlar fishing line across the crack and imbed it in epoxy...............

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Author Topic: Crack Near Muzzle (Read 3366 times)