forestock shaping

[monro1066]

Hi All.........is there a tool that may be made that eases the work in obtaining evenness on both sides of ramrod channell
on forestock ..In other words is there a shaping tool that may be run on the ramrod channel that helps fining down the
woodwork on the forestock.
Im finding it really difficult to get that nice even molding...
Any help is great....Thank you in advance

[bob in the woods]

As far as the molding is concerned, I filed a piece of steel for a scraper and fit it to a piece of wood which rides in the groove. 

[Maineshops]

I use a variation of this tool for molding along with properly shaped sanding blocks. Light pressure for control.

[rich pierce]

Insofar as actual shaping (not adding decorative molding) is concerned, I run a fine rasp or coarse file lengthwise to get rid of any hills and valleys left from establishing the shape with planes, spokeshave, and rasp.

[sdilts]

Robert Boggs, a member here (Robert B), makes a really nice tool for cutting the moulding. You might want to contact him.

[davec2]

I posted this a while back......might help.

https://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=57657.msg576909#msg576909

It will explain these pictures....and some very simple options as well...







Hope this helps.

Davec2

[elkhorne]

Monro,
On Jim Turpin video about building a longrifle, not sure if it was his Jim Chambers build or another, he uses a auto body sanding tool with course sandpaper that is about 18” long to smooth his forearm after he roughs it in with rasps, files, etc. they carry the auto body tool at Harbor Freight or at least that is where I got mine. It helps clean up and smooth the sides. Good luck!
elkhorne

[TommyG]

Insofar as actual shaping (not adding decorative molding) is concerned, I run a fine rasp or coarse file lengthwise to get rid of any hills and valleys left from establishing the shape with planes, spokeshave, and rasp.

What Rich said.  I use a Shinto rasp for the bottom shaping to the RR channel, holding it as lengthwise as I can (maybe 60 degrees), employing somewhat long strokes.  On the top third where radiused to the barrel, I use an 8" Nicholson(US made) fine bastard, again using long strokes angled to the work.  I check the progress often into angled lighting. 

[davec2]

As far as using a long flat tool (abrasive, rasp, file, etc.) I have never found anything better or that cuts faster (or smoother) than these "fender" or "body" files.  Also called "curved tooth files".  They will cut most metals and the large teeth don't load up with soft metals like lead, babbit, aluminum, copper, etc.  They work great on hardwood but if they are not sharp, they will skate over the surface.  Mine were old and not too sharp but I sent them to Boggs Tool and had them sharpened.  They work great now.  The shavings come off in curls like having several parallel plane blades working at once.......I have some made by Nicholson, Vixen, Grobet.  I don't remember where I got mine but looked up a few places.....here you go......

https://www.tinmantech.com/products/hand-tools/files-holders/super-shear-files/

https://atmsupplyco.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=2676

https://www.grainger.com/product/CRESCENT-NICHOLSON-Flat-Babbitt-File-1G520

https://www.ebay.com/itm/TSUBOSAN-Curved-Tooth-Files-6-14-Bastard-Cut-Hand-Type-240-made-in-japan/253661231666?hash=item3b0f633a32:m:m2uw0AjPNAa_DDcH3lPCGYg

http://www.warrensvillefile.com/index.php/american-pattern/milled-curved-tooth.html

This last outfit looks good.  They also make these with a handle like a plane and a replaceable file blade.  I always wanted one of those....you could really bear down with that arrangement.

[monro1066]

..very much appreciated the advice given.............Monro

[bobw]

davec2, I’ve been using a tool very similar but much more crude for 20 years but yours takes it to hole new level.  Thanks for sharing again. Bob