Rasps

[Craig Wilcox]

Sometimes, having a large amount of wood to remove, we all use rasps for that.  But I've been wondering about farrier's rasps.

When I was breeding donkeys, I had a huge farrier's rasp that I used for hoof care.  Was almost 2' long, half-round, and evilly sharp.  Always made me hope that those mares wouldn't decide to kick and knock it into my thigh or something.  Fortunately, they never did.  had a horse do that, but the rasp wasn't as big nor as rough.  Hit the apron, anyway.

But those farrier's rasps seemed to be a lot less expensive, but just as useful, as one from Liogier, and it was seemed better than the Nicholson 49 or 50.  May have to check into getting me another one.

Of course, if I had a bit more property, I could get some donkeys too - wonderful animals.  No cattle ranchers around here to sell them to, though.

[Stoner creek]

They take an awfully big bite. If you’re going to use one be sure to know when to ease up. They work ok for primary wood reduction, not finesse work. I quit using them 30 years ago because I’m an ape 🦧.

[Scota4570]

I have two flat ones I use a lot. Don't be afraid of them.  Do, put some tape on the non tang end to avoid cutting your hand.  Mine both have a stitched side and a double cut side.  I tend to draw file with them.  The double cut side leave a fair finish.  I have a large fine grain Grobet rasp that gets me to the sandpaper or scraping stage. 

 I also slab wood off with a band saw.  A power plane also makes short work.   IF you know where you are headed removing wood quickly is good.  If you are not sure proceed more slowly.   

[Bob Roller]

The first generation of Stanley SurForm rasps cut really well but the later ones seem to be a hopeless case and I wonder
if the current ones are any better?I was given a prototype by a hardware salesman in 1956 and made several rifle with it.
My wood working skills are very limited so rasps are not any part of my daily routine.I know common files are substandard
even if they do have once honored names.
Bob Roller

[Bill Raby]

   I will stay with Liogier. They cost a fortune but they sure do work nice.

[smallpatch]

Consider the Iwasaki rasps from Woodcraft. Cut fast, leave a smooth surface, and are WAY less expensive than Logier.
I have 5 different ones…… love them all.

[BadDaditood]

This is a great inexpensive tool that gets me from bandsaw to Grobet

[Mark Elliott]

I use Iwasaki (course and then medium) for heavy wood or horn removal.   Then I go to the Nicholson Patternmaker's rasps #49 and #50, and then to a bastard file. 

[sdilts]

I started using the Shinto rasp as well. The best thing about it is it will cut from any direction. It's great for working flat surfaces.

[Ken G]

I picked a Shinto a while back.  Very useful and easy to control rasp in my opinion.

Ken

[WadePatton]

I like the Shinto, but also got a cheap (Eastern Euro) rasp recently from one of our wood-worker supply houses (forget at present) and I like it a lot.  Very much less expensive than hand-stitched.  I'll share a pic later. 

Also have used a flat farrier's rasp for really hoggin' it off.

[Craig Wilcox]

I do enjoy using my Shinto, and my Nicholson rasps.  And really appreciate the input by all - thank you!

Farrier rasps also cut fast and smooth, but like Nicholson's, have to be fitted with a handle.  The hoof rasps are about half the price of Nicholsons - run between $25 and 35 generally.

[P.W.Berkuta]

I use a rasp very seldom. I prefer a cutting type of tool such as a chisel and a plane. I find that a rasp will damage the wood fibers too much and if you don't stop way before your final shape you will have left some damaged wood fibers that will never be removed.

[WadePatton]

I realize the OP is done, but since all these names came up I threw together a few wood removers from the collection and made a pic. Also to show the inexpensive rasp I mentioned above. 

I misspoke above. It is hand-stitched. Says "Cajax" on the handle, the "C" is a horseshoe on the side. Found it--Lee Valley, about 40 bucks: https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/hand-tools/files-and-rasps/rasps/20133-hand-cut-rasps?item=62W2508

I've not used it much but tried it out on Osage and it's wonderful there. Farrier rasp pictured to show an alternative handle (I go without most of the time-call me silly.  The Sure-form has 1/4 pound of tape wrapped on the far end.  Gouge because I can--I like them but you have to be keen on keeping 'em sharp. 

One more tool, not in the pic, that I only recently discovered a great use for is the Microplane. I have a flat one for kitchen chores like zests and spices (cinnamon yo). Anyhoo it's the most fantastic tool for trimming down wine corks for re-use in other containers.  Fast and smooth.  You know those bottles with the plastic restrictors that dribble and won't reseal (think Balsamic Vinegar from Aldi  ).  I yank the plastic and fit a cork-use my thumb for a restrictor if needed.

[rich pierce]

I’m with Mr. Berkuta. I find rasps helpful for final shaping, not bulk removal of wood. I use a scrub plane to get close, then other planes, drawknife, or spokeshave. As an overly frugal person, this appeals to me. All those tools are easily sharpened and never need replacement. I’ve not tried high end rasps but intend to. My Nicholson 49 and 50 rasps have disappointed.

[john bohan]

Craig ,the last farroir's rasp I bought was $18 bucks at an Almish harness shop. It does all the jobs I need it for.

[Osprey]

I'll second the vote for Microplane rasps.  The wood rasps, not the kitchen grade.  Replaceable, snap in blades in coarse or fine, flat, angled or half round. 

[Jeff Durnell]

Nicholson makes a farriers rasp without the long pointed tang that's used to screw a handle onto. Instead, it's shorter and more beavertail shaped with a thin piece of rubber/plastic on it. I prefer these because they're shorter, more maneuverable and seem to be better controlled.

Happiness is a new rasp 

[Craig Wilcox]

Thanks again. all.  Doing OK with both the farrier's huge rasp and my Nicholsons.  The rasps are great for initial forming, then I go to a fairly heavy cut file, then mill bastard.  And the latter are no good after using them on metal.  i try to keep my files/rasps separated as to wood and metal.  Brass isn't too bad, but steel, even draw filing a barrel, seems to take away that fine slicing that is needed for wood.  And of course, scrapers for the finishing touch.  I've even used scrapers on brass and steel, just have to re-edge them more often.

And I do have both #4 and #2 needle files.