Stripped lock plate bolt hole

[rfd]

It's a typical 8-32 single bolt to hold on an L&R Trade lock. 

Either I'll need a new plate or perhaps go to a larger bolt for a new drill'n'tap. 

Anyone have a better fix?

[smylee grouch]

It sounds like a 10x32 would fix it right up

[WadePatton]

Some might fill it and redrill/tap it.  Depends upon what you think is best. Of course if you want to move it, this option makes that easier.

[rfd]

Thanx for the replies.  I'll TIG weld to fill, file, and redrill/tap for 8-32.

[Bob Roller]

On ANY tapping operations I always countersink the drilled hole the depth of one thread,
The tap starts easier and no upheaval around the hole.
Bob Roller

[bob in the woods]

Why did the problem occur in the first place ?    That's a larger, heavier lock, and perhaps the fit to the stock isn't as perfect as can be, all of which puts strain on that single bolt connection point.
The simple thing to do is just retap to a 10-32, replace the bolt and you're done .

[WadePatton]

On ANY tapping operations I always countersink the drilled hole the depth of one thread,
The tap starts easier and no upheaval around the hole.
Bob Roller

Thanks Bob. nuggets like this are fantastic.

[kutter]

If there is enough room for the larger 10-32, then I'd probably do that.

But if the existing bolt hole is very close to the top edge of the plate and enlarging it some more would produce a weak threaded hole by placing it close to the edge of the plate (the hammer slams into the top edge of the plate in that area)..
Then I'd either weld the hole shut and re-D&T for the #8.

Or if you don't weld, you can make a plug for the existing hole with a 'head' on the inside.
The shank of the plug fits the stripped out hole in the plate. The head on the inside is for a new D&T for the lock screw.
Rivit the plug into place along with Red Locktite. You could hard solder but a fine line of solder will show if that matters.

The idea is to give you a new solid surface on the inside of the lockplate to D&T into.
It'll be a blind hole D&T but that's not an insurmountable thing to do.

Make the plug from something tougher than the soft steel of the lockplates so it doesn't strip out so easily.
The 'head' of the plug can be any size or shape that fits into that area on the inside of the plate. You'll likely have to do a bit of inletting to let the plate sit back down with it fitted.

[flehto]

I drill a  hole in soft or mild steel for whatever tap size is intended using the smallest size tap drill....in steel that will be hardened, a larger tap drill is used. I always used a ctsk on both ends of a hole before tapping......thought this was standard practice. On thin plates like a lockplate, the ctsk should be slight. The ctsk gives the tap an easier location to pick up  and on the other side, eliminates a burr.

Lock bolts are made from mild steel and other than a bolt that's been hardened, shouldn't strip the threads.....the main reason threads are stripped is the thread depth is too shallow caused by an  oversized or badly sharpened tap drill. Over tightening over time will also strip a thread as will a mislocated clearance hole.

I agree that if there's sufficient space, a plug could be installed and if not, the hole could be welded up......Fred