If there is quite a bit of bend required, I usually make the initial bend while the steel is at red heat.
That way there's no question about wether it's going to break or crack. It'll just be easy to work.
For the tang to match a pistol grip profile of the stock,,I make a quick cardboard silouette profile that matches the stock.
Then do the bending of the trigger guard while at red heat and use the cardboard profile to compare the tang to.
You can get quite close that way.
I make the bends usually by placing a large dia piece of pipe in the vise and use that to hammer the tang over.
It doesn't take much to bend the metal at red heat so easy does it and a nice smooth curve results.
When it's as close as you think you are going to get it, check one last time for the tang being straight,,they can have a tendency to stray off center when being bent. Heat it a again if necessary and pull the tang back to center.
Heat once more over all and let it cool in wood ashes or warm sand so it ends up annealed.
Then any last little adjustments to the stock can easily be made by hand bending to fit.
The heat scale can be removed easily by soaking in water w/muriadic acid in it.
I only use a couple tbs/ acid per gal of water at room temp.
Takes a while but the scale comes right off.
Saves a lot of polishing.
My heat source is an AO torch clamped in a separate vise to the side so I can easily hold the part in the flame to heat it red and then work it over in the regular bench vise as needed.