What do you use to apply the finish on the stock.

[Jerry V Lape]

I have tried several different materials to apply finishes like Chambers oil and Permalin finish.  Get uneven streaks requiring polishing the surface with scotchbrite, OOOO steel wool or 600 grit paper to level each application.  What do you use?

[JPK]

I use one finger tip then spread with my hand. Only the tiniest amount but can do three coats a day when conditions are right.

[smart dog]

Hi Jerry,
I apply 2 thinned coats with a brush, each time letting them soak in for 15-20 minutes and then I wipe off all excess with a rag.  I leave nothing pooled on the surface.  I let each coat dry 24 hours before another coat is applied. Then I dip a maroon Scotch Bright pad in unthinned oil, wipe that on sparingly, let sit for 15 minutes, and wipe off all excess including getting into the tight corners and incised lines  I continue that until I have the surface I want.

dave

[Stoner creek]

Hi Jerry,
I apply 2 thinned coats with a brush, each time letting them soak in for 15-20 minutes and then I wipe off all excess with a rag.  I leave nothing pooled on the surface.  I let each coat dry 24 hours before another coat is applied. Then I dip a maroon Scotch Bright pad in unthinned oil, wipe that on sparingly, let sit for 15 minutes, and wipe off all excess including getting into the tight corners and incised lines  I continue that until I have the surface I want.

dave

 Pretty much exactly how I do it too. Humidity might change my wait times. I like to set it outside on a warm dry day.

[Mike Brooks]

First coat with a cotton dauber. Then I use my booger hooks to apply thin coats of finish after that.

[Eric Kettenburg]

Stain (i.e. aqua fortis) with a piece of a rag.  First coat of VERY thinned finish (ie. a sealer) with a rag.  Everything after that?

Hands! 

[Mark Elliott]

I use foam applicators that I order on Amazon for most chemicals.   

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004FJOOGI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I also use my finger to apply and rub in Tried and True oil finish. 

For leather work,  I use a small piece of sponge to apply vinegar/iron stain.   I generally use gloves with this method.   

[Spalding]

I use the finger/ light coat method also on any stock I’ve worked on. In addition, after applying a thin coat, I vigorously rub my palm over it till it works in, gets warm.
Don’t know if it’s right or wrong, but I’ve been satisfied with the results.

Bob

[Jerry V Lape]

Smart dog
What do you thin the oil with and what ratio?  I have Permalyn finish and Chambers finish.  Is mineral spirits the right thinner?

[smart dog]

Hi Jerry,
I suspect mineral spirits would work but I also believe there is a Permalyn thinner also sold.  Someone else who uses Permalyn hopefully will answer that.  I use Sutherland-Welles polymerized tung oil but I would apply Permalyn the same way as the tung oil if I used it.  Jerry, I emphasize wiping off all excess finish because it is easy to get buildup in the corners, around carving, and in the incised lines. Moreover, it assures proper drying between coats particularly in humid conditions.

dave   

[Pukka Bundook]

Aquafortis with a rag,  all finish (turps and linseed) with hands.

I gather there is a difference between linseed oil up here and down there in the US.
Ours is supposedly OK on your hands. 
I might slop it on thick for a start with a rag, but when it comes to finishing coats, spread Very thiny and rubbed in with the heel of my hand until it feels Hot.

They always reckoned it was the oil that was rubbed Off, that made the finish. Not the oil that was rubbed on.
Tiny bit, stretched out a Long way ....

[Frank]

I follow the directions on the can. Works just fine.

[elkhart]

I use Tru Oil and apply it with a rag. Hate getting it on my hands so I use a latex glove, just a dab on the rag and apply a thin coat to the stock. Light sanding between coats, and I mean light.  Usually takes about five coats. I use the same technique to finish my wood arrows.

Tip: To extend the shelf life of the Tru Oil, when you open the container do not remove the foil seal. Punch a small (tip of a pencil size) hole in the foil, it will give you enough oil for application. Cap, then shelf the bottle upside-down.

[smart dog]

Hi Jerry,
One other thing that may help you.  Although I use polymerized tung oil I suspect the same applies to permalyn.  I try to put my stocks in bright sun to dry the finish.  My finish would feel really dry after 5-6 hours and I used to be impatient and put on another coat so I did 2 coats on long summer days.  It still seemed like it took quite a while to build up the finish to where I wanted it.  When I got busier and was usually working on multiple guns and other projects at the same time, my routine changed and I often put a coat on a stock and did not get to applying the next coat until 1 or 2 days later.  Gradually, I noticed those guns finished faster than before with fewer coats.  What I think might have been happening when I did more than 1 coat per day was while the new coat sat on the surface it softened the previous coat, which was not fully dry despite feeling so.  When I wiped off the excess I also removed some of the previous coat. Despite feeling dry, each coat really needed at least 24 hours to fully dry before the next coat.  Patience is a real virtue when putting on finish.

dave   

[deepcreekdale]

I generally use well worn, clean cotton t shirts or underwear which are past their feasible wear date. This leaves them lint free. I cut a small patch, maybe about 4 inches square and apply whatever finish I am using with them although these days I almost exclusively use Chamber finish. Doesn't seem to ever streak or leave any residue. Unless I am applying an initial fill coat, which I want to soak down in the wood, I apply as little finish at a time as possible and rub it in. I have never needed to go back and smooth out a finish. With Chambers finish, you can control the amount of gloss by how many coats you apply. I always let dry at least 24 hours between coats, if the finish is not 100% cured, if you apply more finish over it, you just moisten up the previous coat and extend the cure time even more.

[mikeyfirelock]

I also use old white t-shirt material.   No fuzz, no bleed of color,  and really cheap ( like me)

[flehto]

I use  2 coats of 2 different finishes...... first  are 2 generous wipe on/ wipe off  coats of Permalyn sealer   w/ a soak in time of 10-15 mins depending on humidity. Each coat is thoroughly dried. The stock is then rubbed w/ 0000 steel wool to remove any surface sealer. After the stock is vacuumed, 2 sparse, finger rubbed in coats of Wahkon Bay Trucoat are applied w/ a complete dry between coats. The final finish  when dry  is somewhat shiny but then becomes very dull. A rub w/ a fluffy towel produces some shine.

The total  time to finish  a LR stock including the staining is 36 hrs. ......Fred

[Craig Wilcox]

Would love to use the heal of my hand to apply Permalyn Sealer or Stock Finish, but can't get the lid off either!  I keep trying the tap-tap-tap on the lid, without success.  Wondering what sort of "loosener" I can dribble into that lid/can junction.
Holding the lid with vice grips, the label on the can keeps slipping around.  About to go get some water-pump pliers from Ace Hardware!

[sdilts]

Would love to use the heal of my hand to apply Permalyn Sealer or Stock Finish, but can't get the lid off either!  I keep trying the tap-tap-tap on the lid, without success.  Wondering what sort of "loosener" I can dribble into that lid/can junction.
Holding the lid with vice grips, the label on the can keeps slipping around.  About to go get some water-pump pliers from Ace Hardware!

Use a heat gun to heat the lid for a few seconds. It'll come right off.

[Craig Wilcox]

And it did! Thanks

[Dave B]

I have started using that tefflon plumbers tape to wrap the threads before putting away

[3 swans]

Hang stock from front entry pipe area, butt down apply any type of finish with 1 finger laytex glove ( the rest of it cut away ) us enough to make it wet, but not to much run. I have an eye bolt in the ceiling and a swivel and piece of bent hanger wire attached to rotate stock while working the finish. wipe excess down  the stock with fingered glove . With a #4 real feather artists brush and finish to the end. if done correctly no marks will be left, if so go back over it with the wet brush. Let dry and go as many times as you want coats of finish. clean brush with acetone. do not store brush feathers down. if you see any marks take out with fine steel wool and redo. 6.0 works best if you find it.