I started a new rifle project a month back, My internet was to create an Isaac Haines style replica. After some initial work I decided to shelve that idea for a later time.
I am moving closer to feeling confident enough to begin working from a stock blank as opposed to a pre-carved. The pre-carved stocks are great for learning the process and familiarizing yourself with the basic architecture of the gun that you intend on building, but once you've got that down obviously the next evolution would be to build from a blank. I find with the pre-carved stocks, the rifle always tends to end up a bit less robust in certain areas, along with less opportunity to shape the stock in others. THIS IS NOT A BLANK IT IS A PRECARVED
Minimal fitting was necessary to get the barrel set into the stock (barrel is a Green Mountain 42" 15/16 .50 Caliber), once that was let, I opted to file a small dimple design into the end of the tang. The tang was pliable enough to simply be bent into a rough contour to fit in the stock, once the trigger plate is in, it can be bent/peened further with the help of the tang bolt being inserted. I filed a draft on the underside of the breech plug and tang for a nice tight fit, which resulted in the tang being held firmly into the stock. I clamped it down at the breech to inhibit it from walking out of the inlet and began contouring the tang and stock to a nice oval profile ( a Kibler colonial rifle being used as a profile refence)
Next step was inletting the lock bolster, I am using a 3 screw L&R colonial style lock. I measured and marked the end of the breech plug on the barrel and lined my pan up according to that. Once I was sure I carefully traced the bolster and began cutting it in.
Once the bolster made contact with the barrel, I took a straight edge, flipped it on its side and coated it in red chalk. This was used to run across the lock panel to show high spots, I used my Japanese rasp to gradually take down the high spots until I have a flat panel. ( the teeth aren't points, but rather resemble the blades of a scrub plane, which leave a very clean cut, I forget the correct name but it is an awesome tool) Once the panel was flattened I reinserted my lock plate and realized that my bolster wasn't flush, but angled slightly. This was easily remedied with a little transfer color and a good mill file. With the bolster flush against the barrel I could then trace and inlet my lock plate, again a small draft was filed on the underside to allow a tight fit.
Now that the plate is seated just above the wood, its time to inlet the guts. I started by tracing the holes through the plate, then traced the respective parts in according to the screw holes and seating depth in the mortice. I stared with the bridle, using the traced holes to place it in its correct position, traced it, and then used a hand drill to hog out a good portion of the cavity, then took over with chisels, creating a cavity that mimics the profile of the part but still allows room for movement in both operation and in the event of the wood expanding due to humidity. I followed this procedure, reassembling the lock as I go until I have completely inlet the lock into the mortise. From there, I place transfer color on all moving parts and cycle the lock, I then remove the lock and scrape away any color until I achieve uninhibited operation. ( this will most likely have to be done a second time once the lock bolts are installed and fastened)
Unfortunately due to the nature of this particular stock, I broke into the ramrod channel.
Now to drill the lock bolts, I start with the bolt that mates into the lock bolster. I really need to get around to making a drilling jig because I somehow drilled the hole slightly cockeyed. Luckily a rat tail file fit in the hole and I was able walk the bolt hole forward just enough to get the lock seated. This now allows me to correctly position my side plate, pinning it to the stock with the bolt and giving me a pivot point to move it to match the correct position for the second bolt later on. I can now trace my side late and get that inlet.
My second lock bolt hade to be placed slightly into the upper third of the ramrod channel, later on I will give the bolt a waist and scrape a taper into the end of the rod to allow fitment.
The next plan of action is to get the butt plate on, I filed the underside of the plate smooth and traced its profile against the stock, giving it a 14.5 LOP. I used a coping saw to cut a rough shape and then got to work inletting. At first I like to use a rasp to get rid of the hard lines left from the saw and get the profile more true to that of the plate (stroke inwards to avoid chipping the sides), from there I break out the chisels and transfer color. I inlet top down, getting the plate let into the comb, then I begin hopping back and forth between the butt and the comb until the plate is entirely seated on the stock. From there, some minor adjustments with a ballpeen hammer solve any residual gaps. I then make my hole for the top screw with my awl, I mark slightly forward of center, so that the screw pulls the plate tight against the stock. I repeat this process for the second screw, marking the pilot hole slightly off center toward the toe.
Now ill tackle the fore end, starting with reducing the web between both channels to 1/8th of an inch, and shaving the shoulders down to where they will only cover the upper third of the ram rod. I then took the belly back an inch to give the rifle a longer appearance. Moving onto the entry thimble. To begin this operation, I first inlet one of the forward thimbles in the entry thimbles place, butted tight up against the ramrod hole. This allows me to better inlet the tail of the entry thimble, starting at the forward part, and slowly inletting it downward in a rocking motion. Ramrod thimbles are pretty simple operation, I prefer a small fishtail chisel. I inlet them without the barrel in order to get them seated and then file the stubs flush against the barrel's belly, this takes up any possible wiggle room. I clamp, drill, and pin all thimbles prior to taking any material off of the stock, which gives me a flatter surface to drill into. The tab on my ear entry thimble interfered with the barrel lug, I realized this after attempting to place the barrel back into its channel. I had to remove the pin and re-drill after filing the tab back toward the rear, I will fill the old holes later on.
Ill post more as I go, I like to clean it up once the rifle is buttoned up at the end, and yeah i know, the butt plate is screwed, didn't notice the dramatic dip until i stepped back. again this a pre-carved, yes the lock panels look off, I've fixed it since, I'm about 75% on this gun, I have alot of clean up and detail work to do on it.
