Tru oil

[Mike Brooks]

I now recommend EVERYBODY use Tru oil and nothing else. Except me of course. I found it to wear rapidly at the wrist and the forearm and build up to a plastic looking finish with additional repair coats.   

[Daryl]

I found it to wear rapidly at the wrist and the forearm and build up to a plastic looking finish with additional repair coats.

Nifty

[sdilts]

I've had problems with it wearing at the wrist and forearm as well.

[bama]

Daryl, I agree that is quite nifty.

[Eric Krewson]

Tru-oil story; I make bows and finish them with Tru-oil, I was out shooting my favorite osage bow at my stable of 3D targets that I placed off the deck down I the woods. I set my strung bow down on the rail of my deck and went to check on something, I forgot about the bow.



About dark that evening we got a torrential blowing rain that lasted all night, the bow I left outside never crossed my mind.

At my usual daylight exit from the bed I looked out the door to the deck, there was my strung bow, completely soaked, the leather handle was soaked, I was expecting to find bad things from leaving the bow strung out in the weather for over 12 hours. I got a towel and wiped the huge water drops from the limbs of the bow, there were no water spots.

I unstrung the bow expecting to a find inches of new string follow but the limbs snapped back to the slightly reflexed position that they had held prior to my senior moment brain lapse.

It took a couple of days for the leather handle to dry out but the bow was no worse for the wear.

Tru-oil works for me, I use it on my guns, bows and even my arrows.

[rich pierce]

Eric, that’s about as good an endorsement a product can get!

[Eric Krewson]

As for wearing at strategic points on a gun, this is 6 coats of Chambers finish at the precise where place I place my hand to carry my rifle while hunting, this area was once as dark as the rest of the rifle as seen on the forearm closer to the lock.

 

[deepcreekdale]

I tend to use Chambers finish as well, mainly for ease of application. Tru-Oil is OK and as many posters have said, if used correctly, it works fine. My only issue is that the small bottles tend to oxidize between uses. Instead of Tru-Oil, I have used a can of Min-Wax Antique Oil Finish. As far as I can tell, it is identical to Tru-Oil my guess is B/C buys it in bulk from them and repackages it. A large can was about $10.95 last time I got it (your mileage may vary, not that anything ever gets more expensive) and with the larger can, it does not seem to oxidize as quickly. I have a can over 6 years old that is still as good as the day I bought it. I have used it mainly as a filler for Black walnut. I apply a  few thick coats and sand it back until smooth, follow with Chambers. But, if it works for you, then use it.

[Daryl]

After the initial use, I found the True Oil bottle must be stood up on it's cap, so prevent drying of the reduced surface, below the cap.
That way, any drying skin is near the bottom.

[dogcatcher]

All you need to know about wipe on oil finishes.  https://www.woodcentral.com/russ/finish7.shtml

And a detailed way to apply it.  https://www.firearmsforum.com/firearms/article/3037

[Eric Kettenburg]

I agree with the comments about picking a finish and learning to work with it to the point where you can get what you want out of it.  That seems to be the trend amongst most who build more than a few guns; after all, who the heck has time to try to learn or experiment with a new finish constantly?

Tru Oil has always been fairly proprietary but it's my understanding, after some investigating, that it's basically linseed oil and a higher gloss poly with a s**t ton of chemical driers of all kinds.  Mostly cobalt-based I assume as I can;t imagine anyone is using lead anymore other than those making their own.  That's what it dries so quickly and fairly hard while the poly adds gloss.

I have run into a few comments here or there about it using something called 'coddrier oil' or something to that effect, but I still can't manage to get a firm handle on what the heck THAT is.

Bill Knight may have some ideas, not sure if he ever microscoped it or took it to work and broke it down.

[Marcruger]

"Bill Knight may have some ideas, not sure if he ever microscoped it or took it to work and broke it down."

It is a wise man who consults our Mad Monk.  He has been there, done that, wrote about it, and taught others.  A good man who shares what he has learned. 

God Bless,   Marc

[Scota4570]

And a detailed way to apply it.  https://www.firearmsforum.com/firearms/article/3037

That is how to do walnut.  It is my preferred method.

Maple can not be wet sanded with finish to fill the pores.  The stain will get messed up.  Maple is not porous like walnut anyway. 

[Daryl]

That was interesting Scota4570. Thanks.

[mikeyfirelock]

I like the Laurel Mountain Forge products.  Stains seem to be colorfast, and permalyn seems to be moisture proof.  Easy application, I generally use one coat, maybe go over again lightly.   See attached.  Two on left are several years old, two on right are recent ( flintlock just finished)

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

I used to use TruOil as a stock finish but have evolved my process and now use Circa 1850 Tung Oil.  TruOil, wears badly at the wrist, and forearm, exposes the stain beneath it, and this leaches out, fades badly and looks terrible.  My opinion of TruOil is that it is a cheap varnish.

[deepcreekdale]

I used to use TruOil as a stock finish but have evolved my process and now use Circa 1850 Tung Oil.  TruOil, wears badly at the wrist, and forearm, exposes the stain beneath it, and this leaches out, fades badly and looks terrible.  My opinion of TruOil is that it is a cheap varnish.

While I have never had an issue with it wearing on the rifles when I used Tru-Oil many years ago, wouldn't that possibly be a desirable characteristic for some people? Looking at old original long rifles, almost every one shows wear and finish loss at the wrist and forearm. Plus, many of them were finished with varnish originally and while I tend to agree with your description of Tru-Oil as a cheap varnish, maybe that is not always a bad thing. Yes, there are easier and quicker ways to get that effect during initial finishing if you want the effect of patina, but just throwing it out there.

[thecapgunkid]

aside from the love/hate with Tru Oil, does anybody mix it with anything?  Please isolate sarcasm from your answer so I can tell who is pulling my leg.

[DavidC]

Sounds like anyone taking some classes should bring teacher mike an apple with some truoil varnish

[Eric Kettenburg]

aside from the love/hate with Tru Oil, does anybody mix it with anything?  Please isolate sarcasm from your answer so I can tell who is pulling my leg.

Well to really use it properly for a black powder gun, it should be mixed with a thinning agent so the stock doesn't end up looking like plastic.  You can thin it down 50/50 or even more with mineral spirits or turp.

You can also mix it with linseed oil for the benefit of the driers in Tru Oil; doesn't take much, either.  Maybe 20% at most.  Using turp to thin this mix down for initial sealing introduces an additional drying agent as turp will act as a drier when mixed with linseed oil, to some extent.  Mineral spirits will not.

[flinchrocket]

I get the fast drying linseed oil from an art supply and mix it with the Tru-Oil. I only use about 1/3 Tru-Oil to 2/3 linseed oil. Makes an oil varnish that you can rub out by hand.

[P.W.Berkuta]

I will normally use three types of finish on my ML builds (not at the same time) - theses are my finishes which I rank best to lease best
First is Permalyn sealer for both as a sealer and as a finish.
Second is Chamber's oil finish for both sealer & finish.
Third is Tru-Oil thinned for both sealer & finish.
I use a carnauba wax after the finish has totally cured. I reapply the wax as necessary. Each of the finishes have their own issues buy once you learn how to use them they are fine and do a good job