Waterlox finish

[B.Habermehl]

My local hardware store doesn’t carry my usual Formbys finish anymore. John Getz used to talk up Waterlox as the best thing since sliced bread. I bought a can so here goes.... Any body out ther having used it. BJH

[Mike payne]

I used it on a butcher block counter top I made several years ago I thought it did a great job. I never have used it on a rifle.

[J. Talbert]

I’ve used it a number of times including my current project.  I really like it.  I’ve used the medium sheen.
One drawback is that once opened the remainder skims over very quickly.
I recently purchased a product called Bloxygen which seems to work to prevent the skimming over.
Spray a shot of it in the can or jar just as you replace the lid.

After an initial sealer coat, apply very thin coats with your fingers and rub it in.
It dries much quicker than some other products.

Good luck,
Jeff

[RMann]

I applied a heavy coat on an elementary gym floor (maple) once, many years ago.  I don't know if the architect that spec'd it knew what he was doing, and have never been back to see the results over time.  I just remember the fumes were really bad, but that is not prohibitive with a small surface area....  But it was definitely amberizing, so you should be aware of that.  I saved the remnant from the job, and it did skim up heavy, pretty quickly.  So save your extra in small, air tight jars, if you don't trust the Blo stuff.  R Mann

[TommyG]

I've used it on other items as well.  Plan on using it on my current build when finished.  Easy to use and leaves a real nice sheen.  I've always used Chambers finish, but from what I have read here, you can top coat Waterlox with Chambers oil.  Might have to try some test pieces first. As far as shelf life - I divide the quart up in small Ball type canning jars, charge the head space with Argon from my TIG torch, then vacuum seal them in a food saver bag.  Seems like a lot of work, but I can't justify paying for a quart and only using a few ounces.

[mountainman]

I've used it for sealer coats, it did a great job.

[tfornicola]

I've used the original satin finish and had the skim problem too. The finish is great, wish it is sold in pints. Only 4 rifles and 1 pistol finished with it, now it needs to be pitched. I'll still get more! Good luck, Tom

[ed lundquist]

I use Bloxygen to displace air from my finish containers when needed it works great.

[paulitus]

During my 28 years in the hardwood floor business, I used a lot of Waterlox Original Finish. It was easy to mop on, not as durable as polyurethane, but did not “bridge” across the gaps between the planks, like poly would do. For gunstocks, I have always used Tru Oil, but might give the Waterlox a try, if I can get one of my old flooring guys to spare a bit.

[sdilts]

Bloxygen works great. Been using it for years.

[Frozen Run]

Formbys went out of business a number of years back. Minwax bought them up and is incorporating it into their line of products. I'm not sure what Minwax is packaging it under or if it's the same stuff.   

[P.W.Berkuta]

I used Waterllox once on an M1 stock that I refinished and it had a blueish haze to it when dried. I don't know why but I removed it and applied an oil varnish. I would not use the stuff again nor any other water base finish again. My two cents worth - your milage may vary.

[J. Talbert]

Waterlox is not water based.




Jeff

[AMartin]

I use water-lox as a sealer and thats about it ..
It's nice and thin and dries rather quickly ...

After staining , I slop on with a cheap brush .. let it set for a few minutes then wipe with a paper towel and let dry .
I do this 2-4 coats depending on the wood .. And only then will I start carding with scotchbrite pads ...After that move onto spar varnish .

Easy as falling off a log backwards ..
AL

[BarryE]

And spar varnish is your final coat on the stock?

[P.W.Berkuta]

Waterlox is not water based.




Jeff

Well blow me down  -- I must have been using something else - thanks for the info !!!

[J. Talbert]

Waterlox is not water based.




Jeff

Well blow me down  -- I must have been using something else - thanks for the info !!!

You bet,   
Jeff

[AMartin]

And spar varnish is your final coat on the stock?


Sometimes .. I have no set method , and all depends on the job and look intended

[Mad Monk]

That Waterlox formula ingredient list looks very much like the old spar varnishes seen in the 1960s up to about 1990.  Along with the Tung oil.  They would be "cooked" into the linseed oil where they do a bit of copolymerization with the linseed oil.  Hard to find a tougher finish that will stand up on a stock.   

[Mad Monk]

I should have added that the name waterlox would refer to the finish's ability to "lock" water and air born moisture out of the finish.

[Dphariss]

Don’t like the stoddard solvent. Breathing the fumes is not a good idea and there are other “things” I don’t like the looks of as well.
Part of the MSDS

[scottmc]

For what it's worth, like Allen, Stan Hollenbaugh told me that was what he used for dealing the wood.  I may give it a try sometime.

[Randall Steffy]

Waterlox does have a water based formulation under the name H2OLOX or something like that. I didn't look at it's composition.