Work bench lights

[wvmtnman]

After more than 10 years, I’m finally getting back in to gun building.  What are you guys using for retractable bench lights? 
   Thanks in advance, Brian

[mikeyfirelock]

I recently installed led Florescent lights over my bench…….  NOT a retractable as such but a very noticeable improvement…..much more and brighter ( whiter, perhaps ?).    I would suggest looking into an led of some persuasion.    ( be aware…it may be MUCH brighter than what you have been used to.)

[mountainman70]

Hey hoss up there in Mtown how are you doing?

[Frozen Run]

I own a bunch of those 15 dollar gooseneck clip on led lamps. You can clip them to anything, shelves, the bench, the gun, your drill press, anything. They're the handiest darned things in the world and you can get them anywhere.

[acorn20]

I installed two, 2 foot long led lights in my new 14'x14' shed.  There connected to a switch but each has a pull chain if you only want one on.  When you flip the switch at night, it's brighter than the surface of the sun.  I think I got them at Harbor Freight.  I also have a specialized light over my portable vise.  It's a light from a dental office that has a Fresnel lens.  It concentrates the light right where you need it.

[Tim Crosby]

 I like these, used with a 100w daylight bulb, they can be twisted/angled to light things up in the right places.

     https://www.dickblick.com/products/studio-designs-swing-arm-lamp/?fromSearch=%2Fsearch%2F%3Fq%3Dlightting

   Tim C.

[flehto]

The  ceiling of my workshop is all fluorescent lights plus have 2 bench lights for really up close work. Only problem w/ the fluprescents is when staining.....not the actual color. So the stock color is viewed outside around noon......Fred 

[Mike Brooks]

I don't use fluorescents. They don't cast proper shadows and the color is wrong. I use cheap swivel lamps at the bench with a 100 watt incandescent bulb. I have several windows that throw natural light which is best of all.

[Mark Elliott]

I have two Electrix swing arm task lights on my stocking bench with daylight LED bulbs.   The bench is also in front for two large north facing windows.  There is fluorescent lighting in the ceiling.   I have a gooseneck light with an LED bulb on the bench where I engrave.
 

[smallpatch]

IKEA has swing arm lights with a 10lb base, or clamp to mount to bench.
Change the bulbs to LED, and you got a nice light for close work.
Last ones I bought were $8 for the light, and $6 for the base.

[Spalding]

If you’ve got a Goodwill store around, they’re also a good place to look. I’ve picked up a couple of quality vintage gooseneck lights that clamp to the bench for a couple bucks each. Replaced the bulbs with leds and they’re good to go.

Bob

[DavidC]

Here's the Ikea product that the other post mentioned, I think. I use these with an old C-clamp for holding to a floor joist above.

https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/tertial-work-lamp-with-led-bulb-dark-gray-00424985/

[smokinbuck]

I use 2 lamps like David C showed. One in rear center of the bench that I can swivel and 1 over the vice with a light and built in magnifier.

[Daryl]

Taylor has 4' flouescents above the bench, but when carving and checkering, I think, he only uses a 1950's version (our Dad's) of the adjustable arm light pictured in DavidC's post.

[Jerry]

Early on I equipped my main lighting over the work bench with 4 ft fluorescent lights and Dazor lights. Changed all bulbs to daylight. Works great for carving and engraving. Jerry

[godutch]

  IMHO daylight type led's are very fine for your overall shop light. But, no matter what, get yourself a fully articulated single incandescent bulb arrangement over your vise. Incandescent's  throw shadow and shadow's show imperfections we wouldn't normally see like nicks, scratches, etc.  I've often shut off all the main lights and swiveled the incandescent all over things to get a better look. It's a rare case of shadow's being our friend. My setup is very much like David C's (above) and I'd recommend that.  I use a 80 or 100w incandescent in mine, color be !@*%&@.  When it comes down to finish (colors) sunlight is the best bet anyway. 'Just my thoughts...,

[WadePatton]

I don't use fluorescents. They don't cast proper shadows and the color is wrong. I use cheap swivel lamps at the bench with a 100 watt incandescent bulb. I have several windows that throw natural light which is best of all.

The  ceiling of my workshop is all fluorescent lights plus have 2 bench lights for really up close work. Only problem w/ the fluprescents is when staining.....not the actual color. So the stock color is viewed outside around noon......Fred

This.  Colors--Right now I'm using a mix of colors to get "natural-ish" lighting. LED's are wonderful for low-draw and high output but if you don't pay attention to the colors you can get too red or too blue.  Actually they quit selling the lower Kelvin lights so much.  Get to know the difference in a 3500, 5000, or 6000K (Kelvin temp) lights.  The higher the number the bluer the light, lower numbers are more yellow, like candles. 

In my shop at this point (and bathroom too) I'm using a mix of bulbs to get a fuller spectrum of light.  I'm still using the screw-in replacements type, but will upgrade to LED strips of lights at some point--AND have them on separate switches in case I want more or less of one color or the other, or simply less brightness-as we sometimes want.

What I never understood about natural lighting for inside work is that a North window is best because it gives a more constant light than the other three directions. I got that from a man who built a crow's nest of a workshop (for engraving) with windows on three sides.  It's great for looking over the property, but he said it sucks to chase the light all day.

Also I do use a clamp on light and have it mounted to a makeshift swing arm to go anywhere on my bench--probably a 5k in it. The ceiling lights are mixed to avoid "over white" in the room.