Who made these triggers

[bowkill]

I have this set of triggers I was going to use in a half stock 40 cal rifle. The bars are way too short and was wondering who made this trigger so I might be able to order the triggers. Thought of welding but believe just too much to build up.








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[Stoner creek]

RE Davis

[Mike Brooks]

You don't need to weld, soft solder works fine.

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

Take the triggers out of the plate but pushing out the pins that retain them, clean them up with abrasive cloth/paper to remove the rust, and solder extensions to the tops of the triggers to raise their height.
Have you considered that your stock may be too deep vertically and that you may need to inlet the triggers deeper into the bottom of the stock?  I've used dozens of these triggers in builds and have rarely had to extend their height.

[Craig Wilcox]

Just edge solder a piece of the same thickness.  Not hard to do at all.

[bowkill]

Yes the wrist needs to go down some but not as much as this trigger set don't think.  I knew you guys could tell me how to come up with a fix. Ended up using a small queen anne lock because there were no ketland to be had.Not made my mind up for sure about triggers. May make a single for it. Did not think of the solder method, reason you guys make the big money.

[bowkill]

Hard  to get a good picture..

[Stoner creek]

If the knives are too short to reach the sear bar then you can solder some more metal on to make them taller.  I would feel comfortable with inletting them. You don’t need much.

[bowkill]

May get by without adding to triggers. I will have a height of about 1 1-4 if I don't add to bars. In Randal Pierce book ky rifles of smokey mountains there are a couple rifles with 1 1-4 thickness at wrist. Humm... Barrel is 3/4.

[Stoner creek]

If you remove stock to your pencil mark you will be fine without modifications on the trigger. You may end up having to remove some of the trigger knives. Keep us updated.

[bowkill]

Been studying on it for two days and finally figured I would post here. I just build 1 or 2 guns a year at most and been several years since I built a gun with set triggers.

[bowkill]

Might need some fine tuning, but worked out great thanks for input guys.. She is going to be a tiny little gun..


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[Eric Krewson]

I bought a bargain priced precarve that wasn't a bargain, it had a 3/8" web at the breech, I had to add a lot to the trigger bar to get it to work. I have done the same before and used solder paste, none of my add-ons have ever come off or been a problem. On this gun if I went any deeper with the trigger plate I would have been in the ramrod hole.

This is an extreme example but it works, this picture is before I filed down the add-on to be a perfect fit to the sear but I didn't take much off.

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

Might need some fine tuning, but worked out great thanks for input guys.. She is going to be a tiny little gun..


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Let me make an observation about your trigger inlet, please.  So far so good.  But you need somewhere to inlet the trigger guard's front extension so that the guard is flush with the wood at the bevel, in other words, only the bevelled part of the guard remains above the surface of the stock.  Currently, there is no where to the front of the guard to go.  To remedy this, you have two choices as I see it...others may have better advice.  The first is to inlet the trigger plate another 1/8" deeper at the front end.  the other is to determine where the front end of the bow will come on the trigger plate, and file away enough metal there to allow the trigger guard to seat flush with the forestock wood.  I have done it both ways and to be honest, prefer the second method...ike:  file the steel to accommodate the brass guard.  I'm not sure which method, if either, is HC!  Eric?

[bowkill]

Dang Taylor your running late..lol I did have that problem. Where that trigger bar is so long I caught the back of my ramrod hole just about a 1/16 which was no big deal. I filed down the part of the guard that overlapped the trigger bar, which helped some and inlet as far as I could. It sticks up about a 1/16. This guard is pretty thin and I put quite a bit of draft on it. So I just filed the edges and rolled them over to smooth out the transition.

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

...and that's the third alternative!  Your inletting looks very good, and as such, will give the guard lots of support, so well done.  Your rifle is coming along nicely.

[bowkill]

Going to use your method of attaching under rib Taylor..