Incorrect lock placemnt

[Rob]

I made a mistake installing the lock. The forward end dips down. The result is the ramrod hits the most forward screw of the lock. Any suggestions on correcting this would be appreciated.

[borderdogs]

Rob,
Post some pictures of it there are many on here that will post helpful comments, welcome to the forum!
Rob

[bowkill]

Post some pictures Rob... These boys can fix anything, even a broken heart if need be...

[Ky-Flinter]

Hi Rob,

Welcome to ALR.  There are several possible fixes for your problem.  Here's one from the late Don Getz.

You can tell how much it is interrupting the hole by removing the lock, run the ramrod all the way into the ramrod hole
and then look thru the bolt hole to see how much it is obstructing the rod.  One way to do it is to file a groove in the
bolt, you might have to file half of the bolt away, but there is still plenty left to hold the lock.  You will have to put a mark on the head of the screw so you can tell if it is oriented correctly.....Don

If you use Don's fix, you have to remember to remove the ramrod if you need to remove the lock screw in the future.

You can also taper the end of the ramrod to gain a little more space.   

You can also adjust the ramrod hole.  See this thread on making and using a ramrod hole scraper.... https://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=58922.msg589288#msg589288

Hope this info helps.  Keep us posted on your progress.

Ron

[Dphariss]

I made a mistake installing the lock. The forward end dips down. The result is the ramrod hits the most forward screw of the lock. Any suggestions on correcting this would be appreciated.

Can you move the RR hole down? It can be done with a steel rod with the scraper “hook” formed on the end.
I have some photos someplace or can take some when I get to the shop.

[Eric Krewson]

The scraper idea is a good one and has worked for me;



I padded the entrance hole to get more pressure on the scraper to force it where it needed to be, my scraper is 5/16" in a 3/8" hole.

 

You can also wasp waist your lock bolt and it won't have be indexed to a certain position but you will still have to pull the ramrod before you remove the lock bolt.

 

[EC121]

If you haven't tapped the front hole yet, you can go to a 6-32 bolt to gain some room.

[Mule Brain]

I had a rifle before, same situation and they relieved the lock bolt some. Ground some of the metal down and it worked fine.
I have a build going on, and goofed just like this. I will try the scraper idea first

[Dphariss]

Just make sure you remove the rod pipes. This is a 5/16” x 48” piece of 303 stainless (cannot be hardened) filed it and bent it and leaned and filed a cutting edge on the end other end is ground somewhat like a spade bit to remove chips which will pack in the bottom of the hole. This will enlarge a 3/8” hole. I only scrape on the side away from the lock bolt.
If you have the room below the rod hole this makes for a far more professional job than grinding the bolt down or notching it. Especially when someone else pulls the lock out of the firearm.
If you search the site for “Ramrod hole Scraper” the original post should come up.

[Dphariss]

Tapering the RR is another option many originals had pretty significant taper.

[Robby]

The front bolt partially blocking the ramrod is a fairly easy fix but you say the forward's end dips down. How is the lock placement in relation to the rest of the gun?
Robby

[rich pierce]

The front bolt partially blocking the ramrod is a fairly easy fix but you say the forward's end dips down. How is the lock placement in relation to the rest of the gun?
Robby

Bingo.
If you’re not happy with the tail of the lock and so on, your solutions look very different.
Blank or precarve? Stock profiled behind the tang?

[Rob]

Thank you all! You’re comments and helpful advice is  much appreciated. I believe scrapping the ramrod channel and some file work on the bolt is the answer..  thanks again