A big Bark inclusion

[Mike Brooks]

Yep Donnie, same methods I used in class and described here as well.

[Frozen Run]

Thank you. The Lehigh one is interesting, I feel like you could have made those patches invisible if you wanted to even with such a light stain but intentionally made them visible so that they look like a period patch job? I've seen a number of pictures of highly decorated originals were there is a plain as day square patch on it. It seems like people weren't as particular as they are today about stuff? They just did a competent repair the best they could and moved on with their day.     

[Craig Wilcox]

Again, I have to agree with Mike!

"I wouldn't listen to anything that idiot Brooks says when it comes to patching wood, he's a complete moron. "

But, he is good at being a "moron".  We can also call him "Patchmaster"!

[Mike Brooks]

Thank you. The Lehigh one is interesting, I feel like you could have made those patches invisible if you wanted to even with such a light stain but intentionally made them visible so that they look like a period patch job? I've seen a number of pictures of highly decorated originals were there is a plain as day square patch on it. It seems like people weren't as particular as they are today about stuff? They just did a competent repair the best they could and moved on with their day.   

I have always found walnut easier to patch. The grain is easier to orient I think.  I could have hidden those patches on the Lehigh but I had a particular color I was after and it didn't do the patches any favor. I could have just blackened the whole area and they would have disappeared. But, I had built the gun for myself and the patches don't bother me. Of course I ended up selling it as soon as it was done.

[Joey R]

Not seeing them on the finished rifle. Yep,that’s the ticket!

[Dphariss]

I'm sitting on the fence on this one.  I like epoxy for the sheer ease and competency it offers, but it's hard to beat a well executed wood patch.

About the "Total Boat" epoxy approach: I used it once where I needed a deep fill in some punky wood.  The stuff is runny as all get out and it certainly penetrated.  No doubt about that.  It generated incredible heat however, enough to make the wood smoke for 5-10 minutes, and be too hot to handle.  I think it's good stuff, just a bit scarier than, say Acraglas.  In my old age I'm trying to dial down the drama.

I would simply get some original acraglas. Remove all parts from the stock and check all inlets and screw holes for potential leaks.  Set the stock so the mouth of the inclusion is level in all respects. Carefully cover the area around the hole with duct tape to keep any spills from getting on the wood.

Mix the acraglas very carefully according to the amounts to be used. Mix for at least a minute. I usually heat it slightly when mixing.
Now pour a little in and see how the hole accepts it. There is plenty of time the epoxy its slow set. Once its within 1/4” of the top. STOP. Let the epoxy set. THEN plug the hole with maple. You can use several peices and even leave the dark line so the fix looks like a wood flaw . If you have a matching piece of wood you can do a little cutting a glue a piece OVER the hole down deep enough to allow shaping. If the peice is right (but its tough with the contours at that spot) it will nearly disappear.  But this is tough to do and needs a lot of trials and checking of grain and color.  Here is a photo of a patch done in an the approximate area. The worst one I had I was able to pour full of acraglas and cover with a thumbpiece and it was REALLY big. The one I did last month was a pair of ugly pin knots I covered with a cheekpiece star. The placement was lucky with those two.

[LynnC]

I appreciate the worm damage repair info. Im working on a cherry stocked smoothbore stock that looked pretty sound when i started with the plank. I inlet the barrel and cut the RR channel just fine but when i profiled the stock it exposed a lot of worm damage at the muzzle, just above the lock and an area on the right side at the butt plate.  All that on top of the punky knot that appeared on top of the wrist. What a learning experience. What fun!!!

The gun’s name is fast becoming “Ole Patch” 😂

I appreciate everyones knowledge to help me salvage this stock....

[Mike Brooks]

If I had to do that Lehigh gun of many patches, I'd probably cut out the whole area and put in a single patch. Also, if you make irregular shaped patches the eye tends not to see them as easy. The square ends on the rectangles catch the eye. The walnut gun I did with irregular shaped patches

[LynnC]

Thanks for the irregular patch tip Mike

[kutter]

I fill a hole or damaged area in the wood with a wood patch. I epoxy the patch into place. Epoxy doesn't move around like some of the other glues do and show a glue line after a while.
I'm not really concerned about the grain lines of the patch I put in though I used to do my best to match it to the original wood as well as the color.

These last points don't often come out as well as I expect them to inspite of careful sifting through scrap pieces for the perfect selection for the patch.
So now, not as much time is spent doing that.

What I do after the patch is glued into place, trimmed and sanded to the original contour is to then go ahead and stain the entire stock & patch together.
Again, this sometimes results in a gross mismatch of color. No matter. The next step is the cover up.

I apply a thin coat of sealer over the patched area. Simple shellac is good.
On this I now 'paint' in the necessary grain and background color(s) to match the patch to the surrounding wood.
It doesn't take all that long with some experience.
Plain artists acrylic paints are used. Very thin layers,,a 'wash' as some artists call it so there is not any build up .
Let it dry. The color will be somewhat subdued from what the surrounding orig wood appears.
That will perk up in the next step.

That is to apply another coating of sealer over the colors.
Now they will match the surrounding area.

A bit of very light buffing with 0000 steel wool to match the surfaces in.

Then go right ahead and apply what ever finish I had planned to use on the stock going right over the patched area as well.
This is all useless w/o pics,,so....

Taking a chance at being shunned for life,,I will post these 2 pics,,
One shows the very poorly matching wood patch epoxied in place.
The other pic shows the same area after being gone over with the above technique.
The final sealer coat had not yet been applied over the colors in the second pic. But you get the idea of what can be done to blend in a wood patch,,or actually just a blob of epoxy patch.

[frankie]

I have always went by a rule of thumb on something that can't be hidden- then show it. I would mix acral glass with half black and half dark brown artist (oil paint) and fill the hole. I would first cap the other inside of the hole if it goes all the way through with a modeling clay.

[Mike Brooks]

That's a very nice repair on the shotgun above

[Eric Krewson]

I don't like making and fitting patches but I really like covering them up with dyes and an artists brush.

The stock is red maple, the only scrap I had was plain sugar maple with no curl, this is for a misplace pre-inlet lock mortise.



I got the stain to match by using aqufortis first then diluted leather dye on the patch and full strength on the faux curl.

[mountainman]

Thanks guys for sharing all those awesome pictures of patch work. Mike that was quite some quilt work on that Lehigh, it's amazing you can't hardly see it.

[mountainman]

With some color this should add character, I wanted to replace the hole with a knot, so I found a well dried maple branch with the right hardness and not green, and being the right diameter, so I cleaned it and inletted into wood, but first I cleaned out the inclusion by drilling it out, I then stained the surrounding area and peg, I chose to use Total Boat Flex Epoxy Amber, I also added some more darker color.
So I cleaned it up and this is the results.

[mountainman]

[elkhorne]

Nice job and will look great as well as nice character when you get your finish on the rifle. Hopefully you will post photos of the finished rifle when done. Job well done! congratulations.
elkhorne

[bluenoser]

Very nice looking patch and an excellent solution to a problem.  Being end grain, the patch will be inclined to stain darker than the surrounding wood.  That can generally be controlled by dampening the patch with water prior to applying the stain - assuming water-based stain.

[Dphariss]

I think you did well. I am not much for “character”. Especially if its MY mistake. It will surely stain a different color but that can be worked around too. Such “things” are great teaching aids if you know what I mean.  You also have to remember that Acraglas is designed with wood in mind and has to right characteristics to work well with wood. I do not trust epoxies other than Acraglas and JB Quik (for some things) and some wood resin based stuff I researched and used on an Airstream trailer floor its used in repairing rotting wood in boat restoration and is a penetrator type to soak the wood and stabilize it. And it comes in large quantities.  I would not use it on a gunstock I prefer a gel from most firearms uses.

[Daryl]

I don't like making and fitting patches but I really like covering them up with dyes and an artists brush.

The stock is red maple, the only scrap I had was plain sugar maple with no curl, this is for a misplace pre-inlet lock mortise.



I got the stain to match by using aqufortis first then diluted leather dye on the patch and full strength on the faux curl.

A WONDERFUL patch job, Erik. - Amazingly.

[rich pierce]

I’ve got an original Lancaster smooth rifle with a big knot on the comb. Unusual and probably wouldn’t be used for a fancier gun, but there it is.

[mountainman]

I’ve got an original Lancaster smooth rifle with a big knot on the comb. Unusual and probably wouldn’t be used for a fancier gun, but there it is.

Yeah that's pretty cool!! Even an original has one, I wonder how many years it's been there?