Kibler SMR lock finishing

[Terry Cheek]

I have another question to ask. Should the lock of the Kibler SMR be sanded or polished before I apply Jax black? I am trying to finish as closely as possible to an original circa 1820. Any help with this is greatly appreciated. Also, I want to thank you for tolerating my inexperience.

[Scota4570]

I always finish the lock parts to remove all evidence of casting. The losk is taken apart then finished to #320 and then blended with scotch bright.  All flat areas, like the plate are made dead flat by backing the abrasive paper or using diamond laps.  Never polish near a hole without backing the sand paper.  Never use a buffing wheel. 

IF you are not comfortable taking the lock apart, let it age naturally. 

I have two recent SMR rifles.  I rust blued one lock and left the other bright.  The bright one is picking up stains and color from use.  Some guys are using heat colors on locks.  On an older 46" SMR I used cold blue, it is similar to JAX.  I imagine an original gunsmith could have done it any way he wanted.   

[Terry Cheek]

I'm okay taking the lock apart. Your advice is well taken. Thank you

[RAT]

Original locks wouldn't have any "finish" applied as we think of it today. I.E... nothing coating the surface. They would have been case hardened and either left with the case colors intact or with the colors polished off. By the 1830's it seems that leaving the case colors displayed became popular. Before 1800 they would typically be polished bright. I've seen photos of very fine English guns in auction catalogs that appear to show a dark heat blued surface.

Given our modern steels and heat treating it's probably best to polish bright and leave it like that if you're looking for an easy authentic 1820's appearance.

[Fly Navy]

On my SMR rifles I first finish with 220 or 320 grit sandpaper. Then I use Tracks Tried & True browning. I use 0000 steel wool  between coats and on the final coat will use a piece of denim for the final buff.

[mgbruch]

All exterior surfaces of the lock should be filed smooth, to take away all signs of casting.  I go down to 220 grit, followed by Scotchbrite and steel wool.  This is a Chambers Late Ketland lock That's going on my current build.  The lock isn't finished yet, but is ready to be inlet.  It's disappointing to see a lock put on a gun as is.  Spend some time with your files.  Sharpen up those bevels, and give some definition to the piece.  The American Longrifle is a work of art, and so is the lock.  The lock is also one of the most looked at parts of the gun, and should receive the appropriate amount of attention.  My two cents.

[Terry Cheek]

Well said and Thank you.

[Daryl]

Nice job. I need to get this one finished, at some point. Some might also think the stock needs to be re-finished.

[Terry Cheek]

Daryl, what’s wrong with it?

Terry

[Stoner creek]

Nice job. I need to get this one finished, at some point. Some might also think the stock needs to be re-finished.

That Beck guard really looks nice on that piece.

[RAT]

One more thing... a lot of people seem to overlook polishing the springs. I think it looks odd when a lock is all polished bright and the frizzen spring is still as dark as it came out of the package. You're not going to mess up the spring temper by polishing the color off and making it bright. The photo posted by mgbruch illustrates exactly what a lock should look like.

Also... engraving was typical... and no engraving was not typical. And the engraving pretty much followed standard forms.

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

Good eye Wayne.  It's a David Keck hardware set...nice soft yellow brass.  Daryl's lock wasn't polished per se: the cast surface was burnished.  And I agree, it needs to be polished.  He'll have to part with it for a week so I can get it done.

[HighUintas]

I'm mostly done polishing my first lock. I used a combination of needle files (non were smooth cut) and wet/dry paper. After the files, I did 80, then 180, 280, then 400 grit. Man... It took a long time! I used mineral oil (Hoppes because I have it and tend to use it for wet/dry paper) on the wet/dry paper up until last night when I tried water.

I've got a question that will hopefully help Terry if he plans to use wet/dry paper. Does using water or oil on the paper seem to work better or are they about the same? I thought it seemed like water might be more efficient

[Terry Cheek]

Thank you HighUnitas, I am open to all instruction from experienced builders.

[Daryl]

My only fault with the guard is it's too short in the body for my right mallet.
Too, the finish is badly worn and faded. LOL It does look somewhat used.

[Hunterdude]

 (Quote)
I've got a question that will hopefully help Terry if he plans to use wet/dry paper. Does using water or oil on the paper seem to work better or are they about the same? I thought it seemed like water might be more efficient
[/quote]

I grew up with my father being an auto body repair man so we always had the black color wet/dry sandpaper, I like it. It seems the abrasive sticks around longer than lower grades of woodworking sandpaper.
   Water is the traditional liquid, the purpose is to flush the abrasive clean so the paper does not get plugged and continues to cut. Any Very light oil also works well but is more messy in my opinion. If you use oil, the closer it is to water consistentcy the better. Mineral spirits is popular in Mold polish shops, it performs well but can give headache and irritate skin. A thicker oil can work in a pinch but will cause the metal particals to cling rather than flush. I recommend water, flush often and just dry your metal parts completely after sanding to prevent rust.