Southern Mountain Rifle finish.

[Big_Rubber_Duck]

Hello all! I am looking at getting a Kibler SMR kit soon and have been thinking ahead on how I would like to finish the rifle. I'm set on keeping it fairly plain with a walnut stock, and maaaaaybe a metal nosecap, but I am having trouble deciding on the finish of the metal parts.
From what I've read and seen, it appears that browning is fairly common on historic guns, but I've also seen that there are many different amounts/levels that one can brown their metal parts. I'm mainly curious in what others have done for their SMRs and perhaps what finishes other than browning people have done. Any pictures would be much appreciated.

[RAT]

I only own 1 original southern rifle. Close examination indicates no finish at all on the metal parts. Today it displays a gray-brown color, but that's just patina from age. My dad's old tools have the same color. Surface prep is what I would describe as "polish over file marks". For example, the trigger guard is polished smooth, but no attempt was made to remove every single file scratch.

[Steve_Rose]

I finished one of Mr. Kibler’s SMRs with a kinda gray/natural patina on the metal and added a poured pewter nose cap (just one idea for you)

[Tacitus]

My SMR also has a walnut stock. I finished the metal with JAX Brass Black and then rubbed it back to a grey finish with 0000 steel wool. It should take on a nice patina with age and use.

[mgbruch]

Here are two SMR's I built from a blank.  The top is my personal gun, and the iron was left white.  I finished it with 220 grit paper, followed by Scotchbrite and steel wool.  After three plus years it has taken on a nice mellow satin look that I quite like.

The bottom is a gun that I just put my name on yesterday.  I gave the metal a nice medium grey finish with a brass darkening solution.  It's not traditional, but it can really set a piece off.

Traditional finished are in the white, browned, rust blued, or charcoal blued.  The finish will depend on how you want your new gun to look.  If you want your new gun to look like a new gun, then leave the finish as new.  If not, then take it back until you're happy with it.

[Hungry Horse]

 I believe browning of metal is often way over done. The original formulas I’ve used, and seen used, alway refer to the brown as a plum brown, and as a clear semi-translucent finish. Most browning jobs today are dark, and anything but translucent.
 I have examined parts that are black, and assume these hand forged parts are coated with linseed oil after forging. That would be the way an old time blacksmith would likely prevent rusting. I have not seen this finish on a barrel. All black, or dark grey colors on a barrel that I’ve seen, seems to come from a rust blueing process.

  Hungry Horse

[Scota4570]

I did each SMR a little different.  The first was cold blue on the barrel and the small metal parts were heated in the BBQ and dunked in canola oil.  I left the lock white but polished to #320 grit and blended with maroon scotchbrite. 

The last one was all slow rust brown.  I like that one. 

IF I do another I would slow rust the barrel.  The lock would be done bright.  A bright lock picks up stains, which I don't mind.  The remaining parts parts would be heated to around 900* and dunked in canola.  That makes a blue black color. 

You can not do it wrong if you take the time to properly polish the parts.