Steel Ramrod for a Kibler SMR

[fishdfly]

I bought a Kibler SMR 40 Cal at the show in Alabama and really like the rifle.

I took it to a shoot this past week and found out it is really hard to hold offhand in the wind.  I need to add some weight to the rifle and would like to add a steel ram rod.  One to add weight to see if that helps and second to have a steel ram rod in the thimbles to hunt with.  I worry about breaking the wood one.

Who would be a good person/place to contact to make a steel ram rod and threaded one one end?

Thanks

fdf

[Hungry Horse]

 A couple of things to think over. A .40 caliber doesn’t buck wind well on its best day. And, a 5/16” steel ramrod isn’t going to add that much wait. But that steel ramrod will be the very devil to keep in your ramrod pipes without some sort of a spring clip.
 I suggest either not shooting in the wind, or practicing shooting in the wind, until you get better at it.

  Hungry Horse

[Daniel Coats]

A steel ramrod can damage your rifle anywhere it touches.

[smylee grouch]

Make a lead Bracelet

[Dennis Glazener]

A heavy lead nose cap and the hickory ramrod probably would be more weight than a steel ramrod that small and certainly easier on your barrel when cleaning.
Dennis

[fishdfly]

Thank you all for the help and insight, that is what I needed.

fdf 

[Metequa]

Brass rod from October Country may work for you...

https://www.octobercountry.com/brass-undergun-rod-5-16-37-48/

[Scota4570]

The wood rod supplied with the rifle need to be tapered to fit the stock.   A non tapered metal rod will not go all the way into the stock.  Drilling out the stock can go badly.

[fishdfly]

Thanks for the information, I will leave things alone, that is the best solution.

[MuskratMike]

I have shot my .40 caliber Kibler for several years now. I don't track how many shots I have taken with it but it must be 800 or more at the range, hunting, and club trail walks. I have only broke 1 ramrod and it was totally my fault (didn't take short enough strokes). At the range I often use my range rod instead of the wood ramrod (just to save wear and tear). As to the barrel waving around my suggestion is practice, practice and more practice. Unless you are shooting for load development shoot everything you can offhand and forget the bench.

[scottmc]

Fly...I'll be the oddball of this conversation.  I did exactly what you are inquiring about on my Gillespie .38 using a 5/16" steel rod.  A friend tapered the one end about 6" so it slid under the front lock bolt.  I didn't need it tapped on the end since I use a range rod when in competition.  It's  a little snug due to my less than perfect inlet of the front pipe but it goes in.  Adds good weight to the gun for competition shooting.  If u can find someone to taper the end, it's worth a try in my opinion.  I bought the rod at a local machine shop.

[hanshi]

For weight forward I wouldn't recommend a steel ram rod.  Steel rods are great to use for cleaning (with a muzzle guard) and will do well for loading at the range.  A .40 can still use a the same dia. wood rod as a .45; at least mine easily did.  I use the wood underbarrel rod for loading at the range, and for the bush when I hunted.  Even with the .32 I still use the wood rod.  The primary reason is that the wood rod will be used in the woods so if it doesn't work at the range it certainly won't suffice when hunting.  Those SMRs were generally intended to make use of trees in the thick forests or fired from sitting or kneeling.  Wind is the enemy of the round ball and long, unsupported rifles.  Practice in the wind and you'll find it much easier to shoot accurately out of the wind.

[MuskratMike]

A steel ramrod on any Southern Mountain rifle would be like putting lipstick on a pig and getting the additional benefit of scoring the bore.

[Tim Ault]

I’d use a brass rod instead of steel  it should be slightly heavier than steel anyways

[alacran]

I have been making ramrods for my rifles with a steel core for about 20 years now. No, I don't drill the dowel, that's the first question people ask me.
It takes basic joinery skills; a jointer and a table saw make the process easier. But it all could be done with hand tools.
Here are three.

I need to make another on for a .40 I am building. If there is interest I will take photos. Easier to show than to explain.
The top one is 7/16 diameter. has 3/16 stainless rod inside. center one is 3/8th, has 1/8 rod inside bottom one is 7/16 has 1/8 rod inside.
Tips are drilled and pinned through the steel.

[Daryl]

I use a plastic coated springy steel rod in the .36, made by Kleenbore, I think, no damage. It is used for cleaning and loading when shooting at the range.
  use a 5/16" stainless rod for cleaning and sometimes when range shooting the .50 Beck. No muzzle protector, no damage - yet. Maybe only 1,000 rounds with that. I use a 3/8" drill-rod for loading and cleaning me .69 with the rifles usage rod used only on trains. No discernable damage  no muzzle protector. Likely used for loading only 3,000 times though but used for cleaning EVERY time since 1986. Go figure! It's my Match rifle.

[alacran]

Daryl, don't you use your thumb and index finger to guide your rod, in order to protect the barrel?

[Daryl]

I use a clenched fist on the rod's handle and seat the ball. I do not guide it with anything.
I use rod guides in my small bore vermin rifles when cleaning them from the breech.