I don't understand why the base of the horn is being turned on a lathe. What's being done there, and how is the horn held in a tapered plug?
Hi Daniel,
After the horn comes out of the oil and is formed on the tapered wood plug, the interior is round but the exterior isn't because of a wall that varies in thickness. The base-turning step is to produce a uniform wall thickness. The tapered wood plug serves two purposes. It forms the horn but also has the opposite end turned to fit on the 3-jar chuck. With the horn still attached to the plug, it was installed on the chuck and turned very slowly. Art guesses about 100 rpm. The cutting stopped as soon as the tool was cutting all the way around the horn. Our goal wasn't to thin the horn, but only to get uniform walls.
The horn is held only by the friction fit on the plug. If the angle of the plug and the horn was pretty close, the horn didn't pop off. On a few the horn fell off; in that case a damp piece of paper towel was placed between the horn and the plug, and the horn was pressed on. This was a short process because very little had to be removed to get the walls even.
Turning the neck went well. Here after drilling the neck hole, we taped it with a 1/4" tap. We left the tap in the neck and chucked the tap. Then we turned the neck to a uniforn diameter to match the die used. Remember that the rpm was very slow. It took a variable speed motor to do this.
The explanation here is from a student's perspective. I hope Art will clear up anything I may have said.
Regards,
Pletch