T/C Hawken stock upgrade

[Lampro]

I have an old T/C Hawken percussion rifle that was originally a .45 caliber kit gun. Later I got a Green Mountain drop-in barrel in .50 caliber with a slow twist for round ball. Now I have purchased a T/C replacement stock from Track of The Wolf:
 https://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories/PartDetail.aspx/906/1/STK-TCH-15-M1

I want to fit the parts to this new stock. In what order should I fit the basic parts? Tang, barrel, lock, triggers, buttplate, nose cap and escutcheons? Or if the question is too broad maybe you could recommend a basic book, video or online guide?

[2 shots]

 hi, since the lock is  all ready inlet i think you would want to get the barrel lined up [ lock plate to drum]  the rest doesnt really matter about order  [ i think] those more in the know will correct me if i am wrong.

[Lampro]

Yes the stock is already inlet, including the lock but the lock does not sit flush. Should I finish inletting the lock first and then get the barrel & drum lined up with the lock plate? When I inlet the barrel should I have the tang attatched to the barrel? This is a hooked breech and I recall something about soldering or super gluing a hooked breech barrel to the tang when you inlet.

[Eric Krewson]

Do the lock first, hopefully the inlet will be in the right place, sometimes they are off, maybe a little maybe a lot. I put an L&R RPL flintlock in a TC, the stock was a percussion lock, I had to move the barrel and tang back a good bit to get the proper touch hole position. I didn't superglue the hooked breech to the barrel, I moved the hooked breech back a little at a time and checked the touch hole alignment each time until I got it right. I didn't have to change the barrel wedge pin position, I just opened one end of the underlug a little more. I did have to cut off a small piece of the under rib to move the barrel back and clear the nose cap.

[taterbug]

It's been a while since I looked at one up close, but doesn't the 'snail' for the TC percussion breech have a groove on the underside for the lock plate?  In other words, the top of the lock is flat, and not 'notched' for the snail, and the snail fits over the top of the lockplate?

Anyways, the critical thing will be getting the hammer lined up properly for the nipple.  Hopefully, the two are close enough, and there is enough wood around the lock and back end of the barrel to get proper forward or back alignment.  Also, if the lock is not inlet deep enough already, you'll have to set the lock deeper to get the notch in the bottom of the snail to align with the top of the lock.

you should have the most available wood to move behind the barrel.  This will let the barrel come further back to get front to back alignment of the nipple and hammer.  Hopefully the lock and barrel inlets have enough wood left to allow the proper location.

Basically, you will have to watch forward and back locations of barrel AND lock, and in-out location of the lock to line up with the notch, ALL at the same time.  All this to make sure the hammer will strike the nipple and cap properly. 

So you cant be inletting one part without constantly checking that the mating part(s) are still aligned. 

Oh yeah, and then there's the barrel wedge pin location like Eric mentioned.  Ouch.  sure hope all those 'preset' inlets are close enough to make it work, but there's always ways around obstacles.  Some pics would help