using Chambers Oil finish questions?

[Bigmon]

I called Chambers but they are at Kempton, so maybe someone here has an answer or two?
Firstly, I have used this once and really liked the results, but am not sure how durable a finish it gives?  Jim assured me it was as tuff as can be, but I have used the rifle a couple years and am seeing some signs of wear?  Any experiences you all have woule be welcome.
Second, a paper comes with it telling me a whole bunch of products NOT to use for clean up, etc.  But doesn't tell me what product exactly I could use?  Any one got the answer  for that.
Third, he says do not thin, but isn't it pretty common practice to thin a first coat for penetration?
Thanks in advance for any answers>
Regards to all

[john bohan]

I been using it on my last couple guns ,Ijust use permalyn sealer first,seems to work good.

[WestBranchSusquehanna]

I have used this on almost all of my guns.  Have found that it takes at least three coats to really pop.  From there only a couple of hand rubbed drops for subsequent coats and I do about 8-10 total.  For my final, I use a high quality wax and rub the $#*! out of it and it just deepens the look.  But make sure all coats are throughly dry before you add an next layer.

[smallpatch]

Flood it on, wait a few, and wipe it off. Repeat till you get the sheen you want.
Good, easy, durable finish.
If you hunt a lot, like in the rain or snow, add a couple of coats of spar varnish in the middle, and finish with a couple coats of Chambers.
I don’t use anything else.

[FALout]

I’ve used Chambers finish for years on my projects and only issue was drying since I do all my work in basement and humidity levels can be high at certain times of the year.  As for chemicals, once finished I only use water and oil for cleaning after shooting.  Even on my last project which I didn’t apply many coats of finish, it seems fine.  Maybe you could explain what you did and what your issue is in clearer terms.

[TommyG]

I have been using it for years.  It's the finish on my Isaac Berlin in another thread.  On that piece I did the first 4 coats with Waterlox, then scuff back with steel wool, apply the last 4-5 using Chambers oil, lightly applied using your finger.

[RAT]

I've used it on my last 4 rifles. As per the instructions I have...

"Do NOT thin, mix, clean brushes or applicator tools or wipe wood surfaces with products labeled as: 'Low-VOC Mineral Spirits', 'Green Mineral Spirits', 'Low-VOC Multi-purpose Solvents', or 'Low-Odor Mineral Spirits'."

"ONLY USE products labeled '100% aliphatic hydrocarbon solvent' or '100% petrolium distillates'."

It's OK to thin Chambers oil finish. You just have to use the right kind of solvent. I use 100% real turpentine. Don't use low-VOC or artificial turpentine.

I mix the oil 50/50 with turpentine for the first coat. Actually it works out to about 4 coats. I put the thinned finish on with a paint brush. I start at the muzzle and work my way back. By the time I reach the butt, the first coat has soaked in, so I immediately put on a second coat. I repeat this until the finish is no longer soaking in. It usually works out to 3-4 coats. Then I let it dry for 1-2 days until it's thoroughly dry.

Additional coats are put on full thickness with a small cotton patch and rubbed in. I don't let the finish sit on the surface. I wipe it on about a 4"-8" area with the patch and keep rubbing until it no longer seems wet. I then work on the next area. When the stock is covered, I let it set 1-2 days until dry. I keep doing this until I get what I want. It usually take 4-5 of these additional coats. I steel wool between coats.

[smallpatch]

Forgot to add….. I don’t steel wool between coats. I apply additional coats with a scotchbrite pad.