Laurel Mt Forge Browning?

[Bigmon]

I only tried LMF once years ago and it did not go well.  But I have a bottle of it and have seen lots of folks raving about it.
So, hard as it is to believe, I must have done something wrong.
Problem is I do not have the directions to go with it.  Are they one here somewhere, or maybe a tutorial?
I have always used BC Plum Brown with good results, but lots of heat, and I want to try this LMF.
Thanks for any help in advance?

[john bohan]

I think they give directions on line. All I ever did with it was add some humidity. Works good on rainey days.

[flinchrocket]

If you get the copper look, take it off with 220 grit. Just wet the metal with the solution and leave it til it rust,(overnight),then wet again . Should go fast in hot humid weather.

[Frank]

Stuff is great and almost idiot proof. Throw away your old bottle and get a new one.

[ScottH]

go to their website - here

https://www.laurelmountainforge.com/barrel_brown_inst.htm

I got decent results with it doing rust blueing on some parts, and I live where it is dry. The steamy bathroom atmosphere helped speed things along a couple times during the process.

[Bigmon]

Thanks Ya'all, I am going to give it a go. 

[mikeyfirelock]

Follow the direction exactly.     The first time I used it, I just applied it like I would any other, and didn’t work.    The first coat must be applied very sparingly, as I recall.     Follow the directions exactly and you will get a great browning job.
FWIW, I also prefer the stains to the old timey stuff.   Easy to apply….don’t fade…..a great selection of colors.

[Jim Chambers]

Problems with this product occurs mostly because of using too much of the solution.  There's enough solution in that little bottle to brown at least half a dozen barrels if used correctly.  Here's what I do: I wet a small piece of cloth with the solution, squeeze as much liquid out of the cloth as I can, and lightly wipe down the first flat of the barrel in one direction.  Repeat for each flat.  Set the barrel aside in a warm, humid area for a few hours and repeat until the barrel is browned to your satisfaction.  For a smooth brown finish I card the barrel with a fine wire wheel or 0000 steel wool.  For a textured finish don't card between coats.  Under ideal conditions (90% humidity and 90 degrees temp) I have browned a barrel in as little as one day.

[davec2]

Having the right humidity and temperature is a HUGE help in getting a great finish and quickly.  Living in Southern California, the heat isn't usually a problem but we have little to no humidity most of the year.  This old post of mine covers how I got around that...

https://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=21382.msg203054#msg203054

[Eric Krewson]

When I overlap a pass with my piece of rag and get the copper color I ignore it, I have found it will disappear with subsequent coats and blend in perfectly. I do have a humid environment where I live, the results I get may not be consistent with the same procedure in a dry environment.

[smallpatch]

I use a damp box here in AZ. Single digit humidity.
I built a box, 1’x1’x4’. Lay some wet rags in the bottom for humidity……works like a charm.

[83nubnEC]

I have used it on 2 of the guns I have built with excellent results. As stated above, use it sparingly and try to make one continuous pass the length of the barrel flats for each coating. I place my barrels and parts hanging in the shower with a pail of hot water on the floor and close it up. Leave several hours or overnight, inspecting occasionally for color and adding hot water as needed. Light 0000 steel wool buffing between coats until you get the color you are looking for.

[Bigmon]

Thanks again to ya'all.  I did a couple small parts and all turned out just fine.  Much easier that the Plum Brown.
I did get some copper color at first but just kept doing coats and it finally all went to a dark brown, near black which is what I am shooting.
As I said, I always had good results with Plum Brown but always had to use heat and basically bake it on.  I got a great durable finish, but lots of work.
Thanks again

[jgraham1]

Problems with this product occurs mostly because of using too much of the solution.  There's enough solution in that little bottle to brown at least half a dozen barrels if used correctly.  Here's what I do: I wet a small piece of cloth with the solution, squeeze as much liquid out of the cloth as I can, and lightly wipe down the first flat of the barrel in one direction.  Repeat for each flat.  Set the barrel aside in a warm, humid area for a few hours and repeat until the barrel is browned to your satisfaction.  For a smooth brown finish I card the barrel with a fine wire wheel or 0000 steel wool.  For a textured finish don't card between coats.  Under ideal conditions (90% humidity and 90 degrees temp) I have browned a barrel in as little as one day.

I have followed these directions also with great results.

Jerry

[adingus]

I used it for the first time a few weeks ago and everything came out well. It was very humid when I did it, like 70%+. It will looks like $#*& during your first couple coats, this is expected! If you find you've missed a spot just make sure to hit it during your next coat. I found I could dab the solution into corners and tough spots without getting the copper color. The copper color comes from using too much solution or rubbing it in. Just wet the surface of the metal with broad stokes as directed. I did 5 costs and it became a nice deep brown.

[flehto]

The "secret" to using LMF is apply sparingly.....but wet enough so that light pressure is used. On the 46" bbls, the first wetting of LMF onto the swab is only wet enough for half the length of the bbl flat and care is taken to not over wet the swab  for the other half of the bbl flat. Have found that the approx. halfway point of application is varied and there's no evidence on the finished bbl. I use a cadboard box as a "wet box" w/  wet rags on the bottom.
 Denim is used to card  after every coat  and use 0000 steel wool for a final rub.

After the last coat, the  rust is neutralized  w/ ammonia......Fred 

[Rawhide Rick]

That’s odd that everyone says use it sparingly.  I was advised by Mr Kibler not to rub it on as that would produce the copper result.  He said dab it on.  I saturate a cotton make up pad that I scavenge from the wife’s supplies.  Usually have a drip pan under the barrel.  2 or 3 coats,  a little humidity, and knocking it back with a piece of denim in between.  I’ve done 2 barrels this way.  But you use a lot of the browning solution.

[Bigmon]

Thanks to all for putting me on to the LMF browning. I really like how simole it is to use, and the good coverage results.
BUT, maybe now a problem.
After I was satisfied that everything is well browned, I took all the parts and carded with 0000 steel wool and scotchbrite.  Still looked great.
Then I crubbed every part, WELL, with a slurry of baking soda and water, and used a stiff toothbrush like parts cleaning brush.  All over and very well.
Then rinsed with HOT water from my 100ft+ garden hose laying in the sun.
Then I dried it all and let it set in the hot sun till bone dry, and it was even hot to the touch from the sun.
Then I wiped it all down generous amount of WD40.  Then I used full stnthetic motor oil.
Finally paste wax and assembly.
Since then a coat or two of beeswax polish.
Looks great, but today I picked it up and my hands are covered in red rust!
Do I just need more oil or should I maybe take it all apart and rescrub with soda?
Man that makes alot more work?

[smallpatch]

Like Mr Chambers said….. a bottle should last for at least 6 barrels. Use sparingly.

[akroguy]

I tried it and no bueno for me.  It's dry here in NM and I don't have the patience to monkey around with humidity chambers and hoping it works.

BC Plum Brown is awesome. The resultant color is beautiful and it's done quickly with a propane torch and wool daubers to wipe it on.  I used it on my Kibler Colonial and it's going on the next Lancaster build.  Oh, the Plum Brown I used had been sitting in the garage for MANY years.  Didn't matter.  Still worked!

[Eric Krewson]

After rust is normal, I had none of it on my first build and tons of it after my third build, it scared me so much I asked the same question as Bigmon did here. Everyone said the rust would stop over time and it did a month later. I think ammonia may be a better neutralizing agent than baking soda, I gave my continually rusting barrel multiple coatings of both to no avail.

Just keep carding and oiling, you could clean the barrel with a solvent to get rid of any oils and wipe it down with ammonia, rinse well and oil it up again, I like 30W motor oil.

This was 3 weeks after I neutralized for the last time;



In spite of my fears the end result was really nice.