Cock removing clamp by Robert Boggs

[Ron Scott]

Robert Boggs sent me his version of a cock removing clamp, an item I suggested he might try manufacturing.  It has hardened and polished jaws, with a very smooth thread. The workshop I taught this week put it through a fair amount of trial and it works extremely well. The thin edge of the jaws enables it to fit between the lock plate and cock nicely. The turning  rod applies plenty of power.  This one is staying in my shop. I suspect Robert will post availability and pricing.

[Carl Young]

That's neat Ron, thanks for posting this. I like that the jaws are attached with screws, so that the user could chose to make a set of jaws out of brass, plastic etc. for those who might be concerned with scratching an original, or jaws with a less acute angle on the face to make a more gentle removal.

Regards,
Carl

[smart dog]

Hi Ron,
L&R made a similar tool years ago.  I have one and it works very well.  The L&R tool required the jaws to be thinned a little.

dave

[Frank]

I would definitely buy one of these

[Robert B]

Thanks for posting Ron.  I have posted in the Items for Sale forum some specifics. 

[Jim Kibler]

Sorry for being a negative Nelly, but I wouldn’t recommend using these on our locks.  We fit the cock to the tumbler tightly and I’m pretty sure these would cause damage to either the plate or cock.
They may work well on other locks, though.

Jim

[Frank]

Sorry for being a negative Nelly, but I wouldn’t recommend using these on our locks.  We fit the cock to the tumbler tightly and I’m pretty sure these would cause damage to either the plate or cock.
They may work well on other locks, though.

Jim

Thank you for your input Jim,

[Old Time Hunter]

Sorry for being a negative Nelly, but I wouldn’t recommend using these on our locks.  We fit the cock to the tumbler tightly and I’m pretty sure these would cause damage to either the plate or cock.
They may work well on other locks, though.

Jim

Maybe I`m missing something here?  Almost "EVERY" commercially made lock that I have taken apart in the last 40 years had , the cock very tightly fitted to the tumbler shaft! So tight that they required substantial force to remove them. Jim, is there something about the fitment of your locks that makes the cock to tumbler shaft fitment "unique" . If it is tighter than the ones I have dealt with I would be reluctant to use much more force than I have had to on some other locks.    Also , if you don`t recommend this puller for your locks what DO you recommend ?  Thanks

[Stoner creek]

 I use a punch to separate the tumbler from the cock. Either a small one that fits loosely inside the cock screw hole and doesn’t booger the female threads or one that fits over the tumbler without coming in contact with the cock. A couple of licks with a small hammer and she’s out.
 Please understand that I’m not dissing the other tool, rather simply stating my way of doing this.

[P.W.Berkuta]

This cock removal tool is FANCY and WELL made . It maybe what some are looking for that just want to remove the cock without disassembling the lock completely. As for me I will most likely be disassembling the lock to remove the cock. As for the "screw in the tumbler hole" method I did that just once and broke the tumbler cock shaft - never again . I made up a square punch that fits the tumbler cock shaft and use a small hammer to knock out the cock. Cost = zero - the punch is made out of scrap metal from my scrap metal bin. Have a look at what Jim Chambers has to say about removing a cock from a Chambers lock.

[Jim Kibler]

Sorry for being a negative Nelly, but I wouldn’t recommend using these on our locks.  We fit the cock to the tumbler tightly and I’m pretty sure these would cause damage to either the plate or cock.
They may work well on other locks, though.

Jim

Maybe I`m missing something here?  Almost "EVERY" commercially made lock that I have taken apart in the last 40 years had , the cock very tightly fitted to the tumbler shaft! So tight that they required substantial force to remove them. Jim, is there something about the fitment of your locks that makes the cock to tumbler shaft fitment "unique" . If it is tighter than the ones I have dealt with I would be reluctant to use much more force than I have had to on some other locks.    Also , if you don`t recommend this puller for your locks what DO you recommend ?  Thanks

We put a 2 degree per side taper on the square tumbler shaft and the cock has a corresponding shape.  The cock is then pressed on with a small arbor press.  The resulting fit is very close and tight.  Absolutely no chance of the cock working loose.  The only drawback of this is that it takes a pretty good wrap with a hammer and square punch to break it free.  These are significantly tighter than other commercial locks I've experienced.  I would be pretty sure this tool would damage the lock if trying to use it on our locks.

Knocking the tumbler from the cock using a square punch over a vise is standard procedure and works very well.  I wouldn't suggest using a pin punch in the threaded hole either.  Not a good idea... 

Jim

[Old Time Hunter]

Jim , Thank you for your explanation! That makes sense.

[Robert B]

When I tested this tool I used a new never disassembled CNC machined Jim Kibler lock.  The tool removed the cock with minimal force and with no damage to lock or plate.  The breaker bar was not used just the Allen key.

Any tool can be misused and this one is no exception.  If the jaws are not aligned properly between cock and plate it certainly could cause damage.  At least on this fine lock it worked correctly.

Robert Boggs

[Jim Kibler]

Well, there you go!  That is the way to find out.  I stand corrected.  Thanks Robert.

Jim

[smart dog]

Hi,
I've used my version made by L&R (they don't make it anymore) a lot.  On a round-faced lock, as long as you make sure  the jaws are not digging into the raised area on the plate under the cock, it works just great even on Kibler locks.  When done carefully, it won't mar a blued or browned finish on the lock except sometimes directly under the cock.   However, the limiting factor is the amount of space between the cock and plate.  If the cock fits very close to the plate, you may have trouble slipping the jaws under the cock.  That is why I had to thin the jaws on the L&R tool.  They left the jaws too thick.  Robert's machined jaws look to be far better than the cast ones on the L&R and should work very well. When removing a flint cock, I first try the my removal tool.  If the cock fit is too close to the plate, I use a punch and hammer to tap the tumbler out.  If you do that and suspend the lock plate between jaws of a vise, put a rag, towel, or carpet remnant between the jaws to catch the tumbler if it falls.  I have a piece of carpet that is a little stiff and holds itself nicely between the vise jaws.

dave

dave

[t.caster]

Hmmm, I was thinking this would be made similar to a gear puller.

[bigmac]

How do I order one?

[sdilts]

Bigmac,
You can send a PM to Robert B. He'll take care of you.

[Bob Roller]

This tool is obviously made by someone who has more than a passing knowledge of machine tools and screw threads and I wish I had thought of it.I hope he sells a million of them.
Bob Roller